Mickey Kümmer and Joyce Bergevoet winners Elite Model Look Nederland 2016

Mickey Kümmer and Joyce Bergevoet are the two winners of this year’s (the 33th) Elite Model Look Nederland. After a nerve wrecking finale in which all ten male models and all ten female models walked several rounds (sportswear, casual wear and cocktail styled by Danie Bles) host Lieke van Lexmond announced the two winners. Mickey and Joyce both receive a 3 year modelling contract with Elite Model Agency Worldwide and get to represent our country during the international finale. The next David Gandy or Lara Stone might just have been discovered.

Sunanda Chandry Koning LES SOEURS ROUGES Fashion LAB Amsterdam SS2017

At Sunanda Chandry Koning the models had gone completely undercover. Their faces covered with large scarves, hats and glasses. A spooky effect combined with long cloaks draped over their shoulders. Some with a shimmer, one with a leopard print, another one with plastic pins and beads attached to it and there was one with floral appliques at the bottom. A fascinating collection for sure, but we’re not sure what to make of it yet.

They started out invidivually, one as a fashion designer, the other as an accessories designer. Their styles couldn’t be more different, so the thought of joining forces never really crossed their mind. Yet here we are, it’s Amsterdam Fashion Week and Dorrith en Marlous de Roode are presenting their joint collection under their name Les Souers Rouges. Inspired by history they’re collection is romantic yet tough. “We escape everyday life”, states Dorrith. “The world can be harsh in many things. We want to sent out creativity.” That creativity came through in impressive silhouettes, created by big skirts and voluminous jackets inspired by the former Zoo (1863) of The Hague. The sisters brought mesh and ruffles together (a contrast couldn’t be bigger) in a palette of black, white and light pinks. Impressive hairdos and accessories like monkey bags, butterfly belts and long silk scarves with animal prints completed the looks giving the show an exotic, Art Nouveau, fairytale touch.

 

Zyanya Keizer Catwalk Salon Show Amsterdam SS2017

It’s midnight by the ocean, the moonlight is shining over the (for this occasion) wavy catwalk as Zyanya Keizers’ models appear. They’re wearing pieces from the young designer’s brand new ‘Chiral’ collection inspired by nature and coral in specific. Deep sea dresses, jackets, skirts and tops in shades of blue, red and black are slowly following each other onto the runway. True one of a kind, handmade, mostly symmetric and – due to the beads – extremely heavy pieces, created with multiple beading techniques, reflecting molecules, organisms and coral structures. One by one representing the ultimate and perfect balance between art and fashion. With every piece being a mix of fantasy and timeless aesthetic. The beauty of the underwater world translated through clothing. As the show ended Keizers’ models stayed on the runway so the audience could take a closer look at the handcrafted ocean inspired designs. And the closer we got the more amazed we were. Wow!

ILKECOP Merel van Glabbeek Fashion LAB Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

When ‘Urban Couture for the non-confirmist’ is your tagline, you know you’ve found yourself a perfect little niche market. Sunday afternoon fashion brand I LKE COP made sure we’d remember it’s show opening with a live rap act followed by a selection of colorful cool, statement looks. Midi skirts, high waisted pants, oversized sweaters, boxy tops, loose jackets, a few dresses and a cropped top appeared contemporary, funky and super wearable. Especially if you rock those outfits with some Teva-looking sandals and sporty socks, right? We spotted some tweeds and some floral prints in the mix with some bold unicolored pieces in yellow, kobalt blue, cognac and mint. A standout collection by Brussel based designer Ilke Cop.

“With this collection I want to create peace in all chaos that surrounds us and shows the beauty that is still there”, explained Merel Glabbeek. Dark and moody was the vibe at her show. Starting with the loud desolate and gloomy music, ending with the black confetti falling from the ceiling, creating the right balance between structure and chaos. In between we were presented with a selection of nicely tailored long & lean looks. Wool jersey combined with materials like bamboo, canvas and lycra. With beaded embroideries that added to the luxurious feeling of the collection and gave the illusion of a new kind of fur. Shades of black, off white and pastel complemented the shapes of the fashion pieces. Unique, handmade pieces that together turned into collection ‘Hush’, defined by blended contrasts and strong, dark and feminine silhouettes. A collection that brought structure and chaos together.

Given Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Each season Given designs a wide range of mens- and womenswear. Yet on Sunday afternoon the label decided to only present it’s latest womenswear collection for SS2017. A collection with no less than 47 contemporary ready to wear looks in a soft palette of army greens, powder pinks, beige and sandy tones. The Given models appeared confident and ultra feminine sporting their skater skirts, body con dresses, waistcoats, lace-up pants and ruffled, off shoulder tops. Hair slightly curled, sexy legs on display, strutting the runway on their elegant open heels. All easy to wear / street chic items that will appeal to a lot of young Dutch women. The label believes that what you wear is a powerful statement about who you are. And we believe that’s a given.

SUE ft. VJR Jewels Fashion LAB PRO Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

As soon we arrived at the Transformatorhuis we knew something was up. SUE ft. VJR Jewels was not going to be your average LAB fashion show. As a starter there was a dog laying front row (that’s a first!). But there were also women in wheelchairs placed in front of the rest of the audience. As the first model appeared it became clear: Warriors of the new revolution turned out to be a fashion show on wheels.

All models elegantly drove onto the runway in a wheel chair making a clear statement on diversity. And why not present a collection shown by models in wheelchairs and therewith portraying a refreshing image of beauty. As far as designer Kelly Sue is concerned beauty comes from with. Her fashion label Sue is all about diversity and this collection spoke about power, militancy and spirit.

That power was visible in fashion classics like the trenchcoat, the jeans and the pencil skirt. All developed for a sitting position to perfectly fit the customer in a wheel chair. Even with the selection of fabrics designer Kelly Sue kept her special customer in mind opting for elastic and airy fabrics. A new fashion category of ‘Seated Fashion’ is born!

The selection of casual must’ve designs was given some extra strength by the army inspired VJR Jewels attached to the clothes, the gloves, the accessories. A doggy on the runway accompanying it’s owner all the way up to the photogapher’s pitch gave the show a welcome soft touch; ‘oohs’ and ‘ahhhs’ all over.

Not your average AFW show, but a perfect start of this sunny, fashion filled Sunday.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

What a nice tropical surprise on such lousy summerdays like these. Hearing the crickets sing while sitting between huge decorations of colourful flowers and plants. The show was called ‘Afropolitan’ and tells the story of tradition and development, identity and the power of the African woman. To get the most out of it, Liselore joined forces with Vlisco, a famous Dutch company that produces and distributes fashion fabrics for the West and Central African market. She was inspired by the many colourful fabrics she found in their archives. Her muze comes from the Igbo-pedigree, Nigeria. She calls her the typical ‘Afropolitan-woman’, a term that stands for the bridge between old traditions and habits and modern day life. And it showed in every form and fiber.

It was translated into a collection that keeps on developing itself. It all started in 2013, analyzing and renewing prints and colours by adding or skipping layers. Creating luxurious elements by using lacework, embroideries and subtle shimmers. Using the typical Igbo-colours like indigo (earth), yellow (sacred) and red (human) on new silhouettes. The models wearing plants and flowers in their hear and heavy red eye shadow. We also spotted some rich Indian fabrics, like hand painted silks and woven jacquards, giving it a ultra feminine feel. All the while keeping the lines and shapes very simpel and clean, with draping and folding to create some movement in the clothes. It was complimentary for the eyes, but it also makes you question what kind of woman this would wear. There’s a big group of modern urban men (we usually tend to call them ‘hipsters’ and especially living in Amsterdam) that have been embracing these kind of prints for several years now, but what about the ladies? There were definitely looks that fit perfectly in the streets nowadays, but is the Dutch woman brave enough to wear these extravagant clothes? We shall see. It would definitely not hurt on such grey and rainy days.

Tess van Zalinge Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

Pretty sure there’s not one single woman on this planet who loves to see herself in white fluorescent lightening. Except for today, at the show of Tess van Zalinge. The venue, that was supposed to feel like a (modern) church, was lightened up by long sticks of white fluorescent light, and it didn’t do any harm. At all, on the contrary. It fitted the minimal ambiance of the collection called ‘Status quo ante’, which is Latin for “the way things were before”. What she means by that? It’s a reaction to the overflow of stimulus, choices and possibilities we have these days. Which makes her longing for the way things were before. Go back to basic, there where it all started. Anna Wintour once said: “Fashion’s not about looking back, it’s always about looking forward.” But is it? Something that’s seriously questioned today by Tess. She thinks we’re too focused on the future, which makes us numb for what is right now. We should embrace the moments as they’re happening. And so we did, completely taken by her beautiful collection based on support, structure and Dutch craftsmanship. Building a bridge between lingerie and upper wear, and innovative twists to Dutch folklore. Which was obvious in pieces like a black semi-transparent bodice accompanied by an black apron (so cool!) or a bright green pleated shirt-dress. Rebuilding the foundations doesn’t mean it will be boring or predictable. Although her signature style that’s highly appreciated, Tess perfectly knows how to leave enough room for your own imagination.

Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

A fully packed Gashouder is waiting for designer Dennis Diem to start his show. Also the big fashion journalists are present, gathering in the front row. All iPhones held in line to capture the perfect opening shot as soon as the lights switch off. The excitement for the ‘Sweet Rebel’ show is tangible. And who doesn’t want to be part of a romantic fifties movie scene, but in real life? A show that takes you back to the set of cult-film Cry Baby (1990, John Waters). Don’t we all dig the famous love stories about the good girl falling for the bad guy? And good she was, oh la la. The collection was sugarcoated with pastel colours, ruffles, petticoats, silk, organza, tulle, jacquards, lace and cashmere. Not to mention his hand-made bodices. It felt like we were attending high school prom, waiting (and shivering) for our big crush to come pick us up on his motorcycle.

“I’ve never seen such a proper show from Dennis”, someone in the audience recalls. Probably not knowing what was about to come. Because our high school crush a.k.a. The Ladykiller arrived on an actual (!) motor vehicle, and it immediately changed everything into a good girl gone bad vibe (where’s RiRi when you need her). Dennis Diem collaborated with designer Jos Jacob, who’s work is known for leather, bondage and beauty in the imperfection. Leather bathing suits, platform shoes as high as the Eiffel Tower and fishnet pantyhose with a skull hiding your most precious parts. It felt like 50 shades meets 50s romance, talking of a extreme clash. “I met him in the candy store”, the music plays along. Wouldn’t that make love so much easier than it is today? Let’s forget about online dating, delete Tinder or Happn, and channel your inner sweet rebel. Because this is the real deal, and we would die for a ride on that motor vehicle.

Esmay Hijmans + TRINHBECX LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

What happens in room 237, doesn’t stay in room 237. Cause we were all invited tonight, by designer Esmay Hijmans (started as intern at Mattijs van Bergen). Her newest collection is based on the movie The Shining and happening in a dark surreal world where night creatures come alive. What happens between dream and reality? ‘The dark night of the soul is a journey into the light, where she becomes a tender dreamer with an artistic freedom.’ This collection was inspired by fashion photographer Guy Bourdin’s seventies inspired dark glamour. Which means a lot of black, black and black. Feminine womenswear and comfy couture with a bedroom/evening dressing feel to it. We saw some white silky jumpsuits, silk trousers, narrow tops with flared sleeves and lingerie inspired finishing touches like embroidered moths, butterflies, flowers, beads and sequins. And who’s daring enough to wear the black bra with off-shoulder flowy sleeves attached to it?

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The label started by Tung Trinh en Tim Becx, both coming from ArtEZ Hogeschool van de Kunsten Arnhem, first participated in the Global Denim Awards before entering the actual fashion arena here in Amsterdam. This saturday they showed their SS17 collection called ‘Drift’, named after the 1960’s sculptures of British artist Philip King. A big pink paper roll covered the runway, creating a colourful backdrop. And it got even more exciting from the bubbly music beat from Jessy Lanza’s ‘It means I love you’. It was a perfect match with a collection that was all about the sensual balance between masculinity and femininity. Cause where is the border? You probably won’t find the solid answer here on the catwalk, neither do you find it somewhere else, cause it’s all up to you. You decide. But these two young designers will definitely help you shaping your thoughts on this matter, by using heavy shapes, straightforward and oversized silhouettes, extravagant fabrics and quirky volumes that emphasize or negate the conventional ideal of the body. Time to reconsider the definition of male and female. Men wearing a pink patent leather trench, why not? A woman showing off her boxer over her sagging pants? Sure do. And we couldn’t keep our eyes of the ankle length black coat with slits so high up you may want to train your bum a little bit more next time you hit the gym.

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