Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Just 30 looks formed Rei Kawakubo’s latest Comme des Garcons collection. Structured, deconstructed and tied up outfits that looked rather disturbing the longer you looked at them. The white wigs, the chains, the pregnant bellies (a few of them cracked open like cartoon eggs). Prints came in the form of red rose and the Comme des Garcon logo print. Combined with the heavy woolen suits and coats this was hardly a spring/summer collection. But then again does Kawakubo ever really keep the seasons in mind? She doesn’t even design clothes with the sole purpose of them being wearable or worn. Yet she did do something different here. With Tom Waits from the speakers we all felt Kawakubo’s struggle, her “fumbling around the dark” as she put it herself. Tired of the idea of having to come up with something “new” every season the designer presented this “quiet, serene and internal” collection. A perfect mini show to break through old patterns.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Unisex or should we say genderless fashion is probably one of the biggest overall trends this season. And it’s not just a trend like you’d want to wear ruffles or socks in sandals, it’s more like a movement, a new way of dressing. Haider Ackermann too sent out a bunch of looks that could be worn by the guys and the girls. It was actually just the one dress, worn by Fatou Jobe, that was truly a womenswear look. All the other designs could apply to anyone who might want to pick up on a certain style. Like the houndstooth trousers, the roomy blouses, the colored slim fit suits, the long printed jackets, the pajama like tops and robes. Black boots for the fresh faced guys and girls and no fuss in the shape of make-up, jewelry and accessories. Just the full focus on perfectly tailored clothes as part of a collection that felt fresh and casual.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

It was hardly recognizable as a Celine show, but Hedi Slimane sure had us on the edges of our seats. His Paris La Nuit collection mostly felt like a line-up of clubnight outfits. Put all the models in one club and you’d have the best dressed crowd. The girls wore super short sparkly dresses, the guys sported skinny pants and cool jackets. It looked sexy, it felt young. But as young and hip as it looked Slimane didn’t go for the easy youngster formula of sneakers, joggers and hoodies. Instead he showed just how even the cool kids can pull of tailored looks without looking older than there age.
Even though their was a clear contrast between the menswear and the womenswear looks Hedi stated all menswear looks were unisex: “The entire wardrobe worn by the male models is unisex, and therefore will also be available for women.” Interesting..
The collection truly was filled with showstoppers and skimpy party outfits, yet it lacked Celine’s signature. This was a Slimane show that felt very much like any of the Saint Laurent shows of the past few seasons. It will sell very well, no doubt about it. Yet the Celine costumer who’s into beautifully made, well tailored, feminine, minimal, classic pieces will have to start shopping elsewhere.

Lemaire Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

The guys and girls on Lemaire’s runway looked confident and fresh in the designer’s monochrome looks. Everyday pieces with just the right edge and chicness. Like a chocolate brown colored pants and a shirt (menswear). Or the sand colored pants, shirts and coat, worn with a fanny pack and black leather boots (womenswear). Lots of monochrome layering, lots of fabric and straps around cuffs, waist and ankles gave the collection a utility touch. Black paint spatters formed a print on a few of the white looks. A pastel yellow dress/coat looked as desirable as it looked comfy. Lace-up details at calf length added a slight touch of sexiness to the everyday looks. For next season Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran might try to excite us just a little more. They need to convince us it’s Lemaire and only Leimaire who can hook us up with monochrome overalls, stains spot polka dot prints and lace up trousers.

Chloé Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

We haven’t seen this many prints at Chloé in a while. Especially the mix of multiple scarf prints which had an Etro touch to them, felt different. And apart from the prints the collection was high on accessories too. Like the statement sculptural earrings, the necklaces, the rings, the cuffs and the rope belts the wavy haired models wore. Gem stones attached to the clothes made up for true show stoppers too. Not to mention the bags (Chloé slagship), which seemed quite formal compared to the loose, effortless style of the clothing. The looks felt slightly hippie inspired. Rianne van Rompaey opened the show in a one shouldered satin dress with a flared sleeve and a hip belt with a long printed scarf (sarong inspired) attached to it. Marte Mei van Haaster sported loose printed pants, a printed cropped top and a beige colored bold blazer. Rebecca Leigh Longendyke sported a ceramic printed skirt with frayed ends and a logo T-shirt, which is rare for a brand like Chloé. A selection of delicate plisse numbers formed the finale of an effortless collection. And now just like Natacha Ramsay-Levi we want to book a trip to Ibiza or Morrocco, or both!

Off-White Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

“Track and Field” is the name of Virgil Abloh’s latest Off-White collection. And it couldn’t have been more literal. The catwalk was a street transformed into a running track, a scoreboard above it displayed who was on the runway when as well as their countries of origin. Walking the show were not just familiar faces like Kaia and Kendall, but real athletes too. Like sprinter English Gardner (USA), heptathlete Katarina Johnson-Thompson (UK) or high jumper Cecilia Yeung (HK). They sported Abloh’s famous athleisure looks. Looks which this time more than ever formed a bridge between two contradicting clothing styles. Outfit #19 being the ultimate mix of sports & dressed up; a T-shirt with Nike logo’s sported with a larger than life white and yellow tulle skirt.
Sports & Chic came out in a pair of denim shorts and a velvet top and a pair of velvet pants with a denim jacket. In black sport leggings paired with a long lace skirt on top of it. In white sport leggings with a long floor sweeping gown over it. In a suit jacket that had “OFF” printed onto it in neon letters. A few looks were really just sporty as the finale of snake prints looks wasn’t necessarily sporty nor chic. It did make a bold statement.
Footwear came in the shape of ballet inspired shoes and Abloh’s freshly designed Nike running shoes, the Waffle Racer which look more like a shoe sample.
With 48 looks it wasn’t an extremely big collection, but still it was a lot to take in.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Fresh, grown up, colourful, sophisticated; just a few words to describe what happened at Dries van Noten on Wednesday. His collection for SS2019 was enthusiastically received by the fashion critics, mainly because of the Belgium designer’s focus on his own target group. Dries van Noten isn’t trying to aim at a younger audience (millennials) like most of the big brands nowadays. He is just staying true to his own signature and the costumer he has always had in mind; intelligent 30+ women with good taste. For next summer he imagined those women rocking loose pants, comfy dresses worn over midi skirts, overalls and sleeveless jackets. Like you’d expect from Dries van Noten the color palette with shades of yellow, blue, khaki and turquoise combined with black and white was exquisite. The silhouette/fit super comfy, with utility touches (large, multiple pockets) here and there. Floral prints, striped patterns (even on the shoes) and touches of fur added an extra fun factor. A lott of fabric was used on some of the folded/tied designs, like the blue maxi dress Rebecca Leigh Longendyke sported. A lot of fabric in the looks in general. Dries van Noten isn’t one to state the obvious sexy. When it comes to his well dressed clientele sexiness can be in the smallest details, like an off shoulder top, a sheer dress or an ankle in one of his perfect open summer shoes.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

If only we could step inside and feel the vibe, hear the music and see everyone’s outfits. Le Palace in Paris, a 70s/80s infamous nightclub in Montmartre where Mick Jagger, Karl Lagerfeld and Andy Warhol used to come, was the source of inspiration for Alessandro Michele’s SS2019 collection. And by the looks of tonight it was a club like no others… The dresscode was a perfect mix of party and come as you are. As all models were dressed quite bizarrely, yet acted most careless. They rocked their lurex dresses, harlequin checks pants, strawberry prints, leather suits, velvet jackets and faux fur coats like it was nobody’s business. Gucci’s GG here and there as well as the brand’s checked print. Ruffles de luxe (Ellia Sophia) and the most pronounced shoulders (Katea Gramma). Sunglasses were larger than life (Unia Pakhomova) – a few nerdy glasses here and there too, velvet hats came in extremely thick varations (Petra Koubkova). Chunky necklaces and bracelets, little Swarovski crowns and a few quite sexual accessories (as seen on Paul Hendrik Piho) in the mix. No matter their festive outings models appeared unimpressed/unbothered (or just worn out and numb from all the partying?). Halfway the show Jane Birkin sang us all a song. “Baby Alone in Babylone”, from the namesake album she released in 1983, and it took us all back to the eighties. Traveling back in time might still not be an option Michele brought us close to what it must have felt like back in the days. The ghosts of stars of Le Palace resurrected with just a hint of fantasy, sex. And it made watching a Gucci show in Paris feel oh so natural.

Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2019

Modern female dancers on stage formed the backdrop of today’s Dior collection presentation. Dressed in neutral shaded bodysuits they perfectly blended in with the SS2019 collection of powder hues and earthy tones. And while we’re discussing the show’s theme the clothes seemed like endless variations to ballets costumes. Even the nude footwear was very much ballet inspired. “I wanted to speak about dance with a different point of view. I think that dance and fashion are very close, for they both speak about the body”, Maria Grazia Chiuri stated. And she’s right. Clothes might say something about fashion taste, they might even speak about political issues, but they surely also always portray a certain image of one’s body. Those slender model bodies were perfectly visible in body tight tops and plisse skirts, in draped nude colored dresses, in tailored suit jackets and macramé creations. Almost all looks were worn with a small, delicate and feminine waist belt to accentuate the female body. Some had the CD logo on them as a little branded extra. The logo popped up on bags and bag straps too, but gone were the slogan/logo T-shirts that spread the feminism message so loudly over the last few seasons. Floral wallpaper prints looked dreamy and those handmade macramé details seemed like a lot of work. A structured tulle gown formed the finale piece, a pale yet confident ballet bride on a runway filled with rose petals.

Highlights Milan Fashion Week SS2019

Two major Italian brands, Gucci and Bottega Veneta were not on the official Milan Fashion Week schedule. Yet Italy’s fashion capital still had lots of exciting things to offer. Wonder what trends you’ll be rocking next summer? From head wraps to biker shorts here’s a selection of our Milan Fashion Week highlights and a preview of the trends for SS2019.

90s Supermodel Revival
It was a revival of the former supermodels for one. Shalom Harlow at Versace. Eva Herzigova, Carla Bruni, and Marpessa at Dolce & Gabbana. As Guinevere van Seenus walked the Marni runway and Stella Tenant opened the Salvatore Ferragamo show.

It’s a (head) wrap
Armani presented us with some umbrella-like XL hats and Prada introduced a selection of studded crown inspired hats. But the main head wear trend was the head wrap. Rose shaped at Dolce & Gabbana, high up at Etro and Missoni and scarves tied around the models hats at Versace and Max Mara.

Prints on prints (on prints)
Clashing print at all the big Milan Fashion Week names. Naturally at Dolce & Gabbana and Etro, brands known for their focus on prints and more is more sigantura. But Marni, Roberto Cavalli and Versace also went all out with vibrant colors and unexpected patterns.

Bike Ride
It seems biker shorts are here to stay. The trend that was already big this summer is bound to get bigger next year. If it’s up to Prada, Fendi, A.F. Vandevorst, Blumarine and Roberto Cavalli that is. Wear them as an extra layer popping up from underneath skirts and dresses.

Tought act
When even the fashion houses who’ve build a name around their signature of delicate, ladylike designs (Alberta Ferretti) turn to tough looks and use workwear influences you know something’s up. Overalls, practical workwear inspired oversized jackets and all kinds of utility wear (Fendi) popped up throughout Milan Fashion Week.

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