Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Maria Grazia Chiuri built her new collection for Dior on the color blue. And according to the houses founder – Christian Dior – navy blue is the only color that can compete with black, since it has the same qualities.
Chiuri opened with daywear: a hooded monk’s tunic in cashmere cut to jacket-length and belted over matching cropped pants. She listed uniform dressing among her references, and leather berets and cross-bodies slung with the bags in back imposed a militaristic ardor on some of the dark, unfussy clothes.
Chiuri went more obviously Dior with jackets over graceful full skirts, but less so with denim, which looked fine and young. Evening proved interesting, as Chiuri’s models wore her moody, ethereal tulles and embroideries with relaxed attitudes.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2017, Day 04

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week FW 2017.

Streetfashion Paris Womenswear FW2017, Day 02

What are you wearing during the fashion weeks? Your Gucci-shoes, that vintage Prada or your latest Vetements-denim? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week FW 2017.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Dries van Noten’s show yesterday marked a milestone: it was his 100th collection inclusing women’s and men’s. And he took the opportunity to look back, but without being nostalgic. He chose to celebrate with the clothes and the women who have telegraphed their power from the beginning – literally generations of runway models. He opened with Kristina de Coninck, followed by a roll call of his favorite go-to girls from the Nineties on — Amber Valletta, Anne Catherine Lacroix, Carolyn Murphy, Alek Wek, Cecilia Chancellor, Élise Crombez, Erin O’Connor, Esther de Jong, Guinevere Van Seenus, Kirsten Owen, Liya Kebede and Nadja Auermann — who shared the runway with the familiar faces of today.

Van Noten dressed them to play up their strength, both as individuals and as a gender. And it did work, powerfully and easily. Van Noten crossed traditional masculine and feminine elements on his runway.
Van Noten’s other big message: prints – he’s a master of the genre. As part of looking back, he revived favorite patterns from his archive, overprinting them with additional motifs so that nothing is today as it was then.

Saint Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Anthony Vaccarello’s collection for Saint Laurent was not about chic. Looking chic is the furthest thing from the mind of this Saint Laurent girl. She wants to look aggressive cool: peak-shouldered jackets and micro dresses, high-shine vinyl (or leather), ruffles and a tricked-out sleeve. Such clothes are in-your-face fashion, pulsing with sexy attitude. Part two of the Saint Laurent collection was a series of impeccably made, basic (as in really basic) clothes: jackets, sweaters, pants, jeans, a tank-top. The pre-finale men’s wear fell completely into this category — ultra-cool, ultra-wearable, just clothes.

 

Liselore Frowijn Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear FW2017

Liselore Frowijn designed her fall collection in the name of the greater goo: crafting an outdoor/nomadic/global collection as a commentary on “human unity and freedom.” The looks were pileups of quilted bombers, tunics and wide-leg pants that referenced traditional Indian garb, brushed wool scarves, ponchos and long tailored coats done in gradient colors. Planetary prints inspired by Alfred Eikelenboom and gold Spandex-ish layers added an otherworldly feeling to the eclectic mix.

Versace catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

The Versace collection featured much more than positive thoughts as Love, Courage and Equality. The show opened with black tailoring that beautifully projected the refined woman power at the core of Donatella’s message — short, round-shouldered coatdress over sheer underpinning marked with “Equality”; cropped jacket over slim, low-slung skirt that exposed a slice of skin at the midriff. She went on to further develop elements of street and sport that have lately infiltrated her vocabulary, often in contrast to flou. It made for some great-looking clothes, especially sheepskin outerwear with edge and sexy draped dresses in a graphic open-weave tweed. Versace also showed impressive sportswear, including a snappy camel coat over graphic red-and-black sweater, checked skirt and chambray shirt, its tails hanging out, flashing “Strength.”
The ideas came rapidly: decorated denim and mink; sheer appliquéd dresses and Ts; girly dresses with flounces and cutouts, and others, athletic-inspired with overlocked seams.

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

President Trump— or reaction against him — has been all over the runways, or more accurately, all over show notes and backstage conversations in New York and Milan. Angela Missoni’s reaction made it onto the chairs in another way as well — in hats. Hundred of pink pussy hats, the accessory symbol of feminist outrage over the Trump presidency. But it did not mean the collection had a political message, it was all about chic.
Angela Missoni dived into the family archive embracing the house patterns and colors in all their flamboyance. But Missoni managed to control the frenzy, keeping to one pattern per look or subtler combinations. And she favored linear silhouettes, creating a sense of sporty chic.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

While so many designers are trying to make sense of streetwear motifs at the luxury level, Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier once again proved his differen status, this time with a collection all dressed up, slick and polished.
The shoulder proved the major focus, anchoring a lean silhouette that projected power-woman determination. The men’s wear reflected similar polished and tailored panache, while projecting a slightly gentler attitude.

Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2017

Miucca Prada still believes in style as a mighty power to fight for women’s rights. She took traditional trappings of glamour — feathers and embroidery — and lavished them on everyday staples: pencil skirts, cardigans, tailored jackets, bear-hug outerwear, a chemise here and there. Often, these came in weighty fabrics — corduroy, thick knits, tweeds, shearling — put together in audacious collages of color and pattern, atop heels fastened with giant buttons or big, furry multicolored mukluks. Orangey tweed and leather jacket over bright yellow skirt with red embroidery and blue white feather hem? Cocktail dress with feathered bonnet? Prints done in collaboration with artist Robert McGinnis? Whatever their politics, fashion ladies will succumb to the seduction.

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