Trend Report SS2013: Modern Grunge

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Grunge is back in fashion and it has a slightly new identity. The modern way we express grunge is slightly more feminine, a little more colorful and perhaps therefore a bit more accessible too. Dries van Noten brought back the tartan print back to life and made it sexier by using it on sheer fabrics. Philip Lim gave his models a tartan print to go too as he tied it around their waists in a nineties kind of way. But there’s more to grunge than this Scottish check. Denim, dark leather, piercings and beanies are revived as well, mixed together in a lighter, more playful way then ever before. And though we still see a lot of black leather within this trend Saint Laurent and Lim proof even floral prints can portray grunge. And let’s not forget the grunge-inspired beauty; dark lips & eyes, super straight or funky frizzy hair. See our gallery for all spring/summer grunge inspiration and take a sneak peek at some of the fall/winter collections for even more on this theme.

Trend Report SS2013: Sorbet Chic

They´re feminine, flattering and look so sweet you almost want to take a bite out of them. For this year too the international runways were filled with pastel shades. From vanilla and lemon, to blueberry and pistache; sorbet chic is the color way to go. Always part of the sweet tooth team Blugirl and Blumarine, but also Valentino and Chloé went for sheer, ruffled pastel looks. As Fendi (shades of salmon and mustard work so well together), Chalayan and Mulberry opted for a cleaner kind of look. And that´s exactly how we saw these pastel hues back on the streets; less feminine (away with the ruffles and the lace) and more structured (thick fabrics, masculine shapes). Surprising in a way, yet still very natural. Which flavours are you combining this season?

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Trend Report SS2013: Japonism 2.0

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Since a few seasons now designers seem fully focused on the far east. We’ve already seen collections with oriental shapes, techniques, materials and prints, but the Asian hype not over yet. For this season the Japonism is fashion is just taken to the next level with designers being divided into two Asian inspired worlds. The ones Emilio Pucci, Carolina Herrera, Altuzarra who opt for decorative designs, traditional techniques, bold prints and color. And the designers Etro, Stella McCartney, Prada, Marni that focus on shape and structure, introducing trouser suits, shirt dresses and architectural kimono shapes. Now you don’t need to go all the way (Geisha platforms, dragon printed dresses, Obi belts) like these designers to join the Asian celebration. Just invest in a subtle embroidered blouse or a chic kimono jacket. Mixing Japanese influences with your modern wardrobe pieces like they belong together in one look, that’s the trick.

Trend Report SS2013: Checks Reinvented

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This summer is all about graphics. And besides wide stripes checks have been revised by a large number of designers. It’s gone with the tame housewife checks, the rough lumberjack prints and the folkloristic tartans; this season checks are feminine, young, fun and modern. The chicest sheer examples were probably presented by Dries van Noten, who manged to perfectly blend colors, materials and floral prints in his summer looks. At Louis Vuitton, where even the catwalk was checked, they were the key aspect of the show. Sportmax and Chanel added some sheerness, Marni started mixing, Philip Lim went for fresh checks and floral accents. Then of course there were harlequin, pied-de-poule and tartan examples both on the runway and the streets. Whether it’s a checked suit or a lumberjack blouse tied around your waist; there’s no avoiding this trend. Checks please!

Trend Report SS2013: Graphic Sixties

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Short dresses, graphic patterns, eye catching collars, lots of black & white and heavy make-up. The sixties revival was in full swing during the spring/summer 2013 presentations from the likes of Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Moschino and Cacharel. Yet it was out with the doll-ish look and in with the stronger modern sixties styles. Skirt lengths, color palettes and hairdos might have been inspired by the Mad Men era; this sixties girl is definitely more self conscious and streetwise than the girls back in the days. She is not afraid to add peep toe shoes, a giant pearl necklace or even try on a more masculine, boxy kind of ensemble. Her dresses are short yet comfortable. Her prints daring, perhaps even slightly man repelling. But this sixties girl doesn´t care. She dresses up for no one else but herself and is enjoying it to the fulliest.

Trend Report SS2013: Wow in White

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Countless fashion lovers dress head to toe in black every single day. A smart, safe style option you can never go wrong with. Now it seems there’s a pretty good alternative to all that black; fully dressing in white. Big brands like Chloé, Alexander Wang, Comme des Garcons, DKNY, Emilio Pucci, Givenchy, Jil Sander, Lacoste, Marni, Missoni and Rochas all picked up this positive, clean and summer proof trend. With looks ranging from tuxedo to sporty chic, from casual to more party inspired. The strongest SS2013 looks contain not only multiple white fashion pieces, but have different materials too. So mix your light knits with some crispy white sheer parts and add some jersey details along the way. Russian streetstyle sensations Mira Duma and Anya Ziourova have already been sporting this trend for a few seasons and it won’t be long till the rest of the world follows. Once you go completely white it just feels right.

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Fuzzy & Furry

It was the soft spot that caught our eye. Fashion is serious business nowadays, what makes it exiting to see some items that are slightly out of sinc. It is not in number that these fluffy flounces made impact. It is in proportions. These caused some of the models to look nearly as wide as they were tall. From slightly austere in compact curly astrakhans to fluffy alpaca piles, cosy camel teddy bear looks and chunky boucles. It needs slender, tall models to show these looks with elegance yet many may have found comfort and ease in these soft sheltering styles. Not just in jackets and coats, also in giant knit sweaters with twisted cables, trimmed and sleeved with high pile furs. For the more extreme we spotted wild fluffy Big Bird jackets and feathery hairdos.

Ports played with New Look proportions combining astrakhan jackets and hoodies with full circle, below the knee, skirts.  Max Mara’s cocoons where almost caricatures’, showing bulky layers of fuzzy fur-looks in giant square tops and coats. Blumarine showed boho flair in lean long-loop-knitted cardigans and pastel shaded shearling bikers. Gucci combined sensual curves with cosy egg-shaped astrakhans and pony hair jackets.

Maybe it is time to re-hype cocooning!

Stylespot is a cooperation with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Film Noir

Where fashion is more and more about garments and less about obvious trends that break with previous seasons, here we DO have a trend. It is back to the 40’s with a Film Noir twist. Not that we haven’t been there before. But here it is invigorated with a refreshing raw edge. Refined and elegant, sexy as well as romantic, revealing bits of darkness and gloom.

Miuccia Prada launched her exercise in fashion as cinema. She stages stories of woman and life. ‘Who cares about the dress?’ was her genius quote on Style.com. That is such a meaningful sentence. It is the emotion surrounding the garments that counts and nothing can light up the fire as powerful music and a filmic set.

Nevertheless this was all about lovely lean tailoring, extremely luxurious in desirable fabrics. Beautiful garments as cabans, peplum jackets and hourglass dresses with exaggerated hips. Tailleurs, fishnets and gloves to match with long curvaceous skirts.

Prada referenced Film Noir. She staged the obsessions and passions she shares with both David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock.

Gucci was darker; adding austerity, vigor and fetish. An ode to craft, embellishing power women and femmes fatales. Dsquared² dived deep into the 40’s with curvy skirt suits and shapely double-breasted jackets. All very costumy and posed.

Let’s make movies!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Fabulous Coats

It’s been a big week for coats. Remarkable that an item that independent of the weather gradually lost its position in the stores, is now THE canvas for fashion statements.

A myriad of coat styles crossed the runways – from traditional camel capes, pea coats and prep Prince of Wales jackets to decadent furs, plastic trenches and an impressive series of stern and rigid, broad shouldered power coats with nipped and belted waists. From prim tailored trenches, reinterpreted smokings to rugged utilitarian parkas.

Most obvious where the numerous terrific coats that where stripped down and traditional, inspired by menswear suiting and tailoring.

Alexander Wang cut his coats oversize and dropped the waist inspired by boxing. Phillip Lim referenced bikers; showing  motorcycle jackets, ragged shearling but also super trenches. Michael Kors themed urban warriors; fast-paced, sporty and chic in bold, boxy, sculptural shapes and Calvin Klein buckles up and goes large; with mannish shoulders in dense cloth.

Though the coat’s references are mannish the looks are generally sensual.

Great tools of empowerment.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

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