Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

When going to a Rick Owens show you can expect two things: disruptive runway spectacles, but in a way that will stick to your mind, tickles your subconscious. And perhaps your sense of responsibility. At least, we hope it will this time. It was less shocking than his last shows, but it definitely got a big message to tell you. Because it wasn’t only Leonardo Dicrapio who expressed his big concerns about the worldly environment. Rick Owens is so too. His autumn 2016 show was called Mastodon, in which he translated his feelings of uneasiness and discomfort about the environmental change, the way we treat our planet and especially that we don’t seem to care.

Although the message seems pretty clear, for the models the way through it wasn’t clear at all. Fourteen different women walked down the runway with their vision completely blurred by a cloud of hair that ballooned around their heads. Like magnificent hair balls from your cat (ugh!). Although the message of this collection might be hard, the execution was pretty soft. Soft leathers, lots of draping, twisting and folding, soft lines and silhouettes, fuzzed-out knit mohair, bubble-shaped jackets, crushed velvet capes and sleeveless tunics. Colors ranged from creamy white to splashes of pistachio green, pink, vermilion, orange, eggplant, brown and black. Even the shoes seem to be pretty comfortable: thigh-high leather sneakers. We really appreciate and support his concerns, but even more so his clothes and sense of timelessness and style.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Spaghetti bolognese, espresso and their fiery temperaments. Oh boy, do we love those Italians. But if we talk fashion, we can’t skip their nation of knitters. Something we seem to forget sometimes, but Angela Missoni will make you remember it in the best way she can. Their idiosyncratic patterns, knittings and use of bold colours make us wish we had some Italian DNA ourselves. Or at least own a beautiful house near the Riva del Garda, with a beautiful patio where we can sip our homemade wines all day long. As perfect as this sounds (we know, working on it), that’s how imperfect this collection was. Not in a bad way, but if you expected anything super matchy-matchy, here’s your sorrynotsorry. Because the many layers of color and pattern in each piece may not match in a classic way, but worked surprisingly well as a total look. Stripes, zigzags and checks on every level and in every way, from oversized cardigans, dresses, tunics and sweaters to chunky beanies and almost floor-sweeping scarves. Towards the end the more eighties and bohemian slim-cut disco dresses and plissé maxi dresses in shimmery black and silver showed they can do more than just drown us with what once made them so famous.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Jil Sander’s dress code for autumn 2016 seem to underline exactly what we love so much about the brand: practicality, sophistication, precision, quality, detail and perfect execution. Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, at the helm since 2014, understands these highly appreciated values like no other and presented us the image of a strong and powerful woman right there on a platter. If we talk about stylish authority, sign here please. We saw strong-shouldered coats, robust shaped jackets, slightly oversized suits with perfectly cut deep v-necks, below the knees hems, one-shoulder tops and asymmetry dresses that twisted and folded around the body. And who wouldn’t want to try the high-neck white midi dress? The military and androgynous references definitely showed throughout a big part of the collection. But between the ultra clean designs look 3 already showed us a hint of what was more to come: luminous and shiny materials. Spice up the office gear with some rose gold metallic, shimmery knits paired to mesh and glossy or metallic leather. Or opt for a furry sweater or dress to match with your turtle neck. It was a welcoming touch of modern elegance to such essential, minimal language. The collection had a trusted and familiair rhythm to it, us marking some favourites that could definitely make it into our wardrobe, but it won’t be the most memorable show we’ve seen.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Want to unravel the secret of power dressing? Please have a chat with Donatella. If there will ever be a women’s national army, please let them get dressed in Versace. The blonde Italian captain had her army straight in line last night, and it only contained the best soldiers in today’s business. Supermodel du jour and Versace muze Gigi Hadid opened the show, followed up by best friend Kendall Jenner, Mica Arganaraz, Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk and Adriana Lima. All models wearing military chic-inspired clothing, balancing on the sexy side as well as the sporty side. Because why make a distinction? With the athleisure trend reaching great hights last year (and still this year) those skinny, zippered suits with leather inserts, cropped tops, slim skirts, chains functioning as belts, and flowy but streamlined sleeveless dresses with slits on the side can make it to any wardrobe. The show started off with classic marine blue garments with leather detailing, slowly adding more touches of electric neon colours with every look, from fresh blue shades, block pink,  fierce yellow and coral-ish orange.  Something that was already predicted by the show venue: the room was illuminated by neon lights. Which made us pretty happy and cheerful upfront. Because power dressing isn’t particular in the suit, classy hair, high heels or total black palette. Donatella’s season’s spin on power dressing felt way more fun, comfortable and accessible. And that’s what makes this collection feel so powerful: it’s embrace of the female body and our ability to stand our grand without falling into the high fashion clichés. This is as much ready to wear as it can be.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

If you were ever wondering if it’s possible to wear a chandelier as a dress? Well, here’s your answer: yes you can. Even better: you áre the chandelier itself. Or follow Sia’s lead, swinging from the chandelier and live like tomorrow doesn’t exist (if you haven’t seen the Carpool session with Sia and James Cordon, please do so as she sings like it’s her last day). And if that was the case (don’t get scared now, it’s just hypothetical), why not dress like if it’s your last day. Make it big, make it bold, make it edgy and never back down, even when everything’s on fire. Picturing the Moschino logo flaming in orange letters, can someone please call 911- the fire department? Jeremy Scott has lit up Milan city. Which he did with giant theatrical dresses with satin bows in purple, yellow and pink fastened with shimmering brooches, strapless ruffle dresses combined with a t-shirt underneath, a black floor-sweeping dress embellished with chains, a pink strapless dress with a leather bodice. If you’re more into playing it cool on the down low, you have the zip-adorned black leather, lots of denim items, hotpants, t-shirts with playful Moschino prints, fishnet tights and biker boots. Finish it off with some big accessories like a ‘Warrior Milano’ belt, leather caps, black leather gloves and as many chains as you can get. It was only towards the end that everything got the fire lighter treatment: burnt holes and sweeps of black and grey. But what would you expect with those fierce attitudes and cigarettes hanging in those ears? So we couldn’t help but playing Jimi Hendrix’s Fire over and over again in our heads. ‘Just play with me and you won’t get burned. Let me stand next to your fire. Let me stand next to your fire.’ 

Recap New York Fashion Week Womenswear FW2016/2017

New York, New York. Concrete jungle where dreams are made of. Especially fashion dreams that is, for the last few days at least. What a week! While London is already strutting and twirling down the catwalk, we quickly look back on some of the biggest trends and most spoken and surprising moments (Lady Gaga! Marc Jacobs! Oh my god!) of the sartorial event. Study up and get ready.

1. Yeezy madness
Instagram. Facebook. Snapchat. Twitter. Medison Square Garden that was exploding with excitement. Kanye took over the whole universe. What can we say? We completely ran out of conversation topics except for this. His beautiful dark twisted fantasy got him in one straight line to No.1 on every surface (the clothes, the album) and beyond.

2. Lady Gaga on the go
Okay, so we couldn’t stop talking about the fully packed A-list front row at Marc Jacobs show and the crazy shoe platforms (especially how to gracefully walk on these), but the actual talk of the town was -of course- Lady Gaga making her New York Fashion Week runway debut. ‘Lady Gaga on the go’ as some of them stated.

3. See now, buy now
The world of fashion is changing more than ever and we notice and increasing number of brands going for a ‘see now, buy now’ approach. Focus is shifting towards consumers instead of the fashion professionals, which is why collections are shown in current season, aligning with its retail schedule, rather than six months from now. Which makes it possible for us hungry fashion buyers to order the collections and our favourite runway pieces as soon as they hit the runway. Like Proenza Schoulers ‘The Early Edition’ and Michael Kors ‘Ready to wear, ready to go’ collection, and many other commanding officers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Tom Ford and Rebecca Minkoff.

4. Riri’s Runway
Yep, the American superstar couldn’t make it to the Grammy’s, perhaps it had something to do with her catwalk debut. It’s hard -okay, impossible- to top the Kanye Yeezy madness, but still she got the whole fashion crowd buzzing over her Fenty x Puma collection. All the important ingredients were there: Anna Wintour in the front row, Naomi Campbell on her side and Gigi Hadid as her muze. The collection was not very surprising (black and white sporty-sexy looks with a huge street wear factor mixed with gothic elements) yet it was in some looks (giant grey furry bumbags and rucksacks and sweatpants worn with suspenders and fluffy hoodies).

5. Let me entertain you
Of course, the clothes itself make your succes. But the importance of entertainment must not be underestimated. It’s 2016 for god’s sake and everyone has an Instagram that needs to be updated. So bring in the show elements and theatrical settings. Like Thom Browne’s walk in the park, the choreography at Moncler and, sorry we have to name him again, Kanye’s incredible show/album release.

THE TRENDS
1. That socks!
It’s not that often that socks play such a prominent role in our outfits. Let alone on the catwalk.
But you better change your mind and score some sporty, chic or doll-like pairs that perfectly match with your shoe collection.

2. Shine on
Sequins and shimmers for winter? Oh, yes! Take a look at Joseph Altuzarra, Michael Kors, Derek Lam and Rodarte to check out some new and unexpecting ways to integrate them into your winter wardrobe. And what about the metallic suits and dresses at Oscar de la Renta and Marc Jacobs, the almost floor-length gold swirling skirts at Ralph Lauren and J.Mendel’s glimmering dresses? It definitely lights up the long and dark days.

3. The statement coat
Preparing for winter means finding you the perfect coat. And once you’ve found it, you most likely will cherish it forever (we do!). No wonder the main piece of almost every winter collection is a good -corrrection: outstanding- coat that needs to have a head turning elegance. What else helps you bare against the frigid temperatures and makes you feel sexy and confident at the same time.

4. Protect your neck
While Busta Rhymes was more into breaking things, Wu-Tang Clan made a track that perfectly rimes with one of the biggest trends for upcoming winter season: protect your neck with fashionable garments like polo necks, scarves, chokers (no joke) and especially turtle necks under sweaters, jackets and dresses (huuuuge trend!).

5. It’s shearling my darling
If your statement coat isn’t supposed to be long, lean and classy, than perhaps you have to think more towards the classic but always cool aviator-style jacket seen at Lacoste and Altuzarra. But we definitely dig the bomber style version of Rag&Bone too.

6. Blackout
Black lips, black eyes, black clothes. Get ready to get in touch with your darker side, wether in a gothic, chic, romantic or street wear cool ambiance. Check out Marc Jacobs, Rihanna for Puma, Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Philip Lim to choose your exact direction.

7. Jolly Jewelry
Bring in the statement pieces to adorn yourself with, like Rodarte’s cuff of calla lilies, silver beaded nineties chokers and swinging look-at-me bell earrings.

8. They plaid us
But for once, in a good way. Take a look at Victoria Beckham, Calvin Klein, Rachel Zoe and Rag&Bone on how to wear the plaid in a much simpler and cleaner way than you might used to. Check check check.

9. Brush off your shoulder
Get ready for some sexy silhouettes. Shoulders are still the erogenous zone if you ask the fashion forecasters. If you’re not the type of person to show too much bare skin, this way of dressing might be your call.

10. Follow the furs
Wether it be real or fake, make sure you cover yourself up in some fluffy garments that make you the perfect victim to cuddle (how fun!). Opt for a full-on furry coat or a classy collar. You thought this was already pretty striking? Hold on, you’re not there yet. Because make sure it’s very colourful too. We put all our money on Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung, Rodarte and J.Crew.

Want to dive a little deeper into every collection? Check out all our show reviews.

Trend Report FW2016: Hot & Bothered

Don’t we all own at least one big cosy jumper we would just love to live in for the rest of the winter? Long sleeves, high collar, natural shade, made out of the softest of fabrics. Yes, you know what we’re talking about. The one you just wear over your pj’s on your working from home-days or Netflix-evenings. Well, turns you’re allowed to wear that favorite fluffy jumper outside the house as well this winter. Big names like Stella McCartney, Hermes, Celine and DKNY are with you on this one. Who knew cosy and comfy would be up in the a/w best dressed category after all? Wrap it up, tuck it in, let us begin!

Trend Report FW2016: Minimum input, maximum output

While we can already smell spring’s maximalism in the air, we’re experiencing the final wave of minimalism. Less is more, so we never forget. How normcore, sober and serene ruled the fashion world for season after season. How all color seemed banned, as well as prints and chunky accessories. Max Mara, Victoria Beckham and Hugo Boss show us once more how cool keeping it clean can be. With a monochrome palette, some luxurious pieces of clothing and statement shoes/bags, that is. Nothing to distract you from the perfect modern, winter proof silhouette. Alright, perhaps a pair of the chunkiest earrings (Marni) and a big waistbelt (Fendi) then. After all it’s minimalism 7.0 we’re looking at.

Trend Report FW2016: School Girl

Skater skirts, cashmere jumpers, perfect little blazers; Carven, Diesel, G-star and Dior are betting on some first class (literally) school girl looks this winter. Navy blue, crispy white, preppy like Hilfiger, Replay, Paul & Joe and Lacoste, yet given a little twist. Some shiny sequins and lace-up boots as seen at Giambattista Valli. Or skirt details in leather (Replay) and lace (Louis Vuitton). Becoming the teacher’s favorite just got a lot easier. Just don’t try too hard, give your look an effortless teenage touch and we bet you’ll be this year’s high school sweetheart!

Trend Report FW2016: Gender Blender

Fully buttoned, worn wit a turtle neck; the female two piece doesn’t have to state the obvious sex appeal anymore. With the whole gender blending game going on even the misses can rock the ultimate tweed pants and jacket. Details like a high ponytail (Christian Dior), a red lip (Saint Laurent), an open shoe (Louis Vuitton) or small belt (Hermes) are enough to give her outfit it’s femininity. Checked (Paul & Joe), colored (Dior) or army inspired (Chloé) inspired by his wardrobe you’ll be amazed how strong of a look you can pull off. Just don’t be afraid to loose some of that in your face sexiness, have your pick from one of the above and suit yourself!

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