Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Funky Sweaters

Forget those Nordic printed knitted sweaters we’ve seen the last couple of years; upcoming fall it’s all about the cool printed ones. And the crazier the print, the more popular the sweater, so it seems…

Balenciaga introduced multiple versions of a space printed jumper, while Humberto Leon and Carol Lim created a tiger printed sweater for Kenzo. We spotted horses at Altazurra and a spooky creature at Diesel. Jeremy Scott and Asish took it even further by showing knitted smileys and Bart Simpson tops. Add a few outstanding graphic prints from brands like Sportmax, Moschino and Stella McCartney and you’re sure there will never be a dull moment this fall… fashion wise, that is.

Trend Report Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Hourglass chic

As a result of last season’s peplum hype this fall it is all about the accentuated waistline again. At Etro and Dior we still spotted some gorgeous peplums, yet other brands (Oscar de la Renta, Salvatore Ferragamo, Prada, Rodarte) created the same hourglass effect by  belting tops, jackets and even big winter coats.

This brings the waistbelt back in the picture after a few years of absence. And guess what, it’s getting bigger again. Sonia Rykiel and Victoria Beckham may still have opted for smaller belts, yet as seen at Michael Kors, Yves Saint Laurent (Saint Laurent Paris), Acne and Fendi big belts are back. Wear yours in a shade matching your outfit and create that elegant super feminine figure.

Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam Claes Iversen FW2012

After a few super feminine, glamorous collections designer Claes Iversen decided to opt for a slightly darker, tougher fall winter feeling. In de Oude Kerk in the city center of Amsterdam, yet another great and unique show area picked by the Danish designer, he presented his new range of clothes he has worked on for the last six months.

Inspired by a tea cup turned upside down Claes came up with beautifully shaped dresses and coats. They portrayed feminine silhouettes in contrast with lots of volume at the upper body.

More contrast came in the dynamic between masculinity and femininity, gorgeous highly embroidered, items versus minimalistic pieces and dark shades like burgundy, deep green and black combined with light, fresh tones like orange, white and mint.

Still the overall dark feeling came through in every single look, emphasized by the models’ dark lips, their hair in their faces and long, black leather gloves. It felt kind of Gothic (good match with the show location), yet Claes managed to still keep it beautiful.

He surprised us by presenting a white smoking as a wedding‘dress’ and a suit jacket as an evening gown. He woke us up by showing something different than just beautiful and feminine. Yet he stayed true to his detailed craftsmanship and his excellent taste. Hats off for Claes for taking a risk, but not taking it too far.

www.claesiversen.com

Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Margiela started with some amazing, yet basic coats and capes which the models had hanging on their shoulders. Some real classics in grey, camel and black everyone could use in their winter wardrobe. Even the brand’s leather sleeves/gloves of last year made a reappearance, yet slightly different.

What followed was a series of turtlenecks and enormous collars which came up to the models’ ears. Then a couple of printed asymmetrical dresses popped up, giving this collection it’s signature look.

And just days after Angelina Jolie’s slit dress and thus her sexy bare leg at the Oscars were all over the news Maison Martin Margiela showed the same kind of sexiness. Pleated skirts which were short left  and maxi on the right revealed the models’ amazing toned legs, wow. Matched with shiny, straight blouses they created the ultimate cool chic look.

 

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

‘Nostalgia for the present’ was the theme of the Nina Ricci collection. It was about young girls playing dress-up in their mother’s and grandmother’s clothes, as Peter Copping told the press. This translated through tops with too long sleeves, extra large skirts and some of the dresses which were one size too big.

It made the models look like dolls. Dolls dressed in chic, but scruffy designs. Like slipdresses patched together with tweed and lace. Or somewhat destroyed jackets with fringes all over.

Though most of the looks were very ladylike, we also got a bit of a sporty vibe. Especially one of the last outfits, a sheer houndtooth skirt and jacket had sporty chic written all over it.

In this collection too it was all about mixing different materials, patchwork really. Wool and fur, lace and tweed, leather and satin, for the ultimate luxury looks with a bit of an edge.

 

 

Balmain Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Balmain’s fall will be all about boxy jackets, small pants and tight dresses. Oh and let’s not forget the dazzling detailed Faberge egg-like embroideries that popped up throughout  the show. Especially those highly decorated pieces were the most remarkable ones. Even though there won’t be many women who can afford those thousands of hand embroidered pearls and crystals.

Yet as delicate as those pieces were, designer Rousteing still made it look cool and effortless, in line with what Balmain stands for. Besides his gorgeous creations there was not a lot of fuss going on at the show. Models barely wore any make-up, had their hair down (slightly messy) and walked around on their low(er) heels with their hands in their pockets. It’s the easy chic that works so well on the streets and it’s the cool effortless vibe that makes young women love the brand so much.

Though the Balmain look has been quite the same for a few seasons, Rousteing carefully introduced some changes. Jackets became boxier, some flared (velvet) pants were added to the mix of skinnies and even a 7/8 skirt made it’s appearance. It will be hard for the brand to step away from it’s success formula of skinnies and pointed shoulders, but today’s collection proved Balmain is right on track.

 

 

 

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

At Mugler, the creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Sébastien Peigné,  linked directly to Thierry Mugler. Their point of reference was the designer’s 1997 “insects” couture collection, with supermodels in patent leather and bug-eyed masks. It resulted in a subtle translation  like in the pattern of a black and white dress with super-sized shoulders and glossy black croc appliqués on a sheer form-fitting dress.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2012

Dries van Noten delivered another piece of print-art yesterday with his fall 2012 collection. It was innovative, colorful, ultra-chic and real. The Belgian designer was inspired by historical Chinese, Korean and Japanese costumes he saw at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London. He photographed the garments for large scale prints which he cut into various pieces to create graphic blocks. So the side of a beautiful patterned oriental coat became the decorative motif for a skirt etc. The collection was ultra elegant with that typical Van Noten menswear touch which made it wearable and cosmopolitan.

Gianfranco Ferré Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

There were several really great aspects of the Gianfranco Ferre show today, inspired by Helmut Newton’s photography.

1. Designers Frederico Piaggi and Stefano Citron chose the most stunning shades, from deep emerald green to beautiful burgundy.

2. They opted for strong, architectural looks, which made the models look elegant and confident.

3. They, as did many other Italian designers, played with texture in a modern way.

With a focus on cut the designers created the most original, asymmetric looks. They emphasized the models’ waists by lines or belts and gave the girls more appearance by adding multiple collars.

Unexpected shapes and thick unflattering materials gave the collection a daring allure, which very well fits with today’s trends. Piaggi and Citron may be new at the Italian fashion house; with this collection they surely are on the right track.

Versus Catwalk Fashion Show Milan Womenswear FW2012

For fall 2012 Donatella Versace and Christopher Kane took us to Camden, an area in London where punk and grunge come together. They brought us to a small alley with a brick wall and wet street. It was the right setting for their fashion show, ‘cause if the collection was anything, it was streetwise.

Rebellious, tough, angry, modern girls (as Christopher put it) appeared in looks that were all slightly off balance. T-shirts were slashed to ribbons, dresses were held together with black leather lacing, mid thigh high boots and lots of tie-dyed items formed the finale of the show.

The clothes looked original and fun and will definitely appeal to the London youth. Also the color palette (from red, to blue, pink and green) seemed fresh and funky. Don’t those red leather pants just have to be worn in a cool city night club? And wouldn’t the tie-dye dresses be perfect for a day at Glastonbury? This Versus collection most become a hit. Or at least the London crowd will love it.

 

 

 

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