Mary Katrantzou Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear SS2019

It’s been a decade since Mary Katrantzou first started out. Time to celebrate! And so she did. But Katrantzou didn’t reflect on those ten years. She wanted newness and so she came up with a fresh take on the signature look she created over the years. “Collecting” is the theme for SS2019 covering a mix of Katrantzou’s most favorite silhouettes, techniques and most recognizable prints and images. The structured silhouettes (A-line, column, circular) were impeccable. The details (embroidered flowers, shiny beads and sequins) looked exquisite. The color palette (of bright ombre shades) was as impressive as always. She turned butterflies, stamps, insects, perfume bottles and works of art into dazzling digital prints. There were veils, head wraps and caps as Jimmy Choo worked out a matching shoe game. Almost too much prettiness to take in in only fifteen minutes of showtime. 10 year anniversary pieces most certainly deserve a second and a closer look.

 

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear SS2019

Another ten year anniversary during London Fashion Week. Not only Mary Katrantzou but Victoria Beckham too celebrated her decade in fashion. For the occasion she brought her label back to London instead of taking part in the usual NYFW. Ten years of Victoria Beckham the label and boy did she grow up. From the bodycon dresses (which did very well) she started out with to the structured jackets and jacquard trousers with spliced ankles that define her look at the moment. Bare faced models with slick hairdos looked confident and cool in the layered looks. Suit jackets over loose tees over airy skirts over trousers paired with either silver or white booties. Although some combinations might not have appeared very natural they did have a certain effortlessness about them. Lace tops were feminine and delicate, yet paired with those spliced at the ankle trousers never too sexy. Which is something Victoria Beckham has mastered like no-one else over the years. Looking hot but keeping it cool. And so with this collection she stayed true to her core, but most certainly didn’t look back or reflect on the past decade. The ex Spice Girl (should we even still bring that up?) has come a long way, she proofed she earns a spot in fashion (and beauty too soon: “We’re going to launch a beauty brand as well, so I’m going to be developing makeup, skincare and fragrance — that’s something that I’m very excited about”, the designer said) and is here to stay. “It just feels like the start of the next 10 years”, she said. Well cheers to another decade Victoria!

Christopher Kane Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear SS2019

As was the case with two of his last collections today’s Christopher Kane line up had sex as a theme. Inspired by David Attenborough’s films on the mating behaviors of wildlife and Marilyn Monroe the designer and his co-creative director and sister Tammy came up with a sensual but sophisticated collection. Or, as Christopher called it himself: “It’s intellectual. It’s subversive.”

Nature and Sex was the name of the show. And all prints could be directly linked to it. ‘Sexual Cannibalism’ read a few sweaters, ‘Horse Power’ and ‘Foreplay’ was written on a few other items. Quite simple sporty pieces that contradicted with some of the glamorous, shiny disco pieces. Another contradiction could be found in the delicate – next to nothing – lace tops vs. the strong shouldered jacquard jackets.

Shoewise there were sneakers and sex toy inspired pumps. No bags or jewelry were used; the clothes had enough details on their own. Especially since diamonds formed a theme too. They were there as a print on sheer evening dresses. And as real chunky and colourful stones on the necklines and chests of a few dresses and tops.

A shiny, loose fitting purple suit could have come straight out of 1001 nights and surely looked like the comfiest fit for a night out. All other designs with sparkling straps (cuffs, necklines, shoulders and hips) were mesmerizingly beautiful. Funny how delicate such a sex inspired collection can turn out.

Burberry Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear SS2019

Yesterday Risccardo Tisci presented his much anticipated debut collection for Burberry. And if the number of looks he designed was an indicator for the success, he surely didn’t disappoint. He came up with a (so it seemed) never ending show filled with 134 menswear and womenswear looks divided into three chapters Refined, Relaxed, and Evening. In each chapter Tisci presented his vision on British culture, altogether this was the British lifestyle. A leading role, naturally, for the trenchcoat in many variations. The Burberry check that is now all over Instagram was less present. It only briefly popped up, more in the form of a Burberry stripe. The womenswear looks were very dressed up as Tisci is trying to bring more sophistication into fashion again and focus less on the street. Midi skirts and blouses, high waisted pants, suit jackets, capelike designs with cut-outs, loafers & white socks and heels made up for a feminine and well dressed summer wardrobe for the ladies. As the lads will look equally stylish in pinstripe suits (cinched at the waist), parkas, polos with a zipper, oversized cape inspired Tees, that red colourful tracksuits and just a splash of leopard print. 134 looks to easily get you through next summer.

Delpozo Catwalk Fashion Show London Womenswear SS2019

Pretty aqua painted artwork clips on DelPozo’s Instagram had us tiptoeing towards the SS2019 collection presentation over the last few days. A lovely light yet colourful countdown (DelPozo’s signature) that had us guessing what the show’s theme would be. With Josep Font as creative director the Spanish brand delivered a light hearted collection filled with transparency.

Inspired by the work of Murano glass artist Fulvio Bianconi Font created countless looks with sheer parts and see through details. With some models it even felt like you could see right through them, yet their clothes obviously were too beautiful to miss. Hand embroidered, nature inspired details on tops and dresses gave the collection an extra touch of delicacy. Although the light colored, ruffled and draped ensembles already spoke of next level elegancy.

Floral shaped headpieces and silver colored gladiator sandals embellished with petal shaped details gave a dreamy, light touch to the looks the fresh faced models wore. Looks that certainly had a lot going on, yet thanks to the color palette, the silhouette and the effortless way the clothes were worn looked simple and modest.

For next summer those button down blouses, knee length skirts, tea dresses and one shoulder, draped tops is all we want to wear. Oh and everything in this lovely palette of mint green, white and lilac hues please.

Sies Marjan Catwalk Fashion Show NYC SS2019

Mom’s the word. At Sies Marjan designer Dutch Sander Lak (36) let his mom Marjan (his father’s name was Sies) walk the runway. And not just her, his biggest critic, was part of his model cast. Childhood friends and model friends like Kaia and Presley Gerber (their mother Cindy Crawford came out to support them) were present too. “This collection’s cast is made of a group of people I love and admire, many who are part of my daily life. Friends and family, Sies Marjan coworkers, great models we love, and new ones we’re just getting to know. In a sense, this group is my home too”, Sander Lak said.

The color palette was on point as always with Lak, who worked under master colorist Dries Van Noten. Colors like ocher yellow, violet, deep red, bright blue and, burgundy and lilac were vibrant and fresh. Quite some complete crispy white looks as well. But besides color Lak experimented with materials and textures too. He came up with painted leathers, washed cottons, and show stopping croc-mimicking plastics.

Most impressive were the layered looks. Like the khaki colored look Malgosia Bela wore. Like the pinstriped blue ensemble Charlotte O’Donnell sported. Or the pink colored skirt + coat Dree Hemingway (who by the way rocked a fresh, super short new haircut) introduced. And the leather burgundy outfit that followed up. Anwar Hadid walked the show in a printed suit and a heavy gray vest.

Mom looked stunning and comfy in a nautical striped design. Proof that this collection has a bit of both; edgy vs. comfy. Those features might need to come together a bit more. But overall this was another strong, fresh and wearable line up of Sies Marjan looks. Mom Marjan will be so proud.

Ralph Lauren Catwalk Fashion Show NYC SS2019

“The show was a bonus. The real reason we are all here is not for the show, it’s because of you. We are here to celebrate you, Ralph Lauren, and 50 years of you designing our dreams.” Those were the words none other than Oprah spoke after the major catwalk show Ralph Lauren this Friday. “Fifty years of you stimulating our ambitions, 50 years of you creating a sense of value, that brought goodness and wholesomeness to glamour. Your story exalts our collective story. That fact that you were a boy from the Bronx, who was able to have an idea about big ties and smart enough not to let Bloomingdale’s take it, and take that ideas of big ties and create a gigantic company.”

Oprah was one of the many famous guests of the night. A-listers like Hillary, Kanye and Robert de Niro all came out to Bethesda Terrace, Central Park, show their support/respect for the all American brand that has now been around for half a century. It was romantic, memorable, festive and iconic all at the same time. Even by just looking at the show images you must feel some kind of thrill.

And what a runway show it was. First up was a collection of 62 RRL mens- and womenswear eclectic and retro inspired looks in Lauren’s familiar themes like the American Southwest, British aristocracy. Followd by another collection of 55 Polo Sport looks. “This is about the world. It’s about change. It’s about all kinds of people, all kinds of countries. This is an inspiration of what I feel is happening with young people that are individual and love individuality”, the designer said. And he was right. Vintage inspired? Yes, but the pieces felt contemporary. And without the show’s retro styling the statement pieces done in the most luxurious fabrics would look so topical on their own.

Especially the second part of the show (which was more colourful, sporty, street, young, branded and on trend) contained numerous of pieces that will sell like hot cakes. Like the multi-colored hoodies, the branded beanies, the camouflage pants and the baseball jackets. Iconic too were the high school inspired pieces, the Navajo coats and classics like camel coats and tartan jackets.

“I do what I do”, Ralph Lauren stated and that’s what it was. The designer yet again delivered two strong, signature collections that feel contemporary even though built around classics and Lauren’s initial thoughts on what fashion should be. Congrats to fifty years of strong, consistent, determinative, all American fashion. Cheers to you Ralph Lauren and to the next fifty years!

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show NYC SS2019

Could a Jaws T-shirt with a CK logo printed onto it be a potential hot seller? Designer Raf Simons likes to think so. Inspired by seventies movies such as Jaws, Hooper, Ben and The Graduate he came up with a playful collection of deconstructed, asymmetric, unfinished (fringed ends everywhere) looks and a whole lot of Jaws merch. There is not much left of the straightforward, minimalistic, clean catwalk looks Calvin Klein used to have over the past few years. Raf Simons seems to like to experiment for the brand.

The printed (prints were animal inspired and tie dye) tea dresses looked a bit difficult though. Strong shouldered tweed jackets seemed appealing. Leather bodysuits felt fit for a dive into the ocean as heavy knits and graceful pleated  skirts (as worn by Stella Tennant) felt like the best idea. And that loose fitting red beanie Doutzen Kroes sported might just finish off the whole look. Food for thought.

Tom Ford Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2019

Tom Ford’s show notes spoke of the essence of him being a designer, the reason why. “I became a designer, because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence. A feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world. I wanted to make clothes that were flattering. That make one look taller and slimmer and more beautiful or more handsome.” And ever since the designer really put himself on the map in the mid-1990s he did just that.

SS2019 was no exception. To the sounds of Netflix series Babylon Berlin’s theme song he sent out an army of fierce looking women and some men. Cardi B, who created a lipstick with Tom ford that this week sold out in a day, was present among some other celebs.

The guys wore suits with shirts and sweaters with a pair of statement glasses.They main womenswear outfit was a mismatched powder shaded skirt suit in a mix of lace, satin and silk materials. Another big theme in the collection was croc leather popping up in the shape of jackets, belts, bags, bracelets and wallets in shades of black, green and lilac.

There were some impeccable trench coats, a leopard printed pony skin coat and a selection of the sexiest party pieces. Like a deconstructed tux or a sheer and body tight little black dress. Every look was styled off by a pair of pointy shoes with ankle straps and the female models sported silk scarves on their heads. Like Tom Ford promised in his show notes he made his models look their best; glamorous, confident, seductive and sexy af.

Backstage at Maison365 Amsterdam Fashion Week

What’s going on backstage at Maison365 ? Well guess: lots of hairdressers, make-up artistst and stylists getting all the models ready.

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