Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

It was the second time this season we had to say goodbye to a talented designer. More than a week after Raf Simons left in tears, it was now Stefano Pilati’s turn to present his last collection for Yves St. Laurent. After seven years he definitely left the fashion stage. A place some people think he should have left much earlier since his collections were not always well received. despite all the critic, it was thanks to Pilati that the house of YSL made profit after years in the red.

Pilati’s last collection was one of dark sensuality, something he presented before. The models looked perfectly glamorous and they were dressed in a style of aggressive femininity, thin black silhouettes, cinched waists and lots of leather. Jackets had strong shoulders, pants and skirts were lean and sleek. More intimidating were the dresses in colored mesh, like the harness of a knight.

 

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Stefano Pilati kept it clean and classic for YSL ss2012. He started with impeccable tailored suits in navy where the message was in the details of lapels, cut and fabrics. Then he switched to sportswear inspired items all in white followed by a selection of experimental safari-inspired outfits in khaki.

It all resulted in military-style jackets, double-breasted coats and funnel-necked shirts. Large cargo pockets were placed  on pants, and curved all the way around the back of blazers. Safari jackets are all over the runways, and of course Pilati did not miss a chance to use an iconic YSL style.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

That was a clear collection Stefano Pilati presented for Yves St. Laurent. He opened with Prince of Wales-checks neatly tailored into coats, capes and suits. Jackets were mixed with pleated miniskirts and drop-waist dresses. One was done in patent leather with a cocoon back and a checked skirt with a blue hem. This collection didn’t refer to Mod or schoolgirls as we’ve seen in other collections. This was for grown up women. Accessories added the right touch: chain chokers and suede laced up boots.

The checks came back in the whole collection, sometimes blown up and even with degradé-effect on fur.  The second part of the show was about texture: dots punched out of patent leather tunics with different densities of tweed mixed in. It all culminated in a run of white silk crepe evening wear: fluid jumpsuits with halter necks and trompe l’oeil bustiers, ruffle collared backless dresses belted in more gold and one huge white marabou jacket to match.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2010

The Yves St. Laurent-show started promising with a variation on the Little Black Dress with cape and a black three piece suit. Such a clean and classic look would be just on trend, as more houses are aiming at the new sporty minimalism. And no other house has a history in tailored sportswear and classic Parisian sensibility as the house of Yves St. Laurent.

But somehow designer Stefano Pilati tried too hard to be classic and modern, it needs a creative talent to make conservative sporty chic look dynamic and not dated. The long skirts however looked dull, the white shirts were dowdy and the plastic capes and eveningwear sexless. It looked like the collection was made for a nun instead of a woman of the world. Also because of the caped black forms, the head-coverings, the white cotton and heavy chain pendants.

Stefano Pilati told reporters that the collection was all about protection and that is was partly an homage to YSL and the tailleur. Maybe he should take a look at the retrospective on YSL that soon will open in the Petit Palais in Paris – there’s still a lot to learn from the old master.