First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Craft Allure
March 3, 2013 by Jetty
Filed under womenswear
At first glance serious, plain tailoring reigned the runway offering this season. At second glance it was an ode to artisan-ship. Escaping the rat race to show the it-silhouette,most designers want to be true to themselves. They move back tot where they started and want to show the value of tailoring and fashion. Genuine emotion was fueled into collections where some felt like pure poetry. From rebellious expressiveness, energetic artisan-ship, to inventive and refreshing embellishment. Primal and tribal intensity to cheeky freedom and fun.
Maison Martin Margiela’s line-up looked like a fresh start, showing expressive crafts carefully embedded in Margiela’s masterful tailoring principles. Dior fused casual flair into a very couture collection by adding a series of chunky craft knits, Dries van Noten was inspired by ballroom dancing and scattered crystals, feathers and flapper fringes. Rick Owens showed rare, but very effective decorative touches that seemed like experimental exercises to explore the ancient crafts of basket weaving.
How crafts add couture allure.
Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam
Sonia Rykiel Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Paris FW2013
It was Geraldo da Conceicao’s debut collection for Sonia Rykiel, since the brand got it’s new owners Fung Brands Ltd. last year. For his first collection he managed to mix Sonia’s signatures with his own skills and preferences. Knitted suits with playful buttons opened the show, followed by a selection of knitted dresses that fully breathed Rykiel. The next black leather, more architectural pieces seemed more of Geraldo’s personal thing yet they were quickly followed up by more knitwear. Casual pieces worn by bra-less models and business chic designs like a baby pink suit jacket and a baby blue ensemble. A trio of printed tunics perhaps looked a bit out of place, yet the finale sweaters (with kisses and flowers) brought back that joyful Rykiel feeling. It might take a while before Geraldo da Conceicaso has fully found the right direction he wants to go with the brand, but he’s on the right track.
