Recap Paris Fashion Week FW2016

As the old saying goes, it ain’t over ’til Paris sings. And boy oh boy, did she sang. The fashion gods have spoken their final words, the trends are set, no blanc pages left in our notebooks and our iPhones filled with Insta-material for at least two decades. Alors, let’s take a look on what the City of Light had to offer us for next winter.

1. Velvet
A big trend in every fashion capital. It will get a touchy season for sure, thanks to Kenzo, Dries van Noten and Miu Miu. And we won’t go to sleep before we get our hands on those Haider Ackermann velvet suits.

2. Suit yourself
Once a lady, not always a lady. At least, not in the classic and girly sense. We can pull of a suit just as good as a man, maybe even better, thanks to Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Hermes. Let’s get in touch with your more masculine side. The options our countless and f-f-f-ancy.

3. Layer the dress
It’s fun to take the classic dress out of its comfort zone and put it in a whole new and different context. And see, it can still be sexy as hell if you wear it with a turtleneck, sweater or shirt underneath. Take note at Carven, Lanvin and Rochas.

4. Powerpuff girls
Balenciaga, Stella McCartney and Chanel all told us it’s okay to exaggerate and make yourself a few times bigger. Don’t be shy gals.

5. Drop the shoulders
Shoulders play a major part this season. Although this is the right time to exaggerate, we also felt something something for the pushed-back necklines and sliding off shoulder look. Holla at Dior, Celine and Rick Owens.

6. Baller boots
By far the best shoes to tackle the nasty cold (and still look fabulous). Wether you’re in the city or out on the country. We would like to shop them at Givenchy, Sonia Rykiel and Chanel.

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

It’s needless to say that velvet is a huge trend this season.The venue of the miu miu show was even designed with velvet seats in orange, yellow, blue and green. It already gave us clue of what was about to come (and something very comfy for our bum to sit on after so many shows, good thinking Miuccia).  So of course it didn’t surprise when the ribbed velvet outdoor jackets came along. It makes us wanna skip summer and go straight on to winter 2016 (okay, that’s a lie, but hello wish list material). Just like another big player in this show: denim. If you’re planning on taking your love for the blue allrounder up to a next level, Miuccia gave you plenty of inspiration too choose from. The blue garment was in almost every look, wether on top, bottom or head to toe denim, just make sure you wardrobe counts some denim jackets, blazers, maxi-skirts, blouses and trenches. Cause nothing more versatile, wether you combine it with white shirting, military tailoring, waxed outdoor jackets, tweeds and wallpaper jacquards.  The third big player were pearls, seen on purses, belts, the rims of several eyewear and pearl-encrusted sandals. And we couldn’t help but silently laugh when seeing the pearly baubles on top of those fluffy flip-flops. In the end, that’s what Miuccia wanted, she told everyone. She wanted it to be fun and get people excited. No wonder why the label also recently launched a new app called Miu Miusic (great name by the way), bringing together music, technology, graphic design, and the label’s runway shows. This woman knows how to play her business on every level and it’s great fun for sure.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

It’s hard to top the Zoolander surprise appearance during their last FW2015 show. Derek Zoolander and Hansel (aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson) showed up at the end of the Valentino show, each doing his world-known “Blue Steel.” It took the social media crowd and fashion world by storm. Would they pull this off again, without this huge crowd-pleasing element? The show may not have been as spectaculair and entertaining, its theme was about performance though, yet on another level. They dragged us into the magic world of ballet and modern dance, inspired by the movement of ballet dresses and dance films such ‘They shoot horses don’t they?’ With Vanessa Redgrave. Something that fits perfectly with the Valentino signature of romance, grace, sensuality and underlining your femininity. A world that asks for the ultimate perfection on every surface, a language that’s fluently spoken in Maison Valentino. But we can all remember the Black Swan movie, and perfection sometimes drives you to the most dark places, so it felt like this collection was exploring both sides. Delicate tulle skirts with golden stars referred to the punk ballet style of Karole Armitage, an embellished black tutu worn over a chunky knit, laminated and artistic fringes dancing around the body, tutus worn as meagre tops and the guitar cross body straps. But also crystal-embroidered nude-color tulle dresses, fragile transparencies, silk stockings, fluid draperies, pale pink silk dresses and a blush coloured sequin dress worn over knitwear. We counted so many knockouts it’s impossible to mention them all. Their goal was to let us be in the moment, and only this moment. Which wasn’t a hard job with such a mesmerising collection in front of you and that was supported by an actual pianist who is playing compositions by John Cage and Philip Glass.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

“Our  KENZO  woman  for  Fall-Winter  2016/17  approaches  life  with  nonchalant conviction.  She tackles every adventure with an open mind and with respect for where she has previously tread”, reads the message of designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon. Their collection was inspired by the manga character Sailor Moon, a group of Japanese schoolgirls in Tokyo who combat evil forces and stop them from taking over the universe. Each ‘soldier’ has a transformation sequence which grants her a uniform in her own theme-colors and her own powers. Sound quite spectacular right? So it was. It was one big line-up of ultra cool and feminine school girls walking down the runway, battling the world in some of the coolest outfits such as flowy dresses, velvet pants and skirts, cigarette pants and pumps with a rock ‘n’ roll vibe, a blue parka with hoodie detail and shirts and dresses with XXL ruffles. But they also wanted to create a collection which observes some of the house’s most notable codes. Thus we noticed some reworked archive prints and details: the Kenzo tiger was roaring again, with prints in gold and pink (even lavender tiger prints on nails, so cool!) and the famous Kenzo flowers (iris and dandelions), layered with psychedelic checks. The strong yet soft colour palette and use of fabric was stunning: navy, rust, lavender and ‘uniform’ gray swathe fabrics of flannel, satin, velvet, faux astrakhan, corduroy and vinyl. You better be careful, cause the Kenzo woman can take on anything and anyone (did we just hear someone roarrrr?!).

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

Let a lady walk down the stairs, and you already gained half of the points on the sexy part. No wonder, many fashion designers choose a staircase as a runway. Just like Hedi Slimane did for his Fall 2016 collection. Although rumour has it the designer will soon be leaving Saint Laurent and this would be his last RTW-collection for the giant fashion house, the answer wasn’t present in his show. Not even a clue. After two pitch-black rocker chick’s wardrobe collections, this show was a sharp turn from everything but grungy. Slimane took us back to the late Eighties this time, unveiling top of the bill glam-luxe looks that scream anything but modesty. Plunged necklines, XXL belted waists with flourishing side-bows or vulgar gold, poufed skirts, one shoulder mini-dresses, sequin smokings, leather motorcycle jackets, metallics and all sorts of shimmer, animal prints, flounced tiers on dresses, sheer black tights, stiletto pumps and get ready for the exagerrated shoulder treatment on any level. All looks were accompanied by slicked-back hair, red lipstick, dark eyes and big triangular earrings. It almost felt like an actual show by Yves Saint Laurent himself, back in the days. Once outside the venue it took a while to get back into 2016 reality.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2016

No fuss clothing. Understated seduction. Practical chic. Sports meet sexy. That’s Stella McCartney. But also, how to look good and harm less. For almost fifteen years McCartney thrives on her mother’s vegetarian principles, tackling the challenges of trying to be slightly more responsible as a luxury fashion brand in the highest regions of the industry. No use of any skins. And until this very day, she has proven what’s she’s capable of. No lack of quality or style whatsoever. And this show was yet another what she does best: creating more and more moments of awareness towards our planet. But as complicated her brand might be, graceful simplicity is what we see on the catwalk. While Snaxx’ tune ‘Get on ya tofu’ echoes from the speakers, the models strutted down the runway in her signature slouchy but feminine looks. Plissé flares, pleated skirts, cheeky but romantic graphics of swans on dresses and skirts. She played a lot with layers and proportion, from bomber jackets worn over a coat, a deep blue knee-length sweater over a skirt, fluid dresses with ruffled strokes or silk and lace metallic slipdresses. And of course we spotted those big puffer jackets and parka’s. No surprise there, as we’ve seen them already many times here in Paris. But she did surprise us a little though, as they were made from velvet fabric and stuffed with feather-free wadding. Quite a statement to make. Needless to say though, as the music already scouted ‘I’m vegan bitch’, the show notes were right. This collection was absolutely signature Stella.

Dorhout Mees Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Dutch galore on the Paris Runway! After Viktor & Rolf, Jan Taminiau, Iris van Herpen and Ilja Visser, now it was up to Dorhout Mees. And there she was, Esther Louise Dorhout Mees showing her collection in the big arena, rubbing shoulders with industry heavyweights like Galliano and Givenchy. Was she still able to breath and smile? Oh, yes!

She herself describes her signature style as a crossing between sculptural silhouettes and femininity but still wearable and sophisticated.This collection was called ‘nubivagant’ which means nothing but wandering in the clouds, moving through the air. Oh, how we wish we could sometimes, especially in these creations. The theme echoed in her geometric shapes, curvy lines, clever folds, superimposed layers, natural prints and use of colours and luxury fabrics. The interaction and contrasts in form and material was pretty interesting. Like heavy, uniform materials against soft and transparant fabrics, the screaming red with its grey and black counterparts, cut-outs in places you would never expect them when it comes to form and function (although, your arm-pits seem like a pretty smart option). Or what about super wearable high-waisted paints and a cropped top decorated with exaggerated shoulders almost like festive pompoms. But hey, a cloud never explains its weird and alway changing forms right? It just is and it goes with the flow. If there must be one person floating on cloud 9, it must be Esther. As humble as she stepped out to receive her well-deserved applause, just as big is her future plan. Her first concrete steps towards an international career started of with a big bang, thanks to Lady Gaga and Paris Fashion Week. We can’t hide our curiosity for what her next step will be.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

How nervous must Demna Gvasalia have been presenting his first collection for Balenciaga today in Paris’s Canal +’s former studio? We don’t know, but it didn’t particularly show in his on point collection of clothes. As a new creative director you first should work your way through as many archives as possible to understand the essence of the brand, before mixing your own DNA to it. Which he did. Mixing his eye for urban street wear and modern day style(the influence of his Vetements collective) with the classic shapes from Balenciaga‘s archives. And it seemed quite a match, to say the least.

The collection was build on couture attitudes transforming a modern, utilitarian wardrobe, the show notes red. “How to place Balenciaga’s legacy in a new context? And what is sophisticated?” Questions Gvasalia kept in mind while designing. To set the tone, the show began with many padded hip suits, slit skirts and dresses in grey and brown tones, all with the familiair hourglass silhouette. Half way through (look 8) the streetwear touch became more noticeable, with oversize puffers and bad weather outerwear. Afterwards, everything started shrinking again, showing some head-to-toe floral ensembles, how to handle the half-tuck oversized shirt (owned by many fashion editors) and we counted many accessory options, like the giant platform leather boots and exaggerated chained sunglasses. But what we liked most is that something so easy as pulled off the shoulder jackets and pushed-back necklines can give you a whole different, almost sensual, but look in a small, everyday gesture. Who doesn’t want to wear her trenches or shearlings like this too this spring?! We know we do.

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

With his exceptional feel for colour and his trained and unique eye for mixing prints, Haider Ackermann haven’t let us down any second. His army of female soldiers marched steadily on his music of the Oscar-winning film, The Revenant. But why should a army always be so harsh and distant? Ackermann searched for more grace, softness, elegance and happiness while still presenting strong women you don’t want to mess with (at least, we don’t). And that contrast between those two worlds was perfectly executed here in Paris. Super-skinny trousers with velvet at the front and leather in the back, a jacket softly slipping off one shoulder, next level cleavage all the way down too the belly button, loose low slung pants and a slim red velvet dress that’s perfect to flash every sinewy mile-long leg (yep, talking to you Angelina). The deep autumn-inspired colours felt very warm and made us want to bath in their sensuality: copper, purple, a deep bottle green, magenta and fuchsia. And of course, we could only sigh when seeing the utterly cool hair rag-rolled in bold coloured velvet. Can somebody tell us where can we apply for a job in this Paris national army?

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2016

Where was Dior taking us, other than a fashion show? The grandiose set made us feel like we were about to step in a huge time machine. The big mirroring backdrop and a voice repeating “Time, time, time” on the soundtrack were only endorsing this. And if there’s only one thing that’s more involved with tim(e)ing, it must be fashion. It got us speculating with our neighbours. But what got us even more speculating was: what to expect from a show without primary creative director? At least, it didn’t stop the celebs from coming. And social media was still overflowing with Dior hashtags. Sure, there was no guessing whether this was still Dior, but it was missing the big bang. It’s jaw-dropping effect, it’s I-want-it-all and I-want-it-now- effect.

This collection felt younger and less extravaganza than previous ones. We saw the familiair bar jackets, off-the-shoulder bustier tops being layered over dresses, contrast of patterns of differing fabrics, contrasting furs as a collar, knee-length blossoming skirts, lots of black suiting, high-waisted pencil skirts and softer jackets. Not to mention those pointy shoes, and we can’t deny we felt our heart skip a beat when that red-orange coat came along. Dior showed us once more their serious atelier skills and it’s dedication to the house aesthetics, but we couldn’t help but wonder what’s the next step they’ll take in time. Like Anna Wintour said: fashion is always about looking forward and Dior need’s someone to direct this time machine.

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