Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

There was a forties meets seventies feeling in the collection of Marc Jacobs’ second line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. What that translated into was a primmer, nerdier version of the Seventies, but with Jacobs’ vibe. This came across in the glassy, polished blouses and dresses that left practically everything to the imagination. This was not a sexy collection, nor was it sexless, it just maintained a more professional, adult mentality. The chunky knits, effortless dresses and sizable pants in muddy fall colours of orange and brown had a thrifted, serious quality to them. It somteimes reminded of Annie Hall. Also attractive was the Navajo-style ethnic prints on jackets and a long poncho.

This was a very commercial and dressed collection, but done in a casual way. Elegant dressing the easy way. Don’t we all want that?

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2011 Day 5

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Y3 by Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

For fall Yohji Yamamoto was inspired by a journey, by traveling around the world. In his opinion young people don’t travel enough. ‘My generation used to be called hippies. Now, young people are backpacking. By walking in the world, young people can see what’s happening, what’s going on. Don’t catch all your information from TV, or too quickly. Just walk. Go around’, he told The Cut.

And with this thought in the back of his head Yamamoto designed a very streetwise and cool collection. His boys and girls looked tough in his designs, walking the runway with their hands in their pockets.

It almost seemed as if Yamamoto took his traveling inspiration literally, since there were outfits for all types of weather conditions. Sporty black dresses, long skirts, Tartan printed shirts,  leather jackets, super thick menswear pants and comfy jersey items formed a nice, youthful Y3collection.

Caps, scarves, bags and big zippers gave the collection an even bigger street chic appeal and proved that even though Yamamoto is 67, he still knows how to Wow his customers.

Carolina Herrera Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

There were not a lot surprises at the Carolina Herrera fashion show. It was a classic womenswear collection full of beautiful designs, yet it didn’t feel very fresh. The models were dressed properly but it all appeared very tame.

The models did look very elegant and feminine in their pencils skirts and tight dresses, accentuating their hourglass figures. Their sequined tops seemed perfect for a nice cocktail party and the enormous cuffs gave some looks an unexpected twist (though not very practical).

Some designs in orange, turquoise and blue, added towards the end of the collection, looked lovely and slightly younger that the first few looks. The colors of Karlie Kloss’ evening gown were daring, yet worked perfect together and made up for a Oscar worthy A-list look.

But we think Caroline Herrera doesn’t even need those celebrities to wear her clothes. We guess she has more than enough loyal customers who will immediately fall in love with this new collection. ‘Cause one thing’s for certain Carolina Herrera knows the woman she designs for all too well and always sticks to her (winning) code.

An Anna dello Russo moment at Marc Jacobs

Streetfashion New York Womenswear FW2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-dress or that vintage Yves St. Laurent? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Thom Browne’s first proper show of his women’s collection was a special kind of spectacle. He transformed the New York Public Library into a church with a convent’s worth of models dressed like nuns. Finally Browne found a way to mix his Catholic upbringing and his fascination for uniforms. His nuns marched in covered up except for the gigantic fake eyelashes peeking out from beneath their habits. One by one the girls were liberated from their cloaks by a pair of altar boys, only to reveal clothes that were the real cross to bear.

Underneath there were elements of Browne’s menswear vocabulary: checks, extreme proportions, difficult layering, and an absolute upending of red-white-and-blue tradition. Browne encased each woman in ultra-stiff, tailored layers done in exaggerated proportions with a preppy, varsity theme. There were shrunken suits in mismatched plaids,  blazers with giant peplums and layered maxi coats with shirttail hems, some of which will be wearable once the look is dismantled.

There was absolutely no sex in this collection, restriction was everywhere: the models walked without moving their arms, turtlenecks were pulled up over their mouths, and molded bubble skirts and tops looked about as comfortable as a straight jacket. That seemed precisely the point. One of the finale looks actually included a skirt made out of a cage of red and blue ribbon.

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Donna Karan loves to work with contradictions. Masculine-feminine, natural and urban, soft and rough, satin and fur. She continued last season’s pale palette, now  pearl gray and taupe instead of ivory-beige.

As for the clothes, except two pairs of high-waisted draped jersey pants, Karan showed dresses, skirtsuits, and coats, along with a few filmy blouses with draped necklines that sometimes doubled as head scarves. Every look, without exception, had a nipped waist. Karan was at her best in terms of cut, decorating the clothes not with extra stuff but with elegant drapes and folds. One dress was tucked on a soft diagonal and wrapped in front; another fell into a gently  cowl. The jacket of a slim suit had sleeves that tapered from wide, puffed shoulders. Another big hit of this collection were the shearlings and coats.

Often the looks were accessorized with flowing chiffon headscarves worn with a mysterious air of the runway variety, exquisite pearl necklaces and long gloves with deep, dramatic fur cuffs.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

It was all about polka dots and  looking polished at Marc Jacobs. Again, but now two decades later Marc Jacobs decided to use his favorite print again. It was a big step from his YSL/Seventies inspired spring-collection, but the designer couldn’t care less. He told WWD he’d thought about all things he’d done in the past and what he’d loved. He ran through all of his collections and presented his description of classic. From the trompe l’oeil to the polka dots to the glam collection that had the rubber, and the sweats that he’d done, all those crazy American classics. He just wanted to have fun.

We’re familiar with his mood-swings now, so it’s goodbye to gentle fluidity and hello to an austere line that was sliver thin and had a couture-like precision but also a girlish charm. The dots came small, medium and large; matt and shiny; flat and 3D and in an various fabrics: prints and embroideries, rubber and pailettes, fur and fake fur. Often Jacobs started with a white shirt as a first layer under  a boxy sweatshirt or curvy jacket over slim, sexy skirts. He also showed  sweaters, a men’s coat,  sailor pants and romantic lace dresses detailed with  jabots.

As for accessories, spotted socks, mini-berets and a range of slush-busting snow boots completed the collection. Plus handbags in vibrant car-paint.

Diane von Furstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011/2012

If you have a favorite color Diane von Furstenberg suggests you to wear a complete outfit in that shade. The 64-year old designer sent several full color outfits down the runway, with all items (even the boots, bags and bangles) in a different shade of the chosen color (green, red or blue).

She alternated those color(blocking) designs with eye catching graphic prints, which could be found on skirts, jumpsuits and dresses with low V-necks.

The collection, called American Legends, seemed Western inspired, judging from the brimmed hats, puffy sleeves, fringed boots and gauchos. Yet Diane’s Western Woman was glammed up a bit by metallic details (golden belts resembling the ones of Gucci’s spring/summer 2011 collection) , see through nettings, fur items and graphic cut-outs. (Especially the last three sequined evening gowns were full on glamour looks!)

If you dress by the code Less is More this DvF collection probably isn’t your cup of tea. But since there were a lot of different trends to choose from almost any woman should be able to find at least something she likes. (We have high hopes for the skirts and blouses!)



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