Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

Missoni ended with a standing ovation today. Also, for the first time Angela spoke to the press about still having hope for Vittorio and her wish to carry on, be strong and focus on work. So without any hesitations the Missoni fall/winter collection was presented like any other show on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. It included loungewear, from pj’s to bathrobes. With bare shoulders, sheerness and fishnets many looks felt slightly too fresh for fall, yet layering up those pieces by comfy cardigans was Angela’s winter proof solution. Touches of light green, pink and blue brightened up the black and white color palette. Some of the shades were used to a degrade effect making two long lean dresses change from white to pink and grey to black. A full on off white winter look, made a perfect new season picture as Missoni demonstrated monotone, in this case sporty, looks will stay in fashion. Not a lot of signature zig zag prints, yet with all the layering and material mixes there’s not a dull moment in sight.

 

 

Emilio Pucci Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2013

High boots, shorts dresses did the trick at Pucci’s fall/winter presentation. The over the knee boots were suede and came in a range of colors, from camel to red. The dresses varied from pastel shaded, satin printed to sexy transparent with lace details. Clothes, as designer Peter Dundas described them, “women want to put on and men want to take off”.
Though like many of the in Milan presented collections Pucci breathed forties, yet it were late sixties/seventies muses Anita Pallenberg, Britt Ekland (and their trendy bangs) that inspired Dundas. Their modern look a likes had that same rocky attitude mixed with a boho swing in the form of animal printed waist belts, high collars, capes and fur coats casually tossed on their shoulders. And if this boho rock collection fails to become a success; the Pucci beauty will. Bangs it is! (what the first lady can do, we can too).

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Going Green

As design goes green and the possibilities of green fashion are being reconsidered the title of this kick-off of New York Fashion Week might give us high hopes. Yet green in New York is the shade of a smart mixture of nature and artifice unified in disciplined outfits with military references and work wear details. Though stern in principle the outcome is ultra feminine and tailored showing a defined, sinuous silhouette. The green hues range from olive, army and loden to tender and marbled leave shades.

Lacoste shows sculpted leather dresses with diagonal zips. Where Richard Chai stages neat tailoring in stern uniforms finished with a glamorous polish.

Rag & Bone has chosen aviation as a starting point in a free interpretation of vintage flight suits and flight attendant uniforms. Urban nomads, dressed by Nicholas K, wear sheltering layers of intriguing textures in a myriad of greens, where the modern-day Amazones of Prabal Gurung show utilitarian city-combat styles. A sturdy look that is inspired by the Ukraine’s Asgarda tribes.

Hopefully this trend symbolizes ‘the green light’ towards excitement.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam