Their Italian roots have always been a focus point in their collections, but for SS2017 Domenico and Stefano took the love for their country a little further. Their complete summer line up seemed an ode to everything the Italian cuisine is famous for. Pasta, pizza, icecream, wine, fish and appertivi. And who wouldn’t want to work a silk pyjama with ‘gelato’print, an airy fusilli dress or a tomoto hat? Aiming at a younger audience (a fresh club of millennials sat front row at their show) Dolce & Gabbana brought the fun back in fashion (if it was ever gone). This was maximalism at its peek, with gold embroidered ‘matador’ jackets, encrusted sunglasses, floral hatpieces deluxe, statement bags, vived colors, print extravaganza and a large amount of sparkling crosses in the mix. For those able to look through the madness there were some beautiful creations. A perfectly tailored suit and a splendid black lace midi dress among other pieces that show the portray the designers fashion skills. Yet it was the maximalism in this collection, the dancers on the stage and the white printed Tee filled finale that made the noise that will eventually reach the Dolce customer. A fashion loving youngster looking for something original to wear on the next Instagram post. A quick fix. Let’s hope some of the more classic Dolce & Gabbana creations won’t get lost in the hype.
The see now buy now concept that has been circling around many fashion shows was nowhere to be found at Bottega Veneta. Thomas Maier is not interested in commercial immediacy. He wants to design beautiful clothing, made of impeccable materials, that will last more than just one season. So his collection was more about wardrobe classics than it was about trends or modernity. Vittoria Ceretti opened the show in a long croc leather jacket and a pair of high waisted 7/8 pants. A dark look for S/S2017, but perhaps Maier wasn’t focusing on one season eather. Just as he was not focusing on one gender (it was a collection of both mens and womenswear) or age (many of the ensembles would work for women of any age, even Lauren Hutton, who carried an intrecciato woven clutch bag in the 1980 movie American Gigolo, entered the runway). And indeed, we could see those belted trenchcoats and tee dresses be worn by a large group of women, any time of the year, to just about any occasion. Lots of (bright colored) leather, leather detailing (belts, pockets, collars), a classic silhouette (with a focus on the waist) and a selection of fresh looking statement bags (15 bags from the Veneta archive were reproduced). 50 years of Bottega Veneta celebrated with timeless style.
Who would have ever thought Teva sandals would appear on a Versace runway? A sign that, for SS2017 Donatella Versace was ready to change things up a bit. Adding ‘sportive’ to her usual ‘strong’ and ‘sexy’ collection. She introduced color blocked parkas and leather jackets to add to her selection of bodycon leggings, mini skirts and tight dresses. Next summer the Versace woman is going places other than cocktail parties and night clubs. But even in a midnight blue raincoat she’ll make heads turn, just like closing model Gigi did tonight.
There was a little something for every woman in the new Sportmax summer collection. A red strapless jumpsuit, a pair of high waisted white trousers, an XL printed parka, a slouchy sweater, a cocktail dress and even a highly decorated evening number made their way onto the runway. All perfectly fine creations, yet none of them jaw dropping. The circle belts felt forced, as did the remarkable pointy hats and the sportswear drawstring detailing. The collection seemed to lack vision, urgency, a certain freshness. We didn’t spot any musthaves, not the kind of clothes you’d want to put on your summer wishlist immediately. Not the see now buy now type of clothing. Cause, loose and slouchy might fit on a lot of female bodies, it doesn’t necessarily appear elegant or sophisticated. But perhaps this was a collection that needs a little more time to grow on us. Who knows in a year from now that Sportmax slouchiness is all we’re looking for in our summer wardrobe. For now we remain undecided.
Stripes and florals lead the way at Fendi. Sporty and romantic came together in the first Fendi show since the Trevi Fountain spectacle in Rome. And even though that location is hard to beat this collection did a great job at wowing us. Styles may have had lots of historic references and influences from other decades overall they appeared young and modern. Especially that selection of wide legged 7/8 pants with cropped – underboob revealing – tops. Fully buttoned shirts were given a playful twist by the fun styling (sporty socks and crazy bags). Even those aprons appeared fresh in combination with those XL geeky glasses and metallic model lips. Perhaps Lagerfeld tried to teach us a fashion lesson. If you feel your outfit might fall out of place just add some bizarre styling tricks and you’re all set. Although the clothes would have been just as beautiful without all the distractions.
Fashion might have made a big turn from normcore to maximalism over the last few seasons, the Roberto Cavalli woman has stayed true to her sexy seventies style all along. For spring/summer too she’s going to dress like a free spirited vixen, be it with a little more accessory and detailing.
Not only will she be wearing colored velvet flared pants. They’re going to be embroidered from top to bottom too. Patchwork (a mix of floral and animal prints as seen on pants, tops and dresses) is going to be a big theme in her warderobe ass well. Airy maxi dresses and studded leather jackets fit in perfectly as extra fringes, lace up details, studs and ruffles will add to the seventies swing. Beaded jewelry, bee-like glasses, cowboy belts and skinny scarves in the mix. The Cavalli girl has always loved to live life to the max, she’s just turning things up a notch for next summer.
We left the Gucci show venue a bit overwhelmed. That was a lot to take in. From the setting (the carpeted catwalk with trademark Gucci stripe to the barely lit, smoke filled mirrored room and Florence Welch reading the poems of William Blake on the soundtrack) to the clothing; Alessandro Michele let it all out. Elaborating on his previous – extremely successful – collections he sent out a selection of outspoken, costum-y clothes matching the SS2017 “illusion of love”-theme. A collection not too different from the one hitting stores right now. Never change a winning formula, right? The success formula of seventies meets Renaissance was still a big theme. Evening dresses, platform loafers (with an extra slipper inside), frilled cocktail dresses and silky co-ords. Lots of metallic accents, florals prints, huge earrings, enormous hats and those crystal embroidered glasses topped it all of. A marvellous collection that will surely have Gucci fans all over the world go wild. And while we’re still head over heels with this current Gucci image. We can’t help but wonder when Michele will surprise us with some new ideas. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Yet a few more seasons of this maximalism success story and we might start to think it wasn’t true love, just a fling.
What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: London Womenswear Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.
NYFW is a wrap and what a week it was. From Kanye’s opening show to Marc Jacobs closing we’ve been presented with an inspiring fresh fashion season. Current styles have been further explored as revolutionary new ideas made their way onto the NYC runway. See now buy now was the overall theme as clothes straight from the catwalk immediately went on sale. Some of the crisp trends even already experienced their streetstyle moment. We’re talking cinched waists, cut out shoulders, foldover skirts and summer-y pinstripes looking splendid on some of today’s streetwear stars. Next summer you can even leave the house in robe-like coats or dressed bikini tops. And of course spring is the time for florals and ruffles. Ultimate wardrobe classics like the white shirt and the kaki trench coat are being deconstructed and updated in tons of ways. Yellow will be the main color for summer. Cut-outs are cool and a sweater with an image of Elvies on it is even cooler. Oh and did you notice the focus on the sleeves has now led to sleeves getting their own slit? To sum things up before we jump ahead to London Fashion Week here’s a fingerlicking first trend selection for spring/summer. Items you want to get your hands on right after you’ve clicked through our gallery.
Yellow fever
As seen at Lacoste, SiesMarjan, Thakoon
Earlier this New York Fashion Week Tommy Hilfiger made sure his Tommy Pier and the consumer’s ability to shop his catwalk clothes right away was trending. Today the other all American designer brand stepped into the same see-now-buy-now territory. A completely new move for the preppy brand that shut down the block on Madison Avenue and had both Julianne Moore and Jessica Alba witness the spectacle. Yet as modern as this decisions was, as classic appeared the Ralph Lauren collection. Buffalo checked shirts and heavy leather jackets, Navajo printed pieces and long fringed dresses topped off with cowboy hats. The fresh faces of catwalk stunners like Bella and Kendall seemed to be the only key to tell this was actually a 2017 collection. And why wouldn’t the designer stick to his winning formula? He divided his show into Western and Art Deco parts. And to make sure his show would be one to remember Ralph Lauren sent out a vibrant finale filled with satin and sequined dresses in bright colors. Not all the most desirable unique and contemporary pieces you’d want to get your hands on straight away. But the real RL-fans can eat there heart out tomorrow morning when the designs hit the stores.
Our own fashiondictionary Real Highlander There are only a few. Famous ones are Sonia Rykiel, Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Vivienne Westwood. They're around for at least 75 years and have designed over 750 different collections. The rumour goes they survive by sucking blood of male virgins to revitalize in between seasons.