Summertrend 2012: Bare Belly

It was a definite no-go for several years, but the bare belly is back! Designers have taken last season’s cut-out-trend a little further and have created all kinds of belly-revealing fashion pieces. The bare part varies from upper stomach (Blumarine, Prada, Emilio Pucci, Dolce & Gabbana) to lower belly (Roberto Cavalli, Acne, Gaultier, Missoni), from modest to slightly tacky.

The how-to-wear part is actually quite easy. Mix your cropped top with long pants (Roberto Cavalli), shorts (D&G), pencil skirts (Prada) or maxi skirts (Emilio Pucci); everything is possible.

And though the bare belly isn’t quite the office look, there surely is no harm in showing of your abs at a fancy cocktail party. On the contrary! Finally you can show off that hidden six pack of yours. Or ehh.. at least you have a good reason to start working on that.

If you’re not so sure about this trend yet, just opt for last season’s cut-out trend, which is still very chic as well.

Summertrend 2012: Crisp White

Between the cloud burst of pastels and heavy prints, there’s another huge trend we cannot ignore this season: white.  It’s the color of innocence, softness and purity, but it ain’t all that for this summer.  This season we see the classic non- color in many different variations and shades. A whole bunch of designers try to give it a modern twist, by using it in a minimalistic way, presenting all-white looks in strong lines and shapes. Like the sculpted skirts, dresses and coats at Jil Sander and Celine.

Or what about crisp white mixed with sporty elements? They always make a great combination. Alexander Wang, Vera Wang and Stella McCartney showed us once more how and why these two work very well together, using airy, casual fabrics and loose-fitting forms. Or like Sportmax, showing a drawstring waist.

Others used this particular essence of white just so to emphasize the feminine en softness of their collection, like Louis Vuitton, John Galliano, Chloé and Emilio Pucci, showing dresses with gentle lines in white lace, tulle and brocade.

Which style do you prefer?

(Eva Dusch)

Summertrend 2012: the multi-print look

Paisley, animal and floral prints, polka dots, stripes and checks; mixing different prints in one look is one of the biggest trends of this season. We already spotted the multi-print look last season at Dries van Noten and Marni. Yet for spring/summer 2012 many more fashion designers dared to show these clashing prints in their runway looks.

For instance Blugirl, Erdem and Sportmax mixed diverse floral prints in the looks. Loewe, Burberry and Marni opted for prints that were a bit more graphical. Moschino mixed animal with floral, Prada combined polka dots with cars and Dries van Noten showed florals in the mix with some other nature-inspired prints.

It seems with this trend there are no boundaries or rules. Just pick your favorite prints and start mixing. And remember you don’t need all designer prints. Mixing your H&M printed pants with your Zara top can be just as charming, prints charming that is.

Summertrend 2012: Go Sporty!

Not a very athletic person yourself? No worries! This sporty summer trend can be worn to any occasion, not just the gym. The sport -influences are everywhere; in the materials, the details and certain items.

When it comes to materials we see thick surfer’s fabrics like neoprene popping up, lots of jersey and mesh details (Alexander Wang). Elegant items are given sporty details too, like large pockets (Versus), hoodies (Rag & Bone, Kenzo) and eye-catching zippers (Blumarine). Then there are the classic sports items like the baseball jacket (Victoria Beckham) and cycling shorts making a huge comeback. And let’s not forget the Isabel Marant wedge sneaker hype that has been going on for the last couple of months.

When it comes to color black and white – the usual suspects – are a solid option, perhaps mixed with bright tones and touches of neon. Add your sexiest heels and some sparkling jewelry and you’re ready for a chic night out. There’s always tomorrow for the real working out…

Summertrend 2012: In Your Finest PJ’s

Ever felt like skipping the fuss of getting dressed and just going out in your nightwear? Than we’ve got good news for you, ’cause hitting the streets in your finest PJ’s in the latest fashion trend. Brands like Stella McCartney and Jil Sander showed the coolest pajama’s by combining sloughy tops with lean trousers. Also, Jonathan Saunders and Antonio Marras joined in on the trend as they mixed loose fitting silky printed blouses and pants together.

Small polka dots, checks and paisley prints definitely are the way to go with this new summer look. Color-wise it seems best to opt for old-school pajama-worthy shades like gray, light blue and deep blue. Stella mixed hers with flat flip flops, yet as Jil Sander proved a chunky heel can be pretty chic with this look as well. Just don’t over-accessorize this nighttime ensemble. In fact, as shown on the runway this look doesn’t need any extras at all!

Let’s hope this ‘Bedtime Chic’ look stays around a little longer, ’cause looking on trend was never this easy.

Round Up Paris Womenswear FW2012

We have seen some supreme tailoring in Paris, resulting in sensual rounded shapes, exaggerated and challenging proportions and exciting fabrics. The world is clearly connected and the runways as well. Power looks, sculptured contours and very literary historical references were all over the place. Where we first spotted a hint of powder pink romance this was too scarce to be labelled a strong influence. The general feeling of tough powerplay and getting ready to withstand challenging times is ruling. Executed in a careful play with the existing parameters of couture, yet tailored with the contemporary flavor for bold statements. Think big.

It was not just the silhouette that takes on new dimensions this season; there is also the stage. Vuitton and Chanel confirm the feel for drama, stage setting and grand gestures. Catwalks became movie-sets, the models actors and the garments costumes. To quote one of the grand old NY ladies in the wonderful upcoming documentary: ‘Advanced Style’. ‘I dress up everyday for the theatre of my life’. That reflects clearly the attitude of women who opt for the most eccentric looks that where shown in Paris past week. These represent the icing on a cake that tasted very well, but were confirming the fact that the flavors of cakes today are not regionally bound any more. Globalization is a fact in fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

FIERCE

Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent staged fierce and perseverance. Ferocious, brave and powerful women with a provocative attitude. Forceful shades as black and red gain power by leather sheen, high polish and slick coatings.

 

SCI FI

Balenciaga and Chanel teamed up showing challenging material with a science fiction character. Priestesses of techno cult in bonded materials, plastics, liquid films and technical coatings and foils.

 

SCULPTURE

Lanvin was the master of sculpture. An expression of exalted womanliness with a generous emphasis on the curve. Comme des Garçons took it to an extreme by showing models as paper cut dolls and labeling these as ‘the future in two dimensions’.  The exaggeration of shape, the bringing back contours to the explicit essence, seems key.

 

HISTORY

Louis Vuitton takes us back in the old days by showing series of costume outfits that stand out by their absolute supreme elaboration and embellishment. Making history relevant once more by showing truly innovative skills and craftsmanship in embellishment, scattering crystals generously.

 

ORIENT

Style.com claims that Haider Ackermann has the most sophisticated color sense of anyone in Paris and we just want to confirm this. He seems to reflect on the orient; the passionate shades of the east in subtle monochrome harmonies are stunning and truly inspiring. This combined with the intricate and elaborate patterns Dries van Noten showed are great inspirations for garments that will please the crowd.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Hard & Slick

One more spot on power and hard-edge construction. Just to express the importance of this influence. Not to be pampered and cuddled in crisis. Women stand up and seem ready to fight. That is at least what designers suggest. Ready to march the battlefields. Dominatrix and fetishist and at the same time precious, upscale, ultra feminine and glamorous. From wasp-waisted x-shapes to rounded cape like sculptural silhouettes. Satin sheen, polished high gloss as well as slick. In leather, lacquer, chain mail and bonded satins. Metal, fur and rubber details. Creating looks with an almost sacral seriousness. Strict and severe and addressing the archetypal human need for religion as Gareth Pugh stated.

Monumental shaping is perfectly executed by Yves Saint Laurent, heavenly tailored by Viktor & Rolf, futuristic textured by Laurent, and it is hard to figure out if the look of Givenchy is monastic or vampire. It is an expression of utmost luxury.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Fierce

Ferocious, brave, powerful and slightly provocative. Clearly a ‘so what, don’t mess with me’, attitude. An expression of exalted womanliness in a stunning range of fierce brights is headed by Lanvin.

A generous emphasis on the curves, hourglass silhouettes and flared frocks that flow from the hips. Silhouettes are rounded, curvaceous and body enhancing. Nothing sweet about these dresses and suits though. Graphic cut outs, chunky mesh and lace layers and inserts, sculptural ruffles, flounces and peplums combined with bare or rounded exaggerated shoulder parts.

Lanvin excels in intense, delicious colors in a quest to reshape women. Yohji Yamamoto goes for contrast in streetwise silhouettes where he wraps models in red jerseys wearing flat combat boots. Balenciaga adds a surrealist touch to a traditional evening wear silhouette, sculpted it in futuristic fabrics. Mugler stays close to its roots staging super heroines shoulders and a body-loving cut.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Pastel Beauty

As Suzy Menkes questions in the NY Times: ‘Is it inevitable in a time of economic depression that fashion takes a backward look at similar moments in past? So much has changed that it is a designer’s tough task to make references relevant.’

Historic Dior, the New Look, hit the runway. Faultless collections, as icons of couture craftsmanship in impeccable tailoring, express lightness in a tender palette of soft powder-pinks. The focus is on the waist and skirts are full or flared and over-the-knee, in chiffons, silks and layers of tulle. Less exquisite and full-blown as in the 40s, making place for a contemporary, stripped-down urban sense of luxury and soft modernity, yet still ultimately recognizable.

Roland Mouret shows smart sculpted peplum silhouettes with a lady like elegance, Nina Ricci’s designer Peter Copping did find the right twist to turn the historic into the contemporary. Barbara Bui entered a more free-flowing craft aspect in a skin shaded sensual silhouette, where Bill Gaytten stays closest to the Dior heritage without obviously taking a 21^st century turn.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Paris Womenswear FW2012: Sci Fi Today

The fantastic futurist, Nicolas Ghesquière, revived and reinforced his ever-innovative message. This did not confirm yet the Parisian position as stage for the pioneering and the extreme. Designers seem to stick to their personal profiles rather then wanting to push fashion forward. Balenciaga’s surreal source of inspiration, corporate life, brought him on track of power dressing reminiscent of 70s and 80s. Futurist dressing where challenging proportions team up with not less challenging materials. Bonded fabrics that build exaggerated silhouettes.

Where Milan went for beauty Paris went for power, staging super-heroines, priestesses of techno cult and battle girls.

Balenciaga showed satin sweatshirts with spacey slogans and sci-fi prints as well as flimsy featherweight dresses combining constructing textures creating star war princess looks. At Mugler the historical oeuvre was studied carefully. Super-heroine shoulders in contouring body gloves as well as peplum silhouettes. Gareth Pugh showed rather mutant force then Girl Power in funnel necks jackets with spiked shoulders,

We feel the longing for revolution, the need for groundbreaking novelty. But still the nearest road towards that seems to lead via the past.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

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