First View Milan SS2012: Modern Chic

There is more than sweetness and retro reminiscence. Artistic fashion architects reveal everyday beauty in powerful geometric shaping. Perfectly controlled and with optimistic freshness.

Lean masterful tailored statements in sculptural materials. From dense woven cottons as well to pure polished leather, in cool shaded plains as well as in bold graphic patterns and stripes. High decent collars and closures in multiple layered silhouettes reveal boxy tops on A-line skirts, that are under layered with chiffon pencil skirts and finished with Capri leggings.

A typical northern silhouette masterfully managed in Milan.  This look will provide consumers a fair reason to invest in fashion. Trussardi takes it clean and with masculine flair, Sportmax more sensual, Marni with a wink and Max Mara just perfect. For Fendi it was one more shot to go. Fendi managed to hit nearly every trend with a resourceful and versatile collection.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan SS2012: Before the depression

 

Another wave of Hollywood momentums, Art Deco reminiscence and pre depression jazz inspiration results in one more round of heirloom dressing. A pure celebration of the dress. For one the canvas to proof the lucky marriage between technology and crafts, for others a manifest to elevate the artisan over the machine. From minutely laser-cut decorations to intricate embroidery, beading and fringing. The 1920’s revived with modern twists; patterns inspired by ancient architectural icons as The Chrysler building, or lean away-from-the-body shifts inherited from the jazz-era. Paul Poiret would smile happily if he got a glimpse of this proud parade. Glorious chiffon dresses in supple mousselines match with lovely silks, polished rattan and liquid leather. Both Alberta Ferretti, Etro as well as Gucci show surprising, probably unmeant consensus.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan ss2012: Dare to be Bare

How relieved where we when top-lengths dropped covering midriffs generously half a decade ago. After seasons of revealed bellies the elongated tops seemed so much more luxurious and sophisticated. Yet now we seem to enter a period of hedonism once more, celebrating the body, enjoying fashion and consuming style.

It might be a more reduced and considerate attitude, yet true fashion lovers do go for show-off. A rich variation of midriff-baring sweet nothings show once more the likes for frivolous looks. Where the Belgium professor Helmut Gaus once ‘proved’ that skirt-lengths dropped during depression, these research results surely don’t correlate with top-lengths moving up in depth of crisis. In Milan we note barely-there bandeaux at Versace, lush wrap tops at Blumarine, puffed and crafted tunnel tops at Prada, where Emilio Pucci goes gypsy with intricate lace trimmed  bra-tops.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan ss2012: Sweet Memories

Celebrating the sweet is what Miucca Prada preaches for ss2012. Reminiscent of famous movie-moments these catwalk beauties look soft, smooth and sensual. This polished romance is not always just innocent since frivolous fabrics alternate with shimmery plastics and lush leather. Dressed up looks show a continuous interest in accessories and jewelry with supersized glasses, sparkling jewelry and charming bags.

Blugirl goes innocent, with sweet florals in pretty pastels, where Fendi adds a touch of concealed drama in ladylike looks. Fabrics as well as shapes have pin up appeal; lovely lace tops, frilled aprons and pretty plisse skirts. Adding to the lust for print, as we noticed in New York, Milan shows Fifties inspired patterns in the loveliest of colour schemes.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

First View New York SS2012: Digital Flowers

Make way for flowers! Digital printing finally get’s the stage it deserves. The silk printed iconic patterns once produced by Alexander McQueen and Mary Katranzou clearly left their trace. It’s sure one loves a touch of authenticity even when executed in one of the most advanced printing techniques. Designers went for water colour paintings, expressionist artistry, poetic and nostalgic bouquets among 70s pop florals and wild abstracts.  But there is also a less orthodox offering. Twisted versions that are blurred, cut and pasted, all adorning a rich variety of styles. In this stylespot we lined up bold 70s florals from DKNY, blurred water paints of Prabal Gurung, cut and pasted vibrancy of Altuzarra, sheer/opaque coordinates of Jason Wu and a brave shaded bicolor etching of Richard Chai.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

 

First View New York SS2012: Athletic Energy

New York makes a powerful start by taking the fast track. The first sound trend is spotted most clearly at Alexander Wang. Sporty garments with a great deal of sensuality in both styling as well as fabric looks and tactility. Technical to the touch and techno-crafted in the make. We spot shaded digital printing, sharp laser cutting, graphic blocking, vibrant colouring and architectonic shaping with grand physicality. The models of Y3 as well as Altuzarra seem to fly in free-floating featherweight windbreakers. Alexander Wang nears performing active wear referencing sports functionality most literary. Where Lacoste adds its known sporty vibe by use of bold graphics in sporty shades.  A promising start of the season expressing both opportunism as well as optimism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam.

Trend Report FW2011: Let’s Get Crazy! – Beauty

Ladies, don’t try this at home! Unless you’re up for some kind of theme party, of course. ‘Cause these crazy beauty looks are best worn only on the runway.

Golden bags under your eyes (Gareth Pugh), highlighted strong brows (Frankie Morello), the nose of a Dalmation dog (Unique), some colorful confetti (Gray) or just  a big splash of red paint (Viktor & Rolf), these were the craziest make-up looks we spotted for fall/winter 2011/2012.

Check out the gallery & get inspired!

Trend Report FW2011: Chunky Chokers

It can look kinda extreme, but if you mix a choker with the right kind of outfit, it will look stunning.

Now there are a couple of rules when wearing this neckpiece.
Unless you’re name is Anna dello Russo keep it subtle! A choker is already a strong statement piece so don’t choose the biggest one in the bunch.
Also, let the choker speak and don’t overshadow it by wearing an edgy outfit.
Wear a strapless top/dress or opt for a round neckline.
Leave your earrings and hairaccessories at home.
Never wear it too tight. You don’t wanna get out of breath.

Just look at some of the amazing examples Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent and Ungaro set. You gotta love it!

Trend Report FW2011: Amazing Coats

In winter time a good coat can be your very best friend. Rain, storm, snow or freezing cold; these comfy examples will get you through any kind of weather.

And it seems long and hairy is the way to go. Camel coats are over, it’s all about (fake) fur right now.

Also search for a jacket in which different textures are combined. Wool and leather, nylon and fur; it’s the mixture of fabrics that will make you(r coat) stand out.

Finally, if you bump into a structural coat, buy it! Accentuated shoulders, wide sleeves; this autumn it’s all about extreme forms and shapes.

Just look at the amazing coats Burberry, Versace, Louis Vuitton and Dries van Noten presented on the runway.

Trend Report FW2011: Minimalism 2.0

The Blumarine show was all about two of last season’s trends: color blocking and minimalism. And lucky for the Italian brand both trends are still a hit this fall.

Though slightly different, the minimalism trend is again very popular.

Chloé and Celine, who started the trend at first, have headed into a new direction, yet Calvin Klein and Jil Sander continue on with the minimalism.

The trend is shown in a slightly different way with more combinations of fabrics and even a print every now and then. Shapes however are staying very plain and simple, like we saw this summer.

Check the minimalism interpretations of Lanvin, Valentino, Rick Owens and Costume National in the gallery below.

 

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