First View New York FW2012: Eccentric

Is this the kick off for an era of extremities? Or just another flow of reminiscence of the 60s en 70s, when pastiche and thrift shops came in favour. But now it get’s the luxury make over. The spirit of frivolous, brocante, scarce collectors items and precious iconic couture with a daring twist. Anna Piaggi and Iris Apfel are the muses to watch. Ab fab furs, chunky knits, lush velvet and corduroy, rich embroidery and tapestry. Proportions are blown up, giant is the size to go for. Supersized jewellery, hyper hats and bold stoles. Some take it serious and embrace the crafts aspect, some take it modern and throw in some digital printing and finishing, where others go for the humorous edge. Marc Jacobs most extreme with fluffy supersize hats, Nicole Miller revives vintage with some Boho touches, Libertine scatters dazzling glitter over luxurious crafted textures. Entertaining, exiting and fun is a good status for fashion.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2012: Dressed Up

Sensual form-fitted peplum dresses show that a long lean contouring tube can take on lots of characters. Twisted, folded, tucked, pinned and draped in sleek jewel toned satins with sophisticated not-so-daring slits. Sculptural minimalism makes a powerful silhouette since the fabrics’ contour and shape the body neatly. Smooth curves, pure and severe. Peter Som refers to the traditional peplum dress, Diane von Furstenberg goes more drama with severe asymmetric draping. Victoria Beckham is in control, as she always is, in compact and dense bonded jerseys where streamlining colour inserts play a trick with the eye. Donna Karan shows the most masterful tailoring. Artful compositions create a ultra modern look, clearly inspired by a retrospect on Marlene Dietrich emphasized by the Stephen Jones Fedora’s for an androgynous twist.

 

 

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

First View New York FW2012: Fabric Manipulation

Kicking off this fashion season brings us a lovely series of highly manipulative as well as manipulated materials. Powerful polished jackets, high gloss and sculptural, framed, lean sensual silhouettes. Waxed and laminated fabrics have interesting stories to tell. Shrunken wool, lacquered tweed, bonded and laminated aspects. Embossed surface effects, skin textures and smooth plains.

Leather, lacquers and plastics. The shine, the pile and the pattern add a touch of sensuality and glam to stern, sporty and robust outerwear.

Alex Wang shows the most experimental and surrealist versions of all, Jason Wu goes for decorative quilting and padding, Prabal Gurung matches pile with gloss where Victoria Beckham lines the military with sensual skin. A strong statement to start with!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Kicking off this fashion season brings us a lovely series of highly manipulative as well as manipulated materials. Powerful polished jackets, high gloss and sculptural, framed, lean sensual silhouettes. Waxed and laminated fabrics have interesting stories to tell. Shrunken wool, lacquered tweed, bonded and laminated aspects. Embossed surface effects, skin textures and smooth plains.

Leather, lacquers and plastics. The shine, the pile and the pattern add a touch of sensuality and glam to stern, sporty and robust outerwear.

Alex Wang shows the most experimental and surrealist versions of all, Jason Wu goes for decorative quilting and padding, Prabal Gurung matches pile with gloss where Victoria Beckham lines the military with sensual skin. A strong statement to start with!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam