Round Up Milan Womenswear FW2012

Milan was all about beauty and redefining feminine presence. The importance of womanhood translated into powerful design. Reports noted clear, modern sensibility and elegance rooted in the classic past, but applied to today’s woman. From linear, architectural statements to rock and roll romance, from virtual princess looks, to pre-Raphaelite twists and martial arts references. Inspiration was well documented and there seems a clear wish to find the context behind these hybrid collections. Where New York mixed identities Milan reinforced them. We spotted impeccable tailoring, love for crafts and embellishment, sublime couture and a daring choice of materials inspired by the wish to tap into the duality of the 21^st century woman.

Prada was much more then just ORIENTALIST, with a vibrant collection with strong contrast and  sharp & graphic silhouettes. In these outfits we see a glint of the well spread oriental inspiration shining though with opulent, high tech embellishment. Marni also joined this direction.

 

Many designers explored a dark color palette, but the DARK VISION of Dolce & Gabbana was at the same time an Italianate vision of palazzo life. They showed, as Bottega Veneta and Aquilano.Rimondi did, a more costume message.

 

Sportmax explored details in martial arts dress forms and applied these to a TECHNO FORWARD collection, combining natural and tech materials with retro futurist flavor. As did Fendi and Max Mara.

 

Raf Simons at Jil Sander was one of the designers for whom it was ALL ABOUT BEAUTY, both impeccably tailored and meltingly soft. Bottega Veneta presented a more powerful woman, but also beautiful in every detail.

 

Missoni, Roberto Cavalli and Fendi showed their NATURALIST character by applying their masterful crafts to nature’s textures, weaving an urban wardrobe out of wood, stone, fur, tree bark, and mica-sparkled minerals.

Milan’s collections where strong, spirited and powerful.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Techno Forward

 

Show reports told us that Ennio Capasa of C’N’C Costume National had “imagined a woman in a virtual metropolis” who is “post-punk, post-chic but above all technological.”

It seems to cover the choice of many: Fabrics, like extra shiny, slick patent leather, seemed to take priority over flattering
fit, as robust outerwear came in boxy shapes with diagonal zippers. It was futuristic and powerful. Uniforms inspire, which shows in mechanical straight lines, Bauhaus minimalism and military and naval tailoring.

Fendi shows harness belts combined with silky sleek tops and flared plisse. C’N’C Costume National shows two girls zipped in square cut shapes combining the high gloss with the soft touch. Where Sportmax was obviously
inspired by the uniform of martial arts: Karate, judo and other elegantly dressed forms of fighting.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Sharp & Graphic

Pleasure and having a good time was the lead team for some of the designers in Milan this week. It translated itself in a series of glorious graphics and optimistic vibrancy. All had their reasons to come up with the full dose of color, black and white contrast and sharp metallics. The mood ranged from Rock Chick rebellion to retro reminiscence and faint memories of Robocop and Blade runner. Clearly this was not just about having fun. It was serious couture craftsmanship and a minute interest in shape and detail. We saw geometric print, graphic straight-line cutting and embellishment. Next to positively shining metallics, iridescence, shining foils, plasticised embroideries and holographic surfaces.

At Prada the pants made the story, but it was the embroidery in all its glassy glamor that brought an extra dimension to this powerful show, Versace showed some robotic retro futurism, where Moschino threw a parade with cheerleader skirts and uniform jackets, Prada again played with daring color harmonies in optical patterns and Blumarine staged (as well as Fendi) funkiest and artistic furs painted in more than bright colors.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan Womenswear FW2012: Dark Vision

Beauty and confidence are what designers wish for their models to spread in Milan.  ‘Importance’ being a more significant message for women then mere ‘power’ as Miuccia Prada stated. And that is what we recognize. Dark glamor in various signatures ranging from soft ‘Goth’ to dark romance and reminiscent opulence. The future is taking refuge in the past and historical icons are wonderfully mutated in futuristic executions. The mood is stern yet the detailing rich and affluent. The spirit dark but generating pleasure rather then gloom. Love for materials is translated into embroidered and bejeweled aspects, laser cut lace effects and lots leather and lush velvets.

Prada shows virtual princes, avatars of fashions digital age – where Etro frames its iconic patterns in androgynous sculptural tailoring, Versace taps into a more sacral and medieval inspiration adding armors, chain-mail and crucifixes. Gucci mutates menswear into fluid classical drama with a smooth pre-Raphaelite twist.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

Round Up New York Womenswear FW2012

This was an interesting week in New York. This season seemed one big exercise. Testing shapes, volumes and proportions. Trying textures, various embellishments, prints and crafts from different origins and inspirations. Probing periods, from 20s, 30s, 70s to 80s. And the fun factor is that it is hard to guess what comes from whom. It seems ideas are exchanged, copied, re-edited and re-interpreted. Identities mixed, profiles and signatures blurred. Scatter collection snapshots and guess its origins. It will be a wild guess this time!

We spot a feel for the extreme and ECCENTRIC, iconic and humorous as Marc Jacobs showed it, reflecting on grand fashion divas. Altazurra and Libertine are two among others staging artful embellishment and intricate crafts.

 

Ports 1961 hit on a SCULTPURAL trend, showing a peplum silhouette, one of the favorites this season. But there is more; masterfully executed by the grand master of simplicity Calvin Klein but also Philip Lim, Peter Som and Alexander Wang showed bold rounded silhouettes.

 

OVERSIZED is an understatement when talking about the Proenza Schouler collection. Also both Donna Karan and Y3 super sized items within their range. Y3 is one of the few collections faithful to sportswear as we were so used to in The Big Apple.

 

NY was DRESSED UP this season, Donna Karan hat topped ladies dressed reminiscent of Marlene Dietrich. Victoria Beckham shows shapely contouring shifts and Diane von Furstenberg sensual draping.

 

Friendly and relaxed were the global travellers; modern NOMADS in multi cultural referenced cuddly warps and layers. Rag & Bone, showed city nomads, Y3 global hybrids and Proenza Schouler went east.

This fashion mash-up makes us curious about what comes next!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York FW2012: Oversized

Contours are moving away from the body. Silhouettes rely heavily on the look of seventies American Sportswear. Belted trenches, wide-legged jersey trousers and midi-length dresses. Wide shouldered blouses and bold masculine dress coats with long lapels. Technical parkas and super size rounded sweaters. We recognize David Bowie reflections in broad padded shoulders and zipper closures in almost any garment. Pants are huge and chimney legged and skirts are full, flared, pleated or slitted.

Proenza Schouler translates this look into iconic statements: boyfriends’ jackets in massive volumes, which make the women inside ever so tiny, skinny and lovely. Donna Karan alternates her dressed-up Marlène looks with wide sports coats, Marc by Marc Jacobs shows flared full skirts where Philip Lim translates masculine parameters into sensual feminine sportswear.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York FW2012: Eccentric

Is this the kick off for an era of extremities? Or just another flow of reminiscence of the 60s en 70s, when pastiche and thrift shops came in favour. But now it get’s the luxury make over. The spirit of frivolous, brocante, scarce collectors items and precious iconic couture with a daring twist. Anna Piaggi and Iris Apfel are the muses to watch. Ab fab furs, chunky knits, lush velvet and corduroy, rich embroidery and tapestry. Proportions are blown up, giant is the size to go for. Supersized jewellery, hyper hats and bold stoles. Some take it serious and embrace the crafts aspect, some take it modern and throw in some digital printing and finishing, where others go for the humorous edge. Marc Jacobs most extreme with fluffy supersize hats, Nicole Miller revives vintage with some Boho touches, Libertine scatters dazzling glitter over luxurious crafted textures. Entertaining, exiting and fun is a good status for fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2012: Dressed Up

Sensual form-fitted peplum dresses show that a long lean contouring tube can take on lots of characters. Twisted, folded, tucked, pinned and draped in sleek jewel toned satins with sophisticated not-so-daring slits. Sculptural minimalism makes a powerful silhouette since the fabrics’ contour and shape the body neatly. Smooth curves, pure and severe. Peter Som refers to the traditional peplum dress, Diane von Furstenberg goes more drama with severe asymmetric draping. Victoria Beckham is in control, as she always is, in compact and dense bonded jerseys where streamlining colour inserts play a trick with the eye. Donna Karan shows the most masterful tailoring. Artful compositions create a ultra modern look, clearly inspired by a retrospect on Marlene Dietrich emphasized by the Stephen Jones Fedora’s for an androgynous twist.

 

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2012: Fabric Manipulation

Kicking off this fashion season brings us a lovely series of highly manipulative as well as manipulated materials. Powerful polished jackets, high gloss and sculptural, framed, lean sensual silhouettes. Waxed and laminated fabrics have interesting stories to tell. Shrunken wool, lacquered tweed, bonded and laminated aspects. Embossed surface effects, skin textures and smooth plains.

Leather, lacquers and plastics. The shine, the pile and the pattern add a touch of sensuality and glam to stern, sporty and robust outerwear.

Alex Wang shows the most experimental and surrealist versions of all, Jason Wu goes for decorative quilting and padding, Prabal Gurung matches pile with gloss where Victoria Beckham lines the military with sensual skin. A strong statement to start with!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Kicking off this fashion season brings us a lovely series of highly manipulative as well as manipulated materials. Powerful polished jackets, high gloss and sculptural, framed, lean sensual silhouettes. Waxed and laminated fabrics have interesting stories to tell. Shrunken wool, lacquered tweed, bonded and laminated aspects. Embossed surface effects, skin textures and smooth plains.

Leather, lacquers and plastics. The shine, the pile and the pattern add a touch of sensuality and glam to stern, sporty and robust outerwear.

Alex Wang shows the most experimental and surrealist versions of all, Jason Wu goes for decorative quilting and padding, Prabal Gurung matches pile with gloss where Victoria Beckham lines the military with sensual skin. A strong statement to start with!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW12 Day 1

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Miu Miu-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-jacket or that vintage Gucci? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week, where prints are everywhere.

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