BACKSTAGE FALL/WINTER 2017
BACKSTAGE FALL/WINTER 2017
PHOTO © 2017 TEAM PETER STIGTER – FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY – WITH CREDITS
BACKSTAGE FALL/WINTER 2017
BACKSTAGE FALL/WINTER 2017
PHOTO © TEAM PETER STIGTER – FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY – WITH CREDITS
BACKSTAGE FALL/WINTER 2017
PHOTO © 2017 TEAM PETER STIGTER – FOR EDITORIAL USE ONLY – WITH CREDITS
This classic wardrobe staple truly deserves a spot in your fall/winter wardrobe. In fact, it should have never left your wardrobe in the first place. Thanks to the likes of Balenciaga, Dries van Noten, Valentino, The Row and Céline it has now become a trend piece for the current season. Wear it casually with a jeans and some sneakers or go glam and pair it up with your sequined evening dress. Pair it with your favorite hoodie, cinch the waist with a big belt, pull up the sleeves, hands in your pockets and you´re good to go. In the trenches!
As fall in Amsterdam has started full force cosy cashmere sweaters and heavy woolen coats (as well as umbrellas!) actually are all we can think of in terms of daywear. But luckily the spring/summer collections gave us something to daydream about. Céline, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent and Dries van Noten wowed with their latest collections. Filled with crisp color palettes, updated trends, new references and fresh styling tips and tricks to look forward to.
If anything SS2018 is going to be exuberant. With a lead role for feathers, fringes and frills. Lots of volume, asymmetry and transparency and at least three crisp new trends we’d like to highlight.
So while you’re still in fashion rehab, sit back, relax and click your way through these galleries. Here we go:
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(Biker) shorts
As seen at Saint Laurent, Nina Ricci and Off-White
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Shiny, sparkly sequins
As seen at Dior, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli, Balmain
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Fringe effect
As seen at Chanel, Dior, Elie Saab and Stella McCartney
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The oddest combination of fashion items was Nicolas Ghesquière trump for Louis Vuitton on Wednesday as we gathered at the Louvre’s Pavillon de l’Horloge. Running shorts paired with luxurious brocade (waist)coats and chunky sneakers (hello millennial money) were the statement makers during the opening of the show. Sporty elements later returned in the shape of some striped zipped up pieces, scuba fabrics, backpacks and the tiniest pair of sunglasses. Such contrasts! Wide sleeved blouses and waistcoats were followed up by delicate dresses worn with leather off shoulder tops. Patent leather pieces and a fresh new rock shirt already had the looks of next summer’s bestsellers. Items that, just like those stunning sneakers, Louis Vuitton’s brand new store on Place Vendôme will sell like hotcakes within a few months.
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The cliffs and waterfalls of the Gorges du Verdon in the South of France were transported all the way up to the Grand Palais to act as yet another mind blowing backdrop. As the wind actually blew inside the show area and water drops spread all over the runway Karl Lagerfeld’s SS2018 girls were dressed for the occasion in plastic boots and boater hats that protected the luxurious clothing underneath. New fashion darling (and thus Karl Lagerfeld favorite) Kaia opened the show sporting a frayed end tweed suit that exposed her midriff, dark eyeshadow, bright red lips and transparent chunky earrings to match. More cropped tweed tops followed as well as tweed dresses with accentuated shoulders in shades of yellow, green and blue. A selection of wool and leather coats made up for a slight winter-y section. But those were quickly followed by airy (sheer) skirts and hairy (fluffy) sweaters. Denim trousers and a strapless top made up for the most casual look as aqua printed bathing suits and airy beach dresses lead up to an all white finale of delicate, wedding-ish ensembles.
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Now more than ever Stella McCartney’s eco conscious believes matter and are speaking to a wider audience every single day. So she decided to step up her eco game even further. By using yarn made from plastic bottles retrieved in the ocean. And by encouraging her fashion following to resell their McCartney designer items in partnership with the fashion resale site The RealReal as a strategy to reduce the 75% of clothing that end up in landfill worldwide. Eco thoughts aside, we witnessed a funky, diverse, outspoken collection of day to night looks. Maxi dresses and colored denim on denim in the mix. We spotted quite some ‘hate it or love it’-looks in the mix. As a white skirt and a plain white Tee suddenly felt like the perfect summer attire. Jumpsuits, ruffled blouses, strong shoulder tops paired with comfy footwear, cross body bags and super sporty sunglasses led to a remarkable collection we still haven’t completely digested.
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Delicacy done in a sporty way, that’s what Pierpaolo Piccioli presented us with. Inspired by de Apollo moon landing as well as some of Mr. Valentino’s best eighties glamour designs Piccioli delivered a fascinating spring/summer collection. Yes it was still very Valentino, but the designer managed to take the signature a bit further. Not just a never ending line up of maxi dresses but pants (even a jeans), utility jackets, jumpsuits, shorts, singlets and heavily decorated/embellished short party dresses (short versions of the dresses Mr. Valentino created in the 80’s) too. Each and every single one extremely delicate and outstanding in it’s design and eye for detail done in a palette of light colors with the right touch of Valentno red, of course. A more approachable line-up that might trigger a younger target group, yet as delightful and romantically Valentino as always.
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If we had to name one show that had desirability written all over it, it would no doubt be Céline. Wow. This was just a parade of want-to-have-pieces. From the exceptional, original yet classy skirt/suit/dresses to the long and large asymmetrical dresses. A pleated yellow skirt paired with a boxy pink suit jacket and a purple colored mesh turtle neck looked incredibly fresh. As a navy blue belted dress breathed of effortless chic. Some leather tops and dresses looked rather complicated, but the bags and the belts (oh those bags and belts) made up for any tough looking ensembles. Not to mention those though looking earrings, bangles and brooches. Like no other Phoebe Philo know how to bring quality, comfort, craftmanship and style all together in what has now turned into our complete SS2018 wishlist.
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If anything Loewe is focusing on branding more than ever. Sliced T-shirts, dresses and sweaters had the brand’s name spelled out on them. Followed by a couple of branded sweaters. A half shredded trench coat and a frayed end leather lined green skirt gave the collection a careless touch. As dreamy dresses with liberty or paisley prints or checked parts, fringe details, peplums and ruffled collars added some romantic vibes. Summed up: this was a diverse patchwork collection with Moroccan inspired elf slippers, branded safari hats a new bunny it-bag to match.
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A tight fit, a long and lean silhouette and a fresh – almost sterile – looking color palette formed the base of Haider Ackermann’s new collection. Cut-outs and twisted fabrics made up for a strong game of pattern making. Whatever the dresscode of the party you’re heading off to in one of these Ackermann designs, you’ll look fierce in any case. A two colored turtle neck cropped top and highwaisted navy pants definitely was one of the show favorites. Those golden leather pants will no doubt score in many magazine features. And on the right celebrity body that long light yellow dress Melissa Tammerijn was wearing, would just blow everyone away on the red carpet of any upcoming award show. “It’s linear and graphic,” Ackermann said of the collection. Linear, graphic and extremely cool.
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Olivier Rousteing’s army of Russian supermodels presented his latest work at the the Palais Garnier. A special location for Rousteing since the first trip he ever made to Paris he watched the ballet at this very venue. Therefore his show today seemed to have a deeper layer to it. It was not just about pretty clothing and a hot looking glamazone squad. There was a subtle change noticeable that might have originated from Rousteing’s desire to work a little more from the inside out as he spoke of his adoption backstage after the show. Getting to know Rousteing a little better resulted in strong and sexy looks with a slightly more loose silhouette. Body tight dresses had playful ruffle details and there were even some loose ‘sweaters’ and suit jackets. Patent leather and metallic detailing popped up in almost every single look as the color palette of black and whites only changed towards the end of the show when touches of red and blue spiced things up. Oh and since strong shoulders are back in fashion, of course Balmain re-rocked that trend to the fullest.
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