Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

When going to a Rick Owens show you can expect two things: disruptive runway spectacles, but in a way that will stick to your mind, tickles your subconscious. And perhaps your sense of responsibility. At least, we hope it will this time. It was less shocking than his last shows, but it definitely got a big message to tell you. Because it wasn’t only Leonardo Dicrapio who expressed his big concerns about the worldly environment. Rick Owens is so too. His autumn 2016 show was called Mastodon, in which he translated his feelings of uneasiness and discomfort about the environmental change, the way we treat our planet and especially that we don’t seem to care.

Although the message seems pretty clear, for the models the way through it wasn’t clear at all. Fourteen different women walked down the runway with their vision completely blurred by a cloud of hair that ballooned around their heads. Like magnificent hair balls from your cat (ugh!). Although the message of this collection might be hard, the execution was pretty soft. Soft leathers, lots of draping, twisting and folding, soft lines and silhouettes, fuzzed-out knit mohair, bubble-shaped jackets, crushed velvet capes and sleeveless tunics. Colors ranged from creamy white to splashes of pistachio green, pink, vermilion, orange, eggplant, brown and black. Even the shoes seem to be pretty comfortable: thigh-high leather sneakers. We really appreciate and support his concerns, but even more so his clothes and sense of timelessness and style.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

If you’re planning on making autumn 2016 a opulent season, then make Dries van Noten your date. Without going too much into detail (or heaving a seat in the front row) you could immediately feel this collection had a wild and mad sense to it. The reason? Dries his muse this time was Marchesa Luisa Casati (1881-1957) the heiress, socialite and countless artist’s muse. A beacon of the belle époque and considered the brightest star in European society as she was well-known for her legendary parties in Venice and Paris. So for this collection to really feel and understand it, every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

The tall and skinny Casati was not considered a beauty, but she was very often the perfect subject for artists as they vainly tried to capture her aristocratic eccentricity. She led a life just as unusual and extraordinary as her outfits. Which resulted in a bold and definite luxurious collection full of leopard prints(it seemed she sometimes was completely naked beneath her furs), rich coloured velvet boots and trousers, decorative pearls not only on gloves but also as an ornate lattice pearl tabard coming from underneath a oversized sweater, sequins, ornate jacquards, flared cream coloured trousers, sporting blazers, heavy mannish overcoats, flowing pyjama’s, silk dresses and feather chokers (it is said that she once wore a freshly-killed chicken as a stole or that her driver had to kill a chicken to pour the blood down her long white arms). Not to mention those black smooched eyes on a pale skin. Like we said: every bit of a sense of drama is more than welcome.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Let’s hear it for the Lions is the theme of Dutch designer Liselore Frowijn’s collection for fall 2016. Art has been an important source of inspiration in het work and for this collection Liselore Frowijn would like to give a big shout out to all feminine artists making a change and showing  a different perspective. The collection is an homage to all  strong women who are living or have been living in this world, with Niki de St. Phalle as a muse. The beautiful round volumes this artist created with her Nana’s together with the energetic and edgy approach the women Frowijn admires have towards life formed an inspiration to this collection.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Jil Sander’s dress code for autumn 2016 seem to underline exactly what we love so much about the brand: practicality, sophistication, precision, quality, detail and perfect execution. Designer Rodolfo Paglialunga, at the helm since 2014, understands these highly appreciated values like no other and presented us the image of a strong and powerful woman right there on a platter. If we talk about stylish authority, sign here please. We saw strong-shouldered coats, robust shaped jackets, slightly oversized suits with perfectly cut deep v-necks, below the knees hems, one-shoulder tops and asymmetry dresses that twisted and folded around the body. And who wouldn’t want to try the high-neck white midi dress? The military and androgynous references definitely showed throughout a big part of the collection. But between the ultra clean designs look 3 already showed us a hint of what was more to come: luminous and shiny materials. Spice up the office gear with some rose gold metallic, shimmery knits paired to mesh and glossy or metallic leather. Or opt for a furry sweater or dress to match with your turtle neck. It was a welcoming touch of modern elegance to such essential, minimal language. The collection had a trusted and familiair rhythm to it, us marking some favourites that could definitely make it into our wardrobe, but it won’t be the most memorable show we’ve seen.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2016, Day 5

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Womenswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2016, day 4

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Womenswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear FW2016, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Womenswear Fashion Week.

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

Want to unravel the secret of power dressing? Please have a chat with Donatella. If there will ever be a women’s national army, please let them get dressed in Versace. The blonde Italian captain had her army straight in line last night, and it only contained the best soldiers in today’s business. Supermodel du jour and Versace muze Gigi Hadid opened the show, followed up by best friend Kendall Jenner, Mica Arganaraz, Karlie Kloss, Irina Shayk and Adriana Lima. All models wearing military chic-inspired clothing, balancing on the sexy side as well as the sporty side. Because why make a distinction? With the athleisure trend reaching great hights last year (and still this year) those skinny, zippered suits with leather inserts, cropped tops, slim skirts, chains functioning as belts, and flowy but streamlined sleeveless dresses with slits on the side can make it to any wardrobe. The show started off with classic marine blue garments with leather detailing, slowly adding more touches of electric neon colours with every look, from fresh blue shades, block pink,  fierce yellow and coral-ish orange.  Something that was already predicted by the show venue: the room was illuminated by neon lights. Which made us pretty happy and cheerful upfront. Because power dressing isn’t particular in the suit, classy hair, high heels or total black palette. Donatella’s season’s spin on power dressing felt way more fun, comfortable and accessible. And that’s what makes this collection feel so powerful: it’s embrace of the female body and our ability to stand our grand without falling into the high fashion clichés. This is as much ready to wear as it can be.

Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

If you were ever wondering if it’s possible to wear a chandelier as a dress? Well, here’s your answer: yes you can. Even better: you áre the chandelier itself. Or follow Sia’s lead, swinging from the chandelier and live like tomorrow doesn’t exist (if you haven’t seen the Carpool session with Sia and James Cordon, please do so as she sings like it’s her last day). And if that was the case (don’t get scared now, it’s just hypothetical), why not dress like if it’s your last day. Make it big, make it bold, make it edgy and never back down, even when everything’s on fire. Picturing the Moschino logo flaming in orange letters, can someone please call 911- the fire department? Jeremy Scott has lit up Milan city. Which he did with giant theatrical dresses with satin bows in purple, yellow and pink fastened with shimmering brooches, strapless ruffle dresses combined with a t-shirt underneath, a black floor-sweeping dress embellished with chains, a pink strapless dress with a leather bodice. If you’re more into playing it cool on the down low, you have the zip-adorned black leather, lots of denim items, hotpants, t-shirts with playful Moschino prints, fishnet tights and biker boots. Finish it off with some big accessories like a ‘Warrior Milano’ belt, leather caps, black leather gloves and as many chains as you can get. It was only towards the end that everything got the fire lighter treatment: burnt holes and sweeps of black and grey. But what would you expect with those fierce attitudes and cigarettes hanging in those ears? So we couldn’t help but playing Jimi Hendrix’s Fire over and over again in our heads. ‘Just play with me and you won’t get burned. Let me stand next to your fire. Let me stand next to your fire.’ 

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2016

 

Massimo Giorgetti (MSGM) has geared up to show his second main collection for the luxury Italian label on the runway. He’s following up Peter Dundas as creative director, who was at the helm of the brand for seven years and has left to take charge at Roberto Cavalli. His aim: to keep working on and developing the playful, childish and sometimes crazy looks that’s signature for the Italian Brand, but at the same time finding new routes to fit this. As an Pucci woman you’re not afraid of any eye-popping hues (Dundas has transformed the brand into a hyper-coloured gathering) or eccentricity, and that’s exactly what he showed for this season: lots of colour and print, but in a less sexy and poolside glamour way than we used to. So it was quite surprising he put his focus on outerwear and active wear, something the brand wasn’t particular familiair with. But hey, that’s what exploring new path ways is about and Giorgetti took a good shot at it.  Most visible in the skiwear staples like zip-up leggings, onesies, oversized ski-style sweaters and it was impossible to miss the alpine and mountain-range prints presented in almost every look. Sometimes really obvious, sometimes more arty translated in a scene of colours on easy-going sweaters, Pucci-logoed shirts, shearling coats, puffer jackets, silk-printed midi dresses, pyjama-style separates and knee-length skirts. What better way to ensure your safety by wearing such bold colours and prints, at least they will find you in a sec. Would that be most practical in the form of a yellow velvet floor-length coat, blue leather knee-high boots and a colour blocking skirt? Probably not. But you can never change the luxury hugging Saint-Tropez DNA of a Pucci woman. So who’s ready for a well deserved champagne break in the après-ski?

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