First View Milan Womenswear SS2013: Pure Now

We open our Milan survey with a statement of minimalism and purity. Simplicity and geometry in contours and lines are sparked with reduced surprise and understated fun. Open and subtle graphic patterns, or most plain with volants, florals and dots. In simple and sharp basic white, grey and black or plain, vibrant and colorful.

It is striking that this exercise of the clean and serene, this excellence in manufacturing, seems too empty for designers and reviewers to label it just graphic and pure. They stress to look for a deeper meaning and search for the soulful, sentimental and personal. This is a noble attempt to design the now and tomorrow, detached from false sentiments of nostalgia.

Gucci shows aristocratic purism, Prada adds soul by making the graphic all tender an personal, Fendi deletes the logo’s to show clean integrity in reduced tailoring where Jil Sander celebrates the pure in light, fresh and pristine looks.

We like to label this as surprisingly gorgeous reductivism.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Patchwork

Patchwork Part 1

A patchwork parade of energetic pieces and brave design experiments. Collage couture with an edgy urban cool factor in acid and surfer brights with jet black and silver grey.  Eye-popping textures are alternated with slick sheen and metallic shimmer, fluidity with chunky, sculptural textiles.

Proenza Schouler shows experimental mixes of plains with perforated, bonded, laser cut and crocheted surfaces. Mixed with diagonally stitched strips of digital print. Diane von Furstenberg is faithful to her hippy deluxe, flirty fashion. Kaftans, wrap skirts, jodhpurs are all worn in layers. Rodarte shows collages of guipure, jacquard, jewellery and panels of printed silk.

In this print parade and mix mesh of textures there is a common vibe, which binds together a large variety of designers. But underneath this collage of design experiments we recognize the roots well planted by Balenciaga, exploring the interaction between technology and craft.

Patchwork Part 2

Cool is THE word reviewing NY fashion week. Street-y cool, retro cool, ragtag cool, hippie cool are all synonyms used by Style.com for the Peter Som collection. Yet these cover a whole generation of designs, showing oh-so-sweet looks with bohemian flavor. Icons of romance and nostalgia; puffed sleeves, frills, flounces and gatherings, receive an infusion of cool through mad mixing, digital printing, weird cutting and pasting and piling contrasting layers in different proportions.

A print parade of classics as well as digital re-editions.

Marc by Marc Jacobs shows a mix mesh of patterns all brought together with fun, flair and bravery. Phillip Lim makes street-wise collages of patterns and plains. Peter Som adds a cool twist to traditional retro where Rebecca Minkoff mixes young and sexy with bon-vivant, grandma-chic.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

 

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Optical Illusions

This is fashion’s new  season range of great looking, shape-shifting garments.

Marc Jacobs surprised with a ravishing revival of the swinging 60s. Reminding us of Andy Warhol and his Factory. Reviving the fresh looks of It girls Edie Sedgwick and Peggy Moffitt, both icons of New York cool.

Marc Jacobs played games with graphics in looks that are playful and upbeat, cartoonish and sexy. Adding modern twist, fresh swirl and a crispness that leaves no room for nostalgic sentiments. Optical illusions in neat dazzling stripes and a white variety of geometrics here in a stripy lower then low slung skirt and a jumpsuit with bold bended block stripes. Alex Wang showed boxy, fragmented outfits; cut and slashed in seemingly loose and mysteriously floating bits and pieces. Lacoste goes racy in a sexy cut out dress that plays with contours and proportions.

Fantastic entertainment thanks to the right mix of fashion magic, genius and artisanship.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear SS2013: Workwear

The workwear-theme is a direction that is going to fly at retail. Uptown clothing with slight hints of couture sensibility, fueled with a youthful vibe. Wearable clothes with an almost unfinished looseness designed for the freedom of movement. Altuzarra introduces a cape-jacket featuring sleeves with air vents. We are all pretty sure that this will be one of the most copied attributes coming seasons. From neat, upbeat authentics, twisted traditional bikers to cut-up, nonlinear patchworks, it is all about tough versus tender, showing bold square and male outlines that are nipped at the waist, schoolgirl short, crisp white collared and even showing hints of lace trimming

Altuzarra buckles up as well as buttons down which makes an exiting contrast, where Rag & Bone shows Victorians on Safari, spicing biker classics with sweet romance. The Sahara shaded Belstaff collection shows the sensual side of its motor-cross heritage.

And there is more, from the hooded tent-dresses of Yigal Azrouel to the patchwork denims and shredded khakis of Phillip Lim. All extremely shoppable.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Wow in White

It’s definitely a look to just sit in and be pretty, since it will get dirty the second you actually move in it. Yet a complete white look is absolutely stunning. It is clear many international fashion houses had the same thought. Brands like Alexander Wang, Balmain, Chloé, Dolce & Gabbana, Alberta Ferretti, Michael Kors, Lacoste, Isabel Marant and Jil Sander all sent full on white looks out on their runways. Not to mention the Alexander McQueen show, which had only white looks in it.

Some looks were very serene and sober (Lacoste, Alexander Wang, Yves Saint Laurent), others seemed extravagant and playful (McQueen, Peter Som, Doo Ri, Blumarine) as they were formed out of a mix of many different materials and pieces).

Whether you go for flat or fluffy; if you go for a white look, make sure you’re dressed in white from head to toe. Oh and be sure not to move, drink or eat something; you don’t want a coffee stain to ruin your full on white ensemble.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: New Velvet Luxury

Dark? Gothic? Forget it! Velvet is back in fashion and it’s for everybody.

This royal fabric popped up at innumerable shows like Dolce & Gabbana, Balmain, Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Etro. Not the least fashion houses , right?!

Done in many new and surprising ways the velvet looks brought some of that extra luxury to this season’s fall collections.

Aren’t those embroidered Balmain creations the ultimate form of luxury? Isn’t that deep purple Burberry jacket outstanding? And how amazing looks Yulia Kharlapanova in that green floor sweeping Gucci dress?

‘Nough said; we want to get our hands on one of these ‘new velvet’ pieces.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: The Print Suit

If there’s one fall trend we’d have to put our money on it would be the printed suit. Followed by the many printed and pajama looks of last season (designed by Marni and Dries van Noten a.o.) the print suit is now picked up by a large group of designers. It’s hard to miss this trend, since the biggest fashion houses (Miu Miu, Marni, Aquilano & Rimondi, Rochas, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton) are joining in.

Both prints and colors have become slightly more seventies, since last year. Besides, we now see multiple versions of the suit (skirt + jacket, pants + Tee or sleeveless top). One thing is certain it’s a multi functional trend you can easily make your own.

Opt for graphics, florals or other nature inspired prints. Wear the top and bottom separately if you like, add a funky hat or belt your jacket for some extra femininity.

The number of styling possibilities is endless and you’ll always look chic.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Statement Patent (Leather)

I remember wearing those adorable patent leather shoes as a child. Probably the last time I saw patent leather really being in fashion. But, as with every fashion trend, the patent leather look just had to make a comeback and for fall it’s all over the place.

Your best patent investment probably is a leather coat. To be really on trend make sure you opt for a colored one, like we saw on the runway at Marni, Alexander Wang and Tommy Hilfiger. Is this a little too much patent leather to handle? Choose for smaller fashion pieces, like a pair of pants or some shiny boots (Viktor & Rolf, Lie Sang Bong). Or try to find fashion items that are only made out of patent parts. We’ve added some less shiny looks in the mix as well, although they look like they don’t really belong to the ‘patent’ category.

One extra reason to go for patent leather is the water resistant aspect of it, which can come in quite handy during our Dutch fall (rain) season….

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Oversized Coats

Larger than life; that’s what your winter coat should be upcoming season. Designers like Proenza Schouler, Jil Sander, Max Mara and Chloé have created large volume coats out of stiff structured fabrics.

The coats do look beautiful on their own. Yet creating any kind of feminine shape for yourself, that’s the challenge. Therefore cigarette pants seem a good match and a waist belt might just become your favorite fall accessory.

Which ever way you wear your oversized coat; you’ll definitely make a fashion statement.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Mixing Materials (Shoes)

We’ve already spotted this trend in the clothing section before, but now shoes too are made out of more than one material. Designers have been mixing and matching leathers, metallics, plastics and furs to create the most eye catching footwear.

A metallic heal or pointed nose (as seen at Marni, Byblos Louis Vuitton and Just Cavalli) seems the ultimate trend (started by Louis Vuitton for Spring/Summer 2012). But why not add a touch of lace (Anna Sui), fur (Iceberg), transparent plastic (Chanel) and sparkling crystals to the mix of leathers?

It makes it easier to match your wardrobe to your shoes and a fashion faux pad will be less evident.

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