Trend Report SS2018: Sharp or smudged?

So truth be said, nude lips are all the rage for the upcoming season. Yet, as the story goes with classics, a good red lip never goes out of style. And so for spring/summer 2018 many make-up artists went for a statement lip. Fun fact is that this time around that statement lip varies from super sharp to completely smudged. Razer sharp were the deep red lips at Kenzo, picture perfect one by one. The biggest contrast compared to the extremely smudged lips at Gucci. The shape of Sies Marjan’s orange colored lips was right in between and at Margiela lips looked like stamps. And then there were the models at Sonia Rykiel, Blumarine, Dolce & Gabbana, Chanel and Temperly London with their perfect pouts. Au natural may be trending, red hot is still a ‘thing’. Whether sharp or smudged, let’s paint this town red (orange and burgundy). Kiss kiss, bang bang.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

Apart from the few menswear looks (from her menswear line that is just one year old) the Stella McCartney womenswear was a perfect interplay of masculinity and femineity. She introduced a fair amount of long lace, pastel colored dresses and alternated them with winter suits and checked woolen coats. Large prints of British artist J.H. linch paintings were the statement makers on several dreamy, transparent dresses. Bags were big and shoes less chunky than the Stella’s we’ve spotted out on the streets these weeks. Still there was lots to love. And with the sustainability factor becoming more and more important Stella McCartney is staying one of the key players in the international fashion game (the designer is said to be wanting to buy back parent company Kering’s 50 percent). The finale’s white lace maxi dress looked pretty enough to get married in. And we can’t help but already imagining those pretty fairytale dresses on Hollywood parties and award shows to come.

 

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

If you were to look up modern elgegancy images of Valentino’s fall/winter2018 runway would be popping up. Pierpaolo Piccioli Romanticism collection as he called it was perfect in every way. It was a true Valentino show in the sense of the large line up of long dreamy dresses, the use of the most beautiful materials and a Valentino red section in the middle. Yet there was so much more to this collection that felt fresh and unlike any other collection we’ve seen the last couple of weeks. No pulling from the archives, no throwbacks to seventies or eighties, but just a new light shed on elegancy. Long dresses worn over pants, capes and (riding) hoods, high collars and small scarves, strapless details, wide sleeves, flowing lines, floral appliqués and lots of ruffles painted the picture. All of this done and created in the most beautiful color palette. Fresh looking dream designs for the modern day woman of just about any age. Valentino can be SO proud.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

Take a look at the current fashion trends and you’ll notice 5 out of 10 trends originate back to Balenciaga. It’s not just the shoes (the knife boots, the metallic ankle boots and those Triple S sneakers) that are selling like hot cakes (despite their price tag). It’s the checks, the trench coats, the fanny packs, the logos and what not. And after clicking through fw2018 we can reassure you Balenciaga will again be one of the hit makers of the new season. The show, in which both male and female models walked, was about covering up for the cold. The backdrop was, as designer Gvasalia put it, a kind of a snowboarder paradise from the beginning of the ’90s; a fake snow mountain covered in graffiti. And what do you do when temperatures drop? You layer up. Right?! And so models sported fur coats over parkas over checked shirts over jersey sweaters over floral dresses over checked skirts. No doubt layering will be a big theme next year. An image of Joey from Friends wearing every fashion piece from his closet has already been hunting us since the show. New 3D techniques created foam out of bonded traditional fabrics. The result of super fitted, body hugging designs had something futuristic to it. And the brand proved it’s focus on the future by promoting the World Food Program and by donating $250,000. “You see, I don’t want to be just a T-shirt-and-hoodie man. We sell them, of course—but I feel I have a responsibility to do it in a way which brings a message”, Gvasalia stated as his new sneaker is hitting headlines on social media and all the big fashion websites.

Hermes Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

On an outdoor red runway Hermes models appeared looking strong, confident and a little dark. Their head to toe black leather looks with studs and gloves had a bondage/fetish touch to them. Yet as more color came into the collection the exciting feel of a fresh fashion season kicked in. A woolen dress with mustard colored boots might be quite a simple idea, but looked o so sophisticated. And those colored knee high boots turned many of the collection’s looks from plain to powerful. Leather trench coats, a woolen duffel coat and a selection of aviator jackets created an impressive outdoor game. Tiny bags and XL versions added some contrast to the Hermes luggage game. There was so much to love we’d almost just want to skip summer al along. Just click through our gallery and you’ll see why a belted leather dress, a pair of orange colored boots with a tiny studded bag is our fall/winter 2018 dream look. Ultimate elegancy in the perfect autumn color palette. Worth the freeeeezing open air wait? Absolutely.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

Spiky shag wigs and pale faces had Haider Ackermann’s models look slightly ill. Yet it didn’t effect the impact of his range of colorful looks. A dusty pink asymmetric tuxedo jacket paired with white tights and green velvet laced up booties spoke just as loudly. As did an olive green parka coat, a shiny orange suit and a leopard printed trench. “We’re going through strange times; I wanted to have this fragility, but [also] something very uplifting,” Ackermann explained to the press. Not sure what that statement really spoke of, but there were plenty of uplifting pieces indeed. Sporty meets chic meets grungy was given an extra feminine touch by embroideries, pleats and ruffles. Whatever next year’s dresscode Ackermann will have you covered.

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

Futuristic much?! The Balmain army came walking down the runway straight from the year 2050. Every look was shiny, powerful and original in it’s very own way. From a silver metallic jumpsuit (that kicked off the show) to sequined dresses and holographic PVC. Even de ripped denim had shiny plastic pieces to it. And a pair of tattered denim jeans looked desirable as can be (the price tag might shock you though). And as Olivier Rousteing changed up the color palette from pastel-ish to neon the true Balmain DNA shone through even more. Holographic raffia-fringed dresses had the cinched waists and string shoulders the brand’s most popular for. And even a pleated skirt and metallic striped sweater had a showstopping touch to them. Slouchy pants added an extra eighties vibe, but the focus was still fifties. Future fifties that is. And if this is what the future looks like, let’s go!

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

As we took our seats at Palais de Tokyo on Thursday Rick Owens awaited us with yet another out of the ordinary collection. He sent out extremely structured looks with roomy backpacks, 3D designs that appeared to be stuffed with pillows (Could fashion be any more cosy?). Looks that may be unpractical or man repelling (even though the collection spoke of seduction), yet they score high on originality nonetheless. More wearable were a couple of strapless blanket wraps and a selection of woolen overcoats with stud motifs and deep fur-lined pockets. And as experimental headpieces and white face paint added just the right eyebrow raising effect all the fashion press can speak of right now are the brown and yellow plaids that carried the finale. “Arte povera seduction” read the show notes. And even though most of these runway looks don’t necessarily pop up in one’s head when thinking of seduction we can see how those flannel plaid looks might do a great job in empowering a woman’s sex appeal/seductive mood.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2018, Day 03

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that Balenciaga-shirt or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashionweek, womenswear FW2018/19.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2018

Staying warm and looking sharp never worked togther so glamorously as they did at Dries van Noten’s fall/winter collection at the Parisian Hôtel de Ville. The Belgian designer beautifully mixed silk blouses with fur detailed skirts and heavy coats with elegant (pajama like) trousers. He introduced (art deco inspired) printed parkas and bright colored stoles, printed boots to match. Checked suits and silky dresses in the mix. Zipped up jackets and jogger pants for a luxury, sportive touch. How perfectly the mix of textures (all in house textiles) turned out. Doodle details were everywhere throughout the collection, dresses, coats and bags were trimmed in feathers and fur. Statement earrings and bags as the only accessories. A touch of red eye shadow to top it all off.

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