Trends ss2010: streetwise
Most women love to dress up like classic, elegant ladies when they go out. Therefore international topdesigners create the most luxurious clothes made of expensive fabrics like silk, satin, chiffon and lace. But what do you wear on any given day when you haven’t planned anything special? Exactly, you mix and match your clothes into your best streetstyle.
We found out Marc Jacobs was all about the young streetmix for next summerseason, as well for Louis Vuitton as for his own brand. His LV models showed short skirts with jackets made in every possible shape and print.
The girls in the Marc Jacobs show wore a mix of many wearable items. This resulted in strange combinations (girls wearing their underwear on top of their clothing?!).
Balenciaga, G-Star and D Squared presented some easy-going, funky outfits for streetwise girls too. The designers often added a bag to make the outfit look more like streetwear. We can actually picture some girls working these streetmix-outfits on their day off in the city.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: slim silhouettes
Although models usually have a slim silhouette already, for ss2010 a few designers made their models look even taller and thinner than they normally are.
At Missoni’s fashion show the clothes with maximum lengths accentuated the models’ slim figures. The girls were wrapped in lots of layers as well. They wore long cardigans on top of long dresses, that only left a small part of their legs uncovered. The fact that Angela Missoni mostly used one shade per outfit added the feeling of the girls looking slimmer than ever.
Besides Missoni, many other brands had long slim pieces in their collections. Etro, Calvin Klein, Blumarine, Roberto Cavalli, Alberta Ferretti and Oscar de la Renta showed some great examples. Most of these were long feminine dresses, made of ultra-light and airy fabrics to make the outfit look less stiff.
Flowers or sequins were the finishing touch on many of these silhouette-accentuating outfits.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: fashionably exposed
Together with the nudes there’s a a lot of semi-nudity for next summer-season too.
Many designers worked with sheer and airy fabrics. Through these light fabrics the models’ skins were visible most of the time. At Giambattista Valli, YSL, Michael Kors, Sonia Rykiel and House of Holland the models’ breasts could clearly be seen through their designs.
Almost every piece of clothing came by in a transparent version. Roberto Cavalli even designed a few see-through pants. Valentino’s shiny, ruffled and transparent materials were made into super sexy party dresses. And Donnatella Versace created a few sheer evening gowns in pastel shades.
The sheer fabrics were often layered or draped. Viktor & Rolf used multiple transparent layers, becoming non-transparent by this application. Riccardo Tisci beautifully draped his sheer fabrics for Givenchy.
Apart from the delicate ultra-thin fabrics we could see some body-exposing nettings (Jil Sander, Sonia Rykiel, Just Cavalli) as well.
So, for next season don’t be afraid to show some skin. And if you are, just follow the example of Viktor & Rolf and wear lots of layers.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: goddess glamour
Next season shoulders are getting some extra attention in several different ways. We’ve seen shoulderpads, shoulder cut-outs, adorned shoulders and one-shoulder dresses.
Many designers gave their own interpretation to the one-shoulder dress. Most often they put all their creativity in the dress’s one shoulder. They gave that one shoulder lots of layers, ruffles and draping so it really stood out and made up for the missing one.
During the Iceberg fashion-show shoulders were emphasized in many ways. The colorful one-shoulder dresses seemed to be the highlight of the show. At Lanvin the shoulders got a mix of ruffles and layers.
Sonia Rykiel showed a one-shoulder dress with bows all the way to the top.The shoulder on one of Viktor & Rolf’s designs (made out of hundreds of layers of tulle) reached as high as the model’s head.
Most one-shoulder designs looked sexy, summery and a bit Roman/Greek.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: new basics
You could consider a pair of jeans and a white t-shirt as everlasting basics. However, even basics change a little bit every year.
A few seasons ago some slim fit pants were indispensable. For next summer a pair of wide-legged beige pants, a straightforward skirt, a loose-fitting jacket and a long cardigan are the season’s must haves. We saw many of these items at Stella McCartney’s show.
What’s so great about these clothes? You can easily mix them with the rest of your wardrobe. Especially the beige pants can go well with almost every color. The jackets and cardigans can be worn in a masculine way but with a waistbelt they will look very ladylike. We could see this combination in many shows.
The MaxMara, Chloé and Tommy Hilfiger fashion shows all had some great basics with which you can make endless variations.
Tess van Daelen
Trends ss2010: black & white
Although you might expect bright colors for the summer-season, many designers chose black and white as their main colors. There were lots of outfits in full black or white, but also good combinations as well.
Rick Owens, Ann Demeulemeester and the two Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto and Junya Watanabe didn’t use any color in their shows at all. Their designs were all in black, white and some hues of grey. Rick Owens’ designs stood out because they were very pointy. Watanabe’s clothes had black and white checks that matched with the checked shoes.
Givenchy showed some black and white in his renewing geometricaly shaped outfits. Jill Stuart made a few pairs of extraordinary black and white leggings. At the Moschino fashion show modern white blouses were mixed with black bows.
(Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: step by step
For some models walking the runway was a tough job in the past fashion weeks. Of course the shoes were to blame. Not only were they high as ever, they also had the craziest shapes. They seemd somewhat inspired by clogs and that made them look rather clumsy. The most outstanding examples of this ‘clog-shoe’ were those of Alexander McQueen. He showed some great fashion forward ones, which were no less than twelve inches high. With reptile prints they looked futuristic and animalistic at the same time. Passing by to the beat of Lady Gaga’s new song they indeed looked rather Gaga to us. Yet they might become a huge hit. At least McQueen wasn’t the only designer with clog-shoes in his show. Celine, Dior, DSquared, Givenchy, Bottega Veneta and Ferré showed some clog-variations as well. And not to forget Louis Vuitton and Chanel. Their Swedish clog-like shoes will probably become the most copied of all next spring. (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: shoulders up!
A few seasons on the runway shoulderpads now definitely hit the stores. While the crowd is taking over this trend, great designers are exaggerating their focus on shoulders and having fun with it. Their pointy or extremely round shoulders are lifted, thickened, adorned and made visible through transparent fabrics. At Balmain’s show the shoulders were still the main aspect of the collection. For 2010 Christophe Decarnin added some fringes on his military jackets for Balmain. The shoulders at the Comme des Garcons show were purposely put in all the wrong places (at the models’ breasts or backs). The brand thus made fun of the whole shoulderpad-trend. The actual shoulderpads were visible through the sheer designs of Jean Paul Gaultier, Viktor & Rolf and Sonia Rykiel. What type of shoulder will they come up with next season? (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: the nude-look
When we look at the use of color in the spring/summer collections it appears most designers were very modest. Not many of them used bright colors for their clothes. Instead they chose black or white, pastelshades, ivories or nudes. We already saw the nude-look last season but this time it was more present then ever. Peter Copping proved himself as the king of the nudes in his collection for Nina Ricci. His models were dressed in different shades of nude from head to toe. Even their accessories had the nude-look going on. Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano only used four different shades for their Gianfranco Ferré collection, nude being one of them. They designed some pretty cocktail-dresses in transparent shades. Almost every collection had some nude pieces. The nudes made most outfits look ultra-feminine and slightly romantic. Unfortunately it also made many models look pale. But that won’t stand in the way of the nude-look becoming even more successful next season. (Tess van Daelen)
Trends ss2010: la la lingerie
For season ss2010 a lot of attention went out to underwear and lingerie. Many designers used lingerie-influences in their collections. Sometimes underwear was even presented as fully-fledged clothing. Especially at Dolce & Gabbana and Jean Paul Gaultier lingerie played a big part. The Dolce & Gabbana fashion show ended with all the models on stage wearing sexy, vintage-like lingerie with animal and floral prints. As the inventor of the famous cone-bra, Jean Paul Gaultier could not stay behind in this lingerie-trend. He used cone-bra details in many of his designs. Marc Jacobs let one of his models wear silky lingerie on top of her regular clothes. At Dior lingerie was combined with airy nightwear. Many models wore corsets in which their breasts were highly accentuated. Most of the time they were worn with sexy skirts, but they were also manufactered in some dresses. The corsets were made of silk or transparent fabrics, adorned with bows, laces and ruffles. Karl Lagerfield decorated them with pieces of leather that reflected the bright spotlights as if they were made out of metal. (Tess van Daelen)
