Streetfashion PFW Womenswear SS2017, Day 3

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Womenswear Fashion Week spring/summer 2017.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2017

The SS17 collection ’SAGOI’, is an homage to an old canal house in Amsterdam with beautifully contained ‘Delft Blue’ tiles dated 1667. Liselore Frowijn has interpreted the iconic hand-painted ceramics by tracing them with her signature style, both painting the illustrations directly on silk and using blown-up graphics in bold overall prints.
The illustrations display mythical scenes of an escape to a pastoral lifestyle of farmers in the Dutch 17th century. Research on these tiles’ topography brought Frowijn to the Japanese island of Kyūshū, where Dutch-Japanese exchange started around 400 years ago. Liselore Frowijn visited the Japanese island this summer to work with local artisans in the indigo-workshops on developing several textiles and implementing techniques that have been used for decades.
Next to the abstracted pastoral scenes, the pieces feature nude figure drawings inspired on the traditional Japanese Shunga erotic woodcut prints, combined with flower-dessins from the Mantero archive. With additional screenprinted graphic layers of blown-up Japanese masks, shibori-indigo dyes, woven kasuri textiles and Delft Blue paintings, the entire collection embodies the story of two worlds meeting once again in intermixed cultural traditions.
Using the tunic as a base piece, the collection has grown into a semi-couture extravagance of where each look presents a new layer and playfully stacked bold prints. Each garment can be worn as a canvas depending on your mood, with a dazzling richness in combination as a result, balancing on luxury-couture and sporty details. The woman Liselore admires embraces the unknown with a sweltering sensuality and as you imagine the Amsterdam house, she takes you to an idyllic realm where two worlds collide.

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

What a nice tropical surprise on such lousy summerdays like these. Hearing the crickets sing while sitting between huge decorations of colourful flowers and plants. The show was called ‘Afropolitan’ and tells the story of tradition and development, identity and the power of the African woman. To get the most out of it, Liselore joined forces with Vlisco, a famous Dutch company that produces and distributes fashion fabrics for the West and Central African market. She was inspired by the many colourful fabrics she found in their archives. Her muze comes from the Igbo-pedigree, Nigeria. She calls her the typical ‘Afropolitan-woman’, a term that stands for the bridge between old traditions and habits and modern day life. And it showed in every form and fiber.

It was translated into a collection that keeps on developing itself. It all started in 2013, analyzing and renewing prints and colours by adding or skipping layers. Creating luxurious elements by using lacework, embroideries and subtle shimmers. Using the typical Igbo-colours like indigo (earth), yellow (sacred) and red (human) on new silhouettes. The models wearing plants and flowers in their hear and heavy red eye shadow. We also spotted some rich Indian fabrics, like hand painted silks and woven jacquards, giving it a ultra feminine feel. All the while keeping the lines and shapes very simpel and clean, with draping and folding to create some movement in the clothes. It was complimentary for the eyes, but it also makes you question what kind of woman this would wear. There’s a big group of modern urban men (we usually tend to call them ‘hipsters’ and especially living in Amsterdam) that have been embracing these kind of prints for several years now, but what about the ladies? There were definitely looks that fit perfectly in the streets nowadays, but is the Dutch woman brave enough to wear these extravagant clothes? We shall see. It would definitely not hurt on such grey and rainy days.

Dennis Diem Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS2017

A fully packed Gashouder is waiting for designer Dennis Diem to start his show. Also the big fashion journalists are present, gathering in the front row. All iPhones held in line to capture the perfect opening shot as soon as the lights switch off. The excitement for the ‘Sweet Rebel’ show is tangible. And who doesn’t want to be part of a romantic fifties movie scene, but in real life? A show that takes you back to the set of cult-film Cry Baby (1990, John Waters). Don’t we all dig the famous love stories about the good girl falling for the bad guy? And good she was, oh la la. The collection was sugarcoated with pastel colours, ruffles, petticoats, silk, organza, tulle, jacquards, lace and cashmere. Not to mention his hand-made bodices. It felt like we were attending high school prom, waiting (and shivering) for our big crush to come pick us up on his motorcycle.

“I’ve never seen such a proper show from Dennis”, someone in the audience recalls. Probably not knowing what was about to come. Because our high school crush a.k.a. The Ladykiller arrived on an actual (!) motor vehicle, and it immediately changed everything into a good girl gone bad vibe (where’s RiRi when you need her). Dennis Diem collaborated with designer Jos Jacob, who’s work is known for leather, bondage and beauty in the imperfection. Leather bathing suits, platform shoes as high as the Eiffel Tower and fishnet pantyhose with a skull hiding your most precious parts. It felt like 50 shades meets 50s romance, talking of a extreme clash. “I met him in the candy store”, the music plays along. Wouldn’t that make love so much easier than it is today? Let’s forget about online dating, delete Tinder or Happn, and channel your inner sweet rebel. Because this is the real deal, and we would die for a ride on that motor vehicle.

Miriam Reikerstorfer + Elke van Zuylen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS2017

Funny how we can ignore such a big and influential thing like our subconscious. It was the key to the new collection of Austrian born designer Miriam Reikerstorfer. “This particular collection is inspired by suppressed feelings and fears. The subconscious influences our daily decisions, even if we don’t realize it. It is the part of our psyche that is just below the conscious mind and is capable of jumping to the forefront at any time. On a daily basis, people suppress their feelings, dreams, and fears, as well as their sexual desire, I believe it is an endless pool of inspiration.”

Are we afraid? Is there not enough awareness? Why not see the beauty in it and see what it can teach us. Let’s make the dark light again, and the bad good. The contradiction is very obvious in the soft versus hard elements. Tender fabrics with hand-dyed details and delicate drapery. Hand-sewn sequins and hand-cut pieces, references to Miriam’s believe in the old traditions of haute couture. The harsher elements were seen for example in the cornrow-hair, straight trousers and the top with huge hoodie (it might become a favourite for Dutch songstress Kovacs). The bright pink mixed so well with the taupe and dark (red) hues. ‘Things I get obsessed about’, the music echoes over the venue. Oh yes, there are definitely some things in this collection we can obsess about.

Elke van Zuylen
The second part of the show was for Elke van Zuylen to show her new collection named ‘NoNoCake’. Another show that was about emotions, to be more precise: shyness. She calls it the ‘The Shy-Movement’. Why? Perhaps she’s tired of people putting themselves out there all the time, feeling like the centre of the universe. Always online, always present. And more or less we all suffer from FOMO (Fear Of Missing Out). Extravert people are celebrated, introverts are considered less fun and exciting. But is it? According to Elke there’s more to shy people than meets the eye. ‘Stille wateren hebben diepe gronden’, as we like to call it in Holland. Take this and her fascination for Japanese and Korean (sub)cultures, and we’re talking the core of this collection. It showed in the pom pom hair of the models, the komono-ish jackets, soft and silky pyjama fabrics and other geisha and Harajuku references. Interesting was the layering part, such as a white see-through bralette sewed on a maxi-dress or a XL tulle skirt worn underneath a night blue velvet tunic. If this resembles shyness, there’s nothing to be ashamed of.

WOMENSWEAR SS2016: Give the cold shoulder

Forget about the cropped top, by now it’s basically fashion road kill. But its substitute will kill it just as much. We’re talking the off-shoulder tops. There’s no doubt about it: shoulders are THE erogenous zone for this summer. They always look good and we don’t have to train them like our abs (thank god!). Just put some illuminating (tanning) lotion on your clavicles and anyone can pull of that supermodel-over-the-shoulder-look (or brush her shoulders off like Jay-Z).

The off-shoulder is not just a trend, but a real wardrobe essential. Ever since the 1840s fashion is characterised by low and sloping shoulders. But today’s version has it roots especially from the French riviera style. French icon Brigitte Bardot, who owned this look during the 1960s, wearing off-the-shoulder tops with everything from midi skirts to pants. And let’s not forget about Jane Birkin. A jeans and simple top never looked this good. It’s flirty and fun, all the while hiding your armpits (what else could you ask for?!) And it comes in many variations. From elegant strapless items to ruffled one-shouldered tops and dresses or tight cut-out pieces, there are plenty of ways to work this trend. Team it up with a cool pair of boyfriend jeans, culottes or suede A-line skirt for a grown-up 70s vibe. Here’s how to wear the key pieces.

WOMENSWEAR SS16: Unironed business

Don’t like ironing (who does by the way)? We have the best news for you: crumpled fabric is a key detail trend this season (yay!). Yep, it’s hot catwalk material. And that gives you way more time in the morning, sounds good right? A wrinkled dress seems like a huge fashion faux pas, but not if we ask the big boys in fashion. Take your cue from Victoria Beckham, Altuzarra, Thakoon, Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto and Givenchy who all decided to lack a little on the ironing part. Even the most delicate, silk (slip)dresses were wrinkled. And we have to admit: it still has this easy breezy elegance you wish for in summer. Going for a casual daytime look? Watch for Victoria Beckham or Altuzarra. Heading out for dinner or a party tonight? Take note from Nina Ricci or Givenchy. Finish it off with some statement accessories and these awesome summer it-shoes, and prepare to dance the night away.

WOMENSWEAR TREND SS2016: White on white

I’m sure you’ve seen this trend around. Cause one of the most obvious colours for summer is white and it was out there on the catwalk big time. Every year it’s the same story, but in a different way. Do we bother? Absolutely not. White is clean, fresh, pure, airy and perfect for summer. There’s nothing more refreshing than slipping on a white ensemble when the temperatures rise. As Dior’s creative director Raf Simons explained his collection with the words ‘femininity, fragility and sensitivity without sacrificing strength’, white is your your best compagnon. And doesn’t it feel great embracing summer in a white slip dress or white off shoulder top? It’s like putting together the two most important ingredients for your perfect summer pie. So let’s start baking, gal’!

Let’s rest our fashionable kitchen with the most fine pieces we spotted so far. On our wish list is almost every designer’s white ensemble, from Victoria Beckhams slip dress version, Veronique Branquinho’s see through ruffled dress, Balmain’s body hugging dresses, Dior’s romantic transparant cropped tops, Ferragamo’s midi-length sundress in lofty cotton and Chanel even makes us wanna wear a coat in summer (crazy right, but gotta give it a go!). The main thing is: it doesn’t really matter what kind of white you’re wearing, but how you wear it.

What are your thoughts on white for summer?

BEAUTY TREND SS2016: Easy breezy summer (h)air

Oh yes! Summer is finally happening. Time to enjoy the sun rays, ocean breeze and mojito’s (like we need an excuse for that anyway). Summer excites us, and that’s for lots of reasons. And one of them is that this change of weather makes us want to try new things that fit the season. Not only the clothes, but also hair do’s that match our wardrobes and do well when it’s hot and steamy outside. We selected one of the coolest do’s to rock this summer. And let us tell you one thing: If you’re craving a dramatic hair change, now is the perfect time.

1. Straight Up
Bring in the straitening iron. The straighter the hair, the better. If you want to go all the way, do it like Mary Katrantzou’s girls and go for a wet-look with a side part. Plus, a little bit of cooling down never hurts anyone.

2. Buzzcut
Well, this will definitely create a buzz. That’s for sure. This one’s for the bold gals, not afraid to be less ‘lady-like’. Take for example British catwalk dominator Ruth Bell, the coolest model on the block right now. With her blonde buzz cut but delicate facial features, you will remember her from the very first moment. Now, the 19-year-old has been walking for the biggest brands, like Max Mara, Gucci, Versace and Etro and is the face of Saint Laurents Cruise 2016 campaign. Wether you like it or not, at least this cut is highly summer proof.

3. Boyish crop
Next to the buzz cut, we have the boyish cut. Same category, but slightly different. And the best way to present this to you is through model and Alex Wang favourite, Isabella Emmack. She chopped off her long brunette tresses to change it for a punky, black, pixie cut. It has a manly appearance but in a soft and cool way, don’t you think?

4. Pastel
It’s impossible to miss that pastels are a huge thing this season. Same goes for our runway models. We’ve counted many pinkish slash coral slash Rose Quartz coloured hair do’s. Look at those baby pink locks at Louis Vuitton (pow pow!) or the coral-toned appearances at Carven. And how about Westwood’s take on pastel wigs?

5. Cool and c-c-curly
Or you take it as big, bold and beautiful as one of our favourite Dutchies Imaan Hammam. Or the other option is to play it less obvious and glam, but still rock your summer with cropped curls.

6. Hair accessories
From flower clips, tiaras and ribbon ties. For the perfect examples take a look at DVF, Rodarte, Saint Laurent, Chanel and Lanvin.

WOMENSWEAR SS2016: The metallic movement

You could think of this as something that belongs to glitzy granny’s in Advanced Style, Lady Gaga or ’10 outfits Only Samantha Jones Can Wear’. But as a matter of fact, shiny gold fabric and metallics are a huge trend (ever since 2014) and seem to make a lasting impression. Although it feels like a throwback to the 80’s, don’t be scared, cause the metallic trend is less space man and over the top than you might think. It’s actually more out of this world. That means: modern, classy and sophisticated. Even sexy.

It’s becoming more and more versatile and it can be as simple as teaming a metallic skirt or trousers with a simple white shirt for a less boring everyday look (looking at you Loewe). Or have a look at Chanel on how to add a metallic shoe, purse or hand glove (how Michael Jackon can it be) to your outfit. Bright metallic accessories is a proper and easy way to add a a little va-va-voom. And literally shine all night with all the girls wearing a sparkly metallic (slip)dress (check check, Saint Laurent). And if, if you dare to take it up another notch, show your wild side with Prada’s golden lips. How sassy! All else there’s left is just a bunch of confidence.

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