Y3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2012

At Y3 it wasn’t immediately clear what kind of clothes were sent down the runway. Jackets looked like dresses, shorts appeared to be skirts. There was a lot of asymmetry going on and on top of that everything was styled in an unconventional manner. Tulle skirts worn with trousers, parka coats over leggings and so on.

As always with Yohji Yamamoto the red-lipped girls appeared sporty and tough. Walking the runway (on all kinds of different sneakers) with their hands in their pockets, the seemed careless. Yet this time around there was a slightly feminine touch to some of the looks. Yohji (and the new creative director Dirk Schönenberg) came up with some silk outfits and gave their designs ruffles. They were a far cry from the super feminine Valentino ruffles, but they did add a (welcome) girly twist to the collection.

The color palette, lots of black, army green and some red Tartan prints, was just perfect for both men and women. The male models sported basic sportswear looks, with a sleeveless trench and a checked suit being the most outspoken pieces for men.

It was a typical Y3 collection, nothing more, nothing less.

 

Y3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

For fall Yohji Yamamoto was inspired by a journey, by traveling around the world. In his opinion young people don’t travel enough. ‘My generation used to be called hippies. Now, young people are backpacking. By walking in the world, young people can see what’s happening, what’s going on. Don’t catch all your information from TV, or too quickly. Just walk. Go around’, he told The Cut.

And with this thought in the back of his head Yamamoto designed a very streetwise and cool collection. His boys and girls looked tough in his designs, walking the runway with their hands in their pockets.

It almost seemed as if Yamamoto took his traveling inspiration literally, since there were outfits for all types of weather conditions. Sporty black dresses, long skirts, Tartan printed shirts,  leather jackets, super thick menswear pants and comfy jersey items formed a nice, youthful Y3collection.

Caps, scarves, bags and big zippers gave the collection an even bigger street chic appeal and proved that even though Yamamoto is 67, he still knows how to Wow his customers.

Y-3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2010

On the most romantic day of the year, Valentine’s day, Yohji Yamamoto showed us a very dark side of love.

It all began so well with models handing out red roses to all people sitting front row. Yet after that it turned dark as the Prisoner of Love theme took over.

On his designs Yamamoto had written text like ’23 Years in prison – 20 = Y3′ and ‘Marriage – Love = Run’. Combined with Paul Simon’s track ’50 ways to leave your lover’ it all made up for a dejected vision of love.

Still, the dark side of love seemed to work for Yamamoto. His unexpected proportions, layering and mix and matching never looked this good. We liked his long coats, loose pants, asymmetric skirts and loose woolly capes. And through his use of black and gray the designer managed to add some refreshing bright red, orange, yellow and blue.

Lots of black and white stripes represented the Prisoner of Love theme and on some shoes, bags, hoodies and belts they stood for Adidas.

It appeared that after a miserable year in which Yamamoto almost went bankrupt the designer was able to show more of himself in the Y-3 collection for Adidas.

The collection appealed to us. Though it didn’t necessarily need the masks, bandit scarfs and the fight at the end in which Yamamoto punched a male model down and got punched by a female model himself.

Y3 Catwalk Fashion Show FW09

Y3 Catwalk Fashion Show SS09

Y-3 Catwalk Show

With a large wall of ice as a backdrop Y-3 sent out a strong collection where functionality met elegance, like baggy suits in big tartans and draped layers of Chanel tweed jackets. The first flagshipstore will open february the 5th in the Meatpacking District in New York.