Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

There was a lot going on at the Gucci-show yesterday. The shock of the new is over. The shock now is in the overload of outfits and the beautiful details. In a very short time, Alessandro Michele has established a clear signature: all eccentricity, gentleness, cross-references, magpie pilings and especially, highly decorative clothes and accessories. He’s not interested in seasonal flip-flops. He likened himself to an alchemist, mixing far-flung ingredients into a heady concoction.
On the runway, the fall lineup looked like more of the same, plus men’s. Although some things changed.The sweet geek with whom Michele launched his women’s vision now looks less innocent.This time, she wore her quirks and her references — Orientalism, men’s wear, Forties, Seventies, Eighties, flowers, animalia, a soupçon of Chanel and much, much more — with sly audacity. The men remained of the modernist sort, which to say gender fluid, as were some of the girls. If there was news in terms of cut, it came on the men’s side, in suits in shrunken proportions.

For all their visual overstatement, the glory was in the details, the craft, the countless subtle creative ideas and choices, many of them experimental.

Streetfashion Womenswear FW2017 London, Day 01

What are you wearing during the fashionweeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: London Fashioin Week FW 2017.

Coach Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Stuart Vevers’ 25th collection for Coach focussed to his starting place, the shearling. He revisited some favorite sources of inspiration, such as Terrence Malick films and the Great Plains.
This time, though, he did a style mash-up by mixing prairie with Eighties hip-hop. The tomboy was also a reference point. But with the Smashing Pumpkins’ “1979” playing throughout, and a voiceover from “Badlands” spliced in, Vevers’ prairie-hip-hop combo took on a grunge feel.

Currently, outerwear is king. Shearlings were distressed with raw edges and floral and eagle embroideries all over. Vevers pushed the shearling idea even further with a dyed hoodie style with intarsia floral designs and a full-length topper coat that was dyed several shades of brown.

Proenza Schouler Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Proenza Schouler is saying good bye to New York and moves to the fashionstage of Paris later this year. For their fare-well show they wanted to make it a celebration of New York and capture the way they feel about the Big Apple.
That translated into a trove of powerful new iterations of the high-intensity, gritty elegance that has become their signature. Out came a big, boxy outerwear piece, its utilitarian function not at all hindered by souped-up design elements — off-kilter twists, breaks and sometimes, wide, flying streamers proclaiming the brand’s name. Then followed a leather dress, twisted around the body and cinched tightly at the waist, and a cloud of two-tiered ivory flou, almost angelic even atop edgy black shoes. The designers worked bold abstract prints with the tribal resonance they love. Their collaged and layered dresses are wonders of construction and movement, most of them compilations of undulating shapes, color, texture and bare skin.

SiesMarjan Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

It was designer Sander Laks third collection with his label SiesMarjan. And he embraced fantastical color and free-flowing silhouettes for a look that is otherworldly in a sweet but subversive way.

First and foremost, the lineup was an earnest celebration of the magic of color. Lak has an eye for daring palette combinations that ricochet off each other — magenta and nude; sorbet orange, mint green and beige; acid blue and brown. Instead of tempering the bold tones, he cast them on fabrics that intensified the dreaminess of the hues.

Sporty touches modernized the flou, such as an iridescent dress that was ruched around the bodice but zipped up like a windbreaker. Those details — zippers, snaps, utility pockets — brought the ethereal look down to earth.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Victoria Beckham brought a tailored, soft and modest collection on stage yesterday. By using rich-but-grounded colors, like navy, oxblood, red and orange, and reworking classic men’s tailoring with square blazers and full-leg trousers, Beckham sent a subliminal message of strength. A woman in a sharply cut burgundy coat over fluid pants with a dashing foulard swishing under the coat is dressed to be taken seriously.
Even rounder, curvier and more fluid stuff, such as a red chiffon dress under a navy blazer, a navy sweater with sculpted sleeves and tie-waisted trousers, and body-skimming jersey dresses in graphic swirled prints inspired by Paul Nash, had a determined air. Likewise, the impressive shoes: pointy flats with double buckles and sturdy boots — wedges and high heels.

Maison the Faux Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Alexander Wang presented an all black, punk-inspired collection with hints of nineties doomy underground Berlin.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris SS2017

Starting off with cool camoflauge prints and little safari co-ords Kenzo’s SS2017 line up soon evolved into more funky dresscodes. Like a patent leather skirt worn with a ruffled blouse and a metallic top. Or a skirt and oversized Tee both which had images of Kenzo back in the (Studio 54, just check out this clip) days printed on them. Yet the best chapter of the show started with a parade of shiny disco dresses full of beads and sequins. Studio 54 dressing on fleek. If only we’d still be able to relive some of those marvellous disco dancing nights. But will surely find other occasion to wear that pink dress with handwritten prints and sparkling top to. It deserves a place in the spotlights that’s for sure. Same goes for those chunky earpieces…wow! Carol Lim and Humberto Leon sure found a way to overcome the H&M hype (their collaboration collection is hitting stores next month). This collection of 54 looks will have both fashion critics and Kenzo customers going wild (like Jerry Hall and Pat Cleveland on that stage).

Esther DorhoutMees Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris SS2017

Her Paris Haute Couture debut asked for a follow up. So today Esther Louise Dorhout Mees was back in Paris to present her SS17 collection ‘Orphic’. Inspired by lightning, which is beautiful (to watch) and horrifying at the same time, the talented Dutch designer came up with a feminine collection filled with layered elegance. A line up that really spoke to the audience as soon as the first model (with the frizziest, struck-by-lightning-hair) appeared.

‘‘ORPHIC’ (adj.) Mysterious and entrancing; beyond ordinary understanding’ was about thunder and the designer’s fascination with what happens when someone survives a lightning strike. An exceptional (and rather dreadful) starting point that lead to some exquisite and surprisingly lighthearted looks. Prints referred to both the movement of electricity and the fading it causes as well as scars on a skin.

Fabrics both airy and nacre shiny beautifully worked together in some of the esthetic and arty couture looks as tight corsets, countlessly tied at the back (resembling scars) played a crucial part. Whites, nudes, red and touches of mint formed a graceful pallet, no doubt linked to all things human like skin, veins and blood. And not just the fabrics, but the jewelry and the sneakers too matched the show’s engrossing theme.

Something to think about next time you’re witnessing a thunderstorm..

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