Catwalktrends SS2010: in the navy

Not only is navy blue a big hit this spring, the whole navy theme is extremely popular at the moment. The ‘basic’-looking striped top is popping up everywhere. Of course blue and white horizontal stripes suit the navy theme the best, but red, black and gray also look good with white.

The striped tops come in multiple variations. You have the short sleeves, long sleeves, wide stripes, small stripes, round and straight collars and there are versions with buttons and bows on the shoulders.

Then there’s also this navy jacket. It comes with stripes or just in one collor, it has eye-catching buttons and you often see anchor detail on it. Clements Ribeiro showed some nice examples of that jacket, loosely worn on top of a striped t-shirt.

Brands like Oscar de la Renta, Tommy Hilfiger, Lacoste and Antonio Marras all had some navy accents in their collections for the summer of 2010. Also, large fashion retailers like H&M and ZARA are promoting the navy look big time. A smart move, that’s for sure.

Cause, while the striped top has a very basic look, it fits well with shorts, skirts and wide pants. And although it might not look that special at first, just because it’s so basic-looking almost any woman can look great in it. They just need to put on a pair of sunglasses, a nice scarf or a hat, take their big beach bag and they can join the navy in style!

Milan Catwalk Fashion fw2010: shoppinglist

While the fashion circus is traveling to the next stop – Paris – we thought it might be helpful to give you already a sort of shopping list. You’ll never know what you might run into during the sales !

Milan was all about slim suits in techno fabrics, mixed with bulky grandpa’s cardigan’s often used as a coat and a rough knitted aged sweater. Military style is back, especially in coats – look for navy duffels in blue, aviator-jackets in black/shearling, the Monty-coat and officer-coats in army-green with golden buttons.

Black is still the new black, but also all shades of gray. The darks are often mixed with rich colors as purple and burgundy. New are camel and off white, mixed with buttery yellow.

It seems men will have their own legging as well, regarding the many long-johns we spotted in the collections. It was a favorite of Dolce & Gabbana and maybe for some women, but we’re not sure men will like them. At home yes, outside hmm (maybe only underneath a comfy ski-overall). Instead of a long-john look for a slim, too short pant with or without ‘cuffs’.

The rough look is perfect with the military boots, beautifully aged at Burberry, polished at Bottega Veneta. Fans of modern classics can stick to the Gucci-loafer. More accessories: an Italian cap, berets and an army-bag.

One of the main messages the coming season is layering: a T-shirt, a denim shirt, a jacket, a cardigan or two, something leather, silver mesh or glitzy (like patent leather, or plastic). The style moves between polished Seventies style (like Prada), Fifties playboys (Gucci) and ageless rockers turned businessmen.

Catwalktrends ss2010: showstopping shoes

The designers gave the models a hard time walking the runway to show the spring/summer collections. The shoes they had to wear often had eye-catching shapes and heights.

The shoes in the Jil Sander show had iron pins for heels. Donatella Versace used platform shoes. John Galliano’s shoes were extremely high and his stiletto heels seemed to be made of colored pearls. Chanel introduced a few clogs.

Some models in the Dsquared show had spikes all over their shoes. Viktor & Rolf embellished theirs with pink flowers, Vivienne Westwood decorated hers with wings. Matthew Williamson’s shoes had bows.

Next to the ultra high shoes we saw ultra-flat sandals (Issey Miyake, Anna Sui, Valentino, Lacoste, Etro, Armani, Chloe). Those sandals, snake leather and wearing socks in open shoes seem to become the trends for this spring.

Of course the Alexander McQueen shoes were real showstoppers. His shoes were high, had crazy alienated shapes and had reptile prints all over them. Gaga oehlala…

Trends ss2010: sporty fashion

Hoodies, zippers, caps, sleeveless tops, short shiny jackets and net fabrics dominated the menswear collections for 2010. That can only mean one thing: sports influences.

There was the basketball look (Kris van Assche), the gymnastic look (Francisco van Benthum, Calvin Klein) and the football look (Bikkembergs). There were sailing types (Burberry), the boxer types (Ann DeMeulemeester), the diving types (Moncler Gamme Blue, Gucci) the golf player and the horse back rider (Frankie Morello).

Especially Gucci had a lot of shiny sports jackets, not referring to a specific sport.

Sportswear and casual wear really seemed to merge with each other on the catwalk. Of course menswear is always a little bit sporty, but this time sports were all over the place. However, whether a tanktop made  of a net fabric is very suitable for going to the office remains to be seen.

Trends ss2010: flower power

Since we feel the overall vibe of femininity  for next spring,  the floral prints we spotted fit perfectly in with that. The flowers were usually small ones, repeated hundreds of times on the fabric.

At the Jackson and Moschino fashion show it were Oxeye daisies. Yet other designers (Yves Saint Laurent, Luella Bartley, Oscar de la Renta, Dolce & Gabbana) used rose prints. Viktor & Rolf didn’t have floral prints in their clothes but they did use roses to decorate their pink boots.

Overall the flowers had a very classic feeling to it. The way they were painted and the colors that were used really felt like your grandmother’s wallpaper.

The prettiest floral prints were those of Dolce & Gabbana. Their perfect shapes and colors could be seen on r dresses, shorts, tops, jackets and lingerie. In one look a floral printed skirt was even mixed with a leopard printed top. Both with black lace on the edges.

The ss2010 collections lack lots of color, but the florals do add some brightness to next season.

Trends ss2010: tight fitted

At the menswear fashion shows we spotted lots of suits. Complete suits in one color or just combinations of pants and jackets. The remarkable thing about those pants and jackets was that they were all pretty tight fitting. So the muscular bodies of the models were clearly accentuated.

Givenchy, Gucci, Calvin Klein, Lanvin, Moschino and Paul Smith showed some tight  looks. The jackets were often left unbuttoned.

Another trend we saw at the menswear collections were the tucked up sleeves. The boys at the fashion shows of Costume National, Vivienne Westwood, Etro, Raf Simons Lanvin and John Richmond  had it all. We spotted some short sleeves as well at the Neil Barrett and the Cerrutti show.

So  wear your suit a little tighter next season. Loose fitted is so 2009!

Trends ss2010: sunglasses

When it comes to sunglasses every possible shape, size and color was presented on the runway.

We saw a crazy pair at the Ungaro fashion show which had diamonds all over the glasses. At Alexander Wang they were very pointy. At Hussein Chalayan they were pentagonal. In the Moschino show a few pairs had the shape of a flower.

Karl Lagerfeld put guitars on the side of his glasses. At Jenden they had all kinds of sparkling colorful rocks on the frame. And Louis Vuitton made them look like diving-glasses.
If there was a trend to be recognized among all those sunglasses it might be the one of the small circular Beatle glasses. They were there at the fashion shows of Erdem, Carolina Herrera, House of Holland, Iceberg and Schwab.

Another variant that stood out were the sunglasses with the pointy Fifties-inspired sides, which give someone the angry schoolteacher’s look. Jenny Packham, Rochas, Sonia Rykiel, Alexander Wang and Giles had them in their fashion show.

So, no specific look stood out for SS2010. Yet it might be time for the Beatle-glasses to return.

Trends ss2010: men in red

When we look at the menswear collections for spring/summer 2010 one thing immediately catches our attention:  together with black, white and beige we see lots of bright colors.

Blue, red and purple dominated the new collections, especially the ones by Bottega Veneta, CP Company, Dirk Bikkembergs, Armani and Ferragamo. At Ungaro the models wore lots of pink.

Since we saw mostly red in the spring/summer collection, let’s focus at that. It came by in dozens of different shades. At Armani, Ferragamo and Gaultier the red tended towards orange. At Lanvin and Emporio Armani a deep red prevailed. One of Paul Smith’s models was totally covered in red, including his shoes.

Many red coats passed by. A few in leather (Louis Vuitton, Burberry, Ferragamo, Iceberg), some trenchcoats (Paul Smith, Trussardi) and several jackets (Gucci, Bikkembergs, Bottega Veneta).

With so many shades of red there will surely be one that matches your skin tone. So no one has an excuse not to follow this red color trend next season.

Trends ss2010: lace details

Although lace is usually only seen in lingerie or underwear, we were now confronted with  lace in all kinds of daywear  in many shows. The largest  fashionbrands like Chanel, Dior, D&G, Oscar de la Renta, Cavalli, Valentino and Galliano introduced their clothing for the summer of 2010 with loads of lace.

The lace mostly came in neutral shades like black, white or beige. Yet in the Dior show we saw some black mixed with bright colors, like purple or pink. Erdem showed a combination of blue and black. At the fashion show of Antonio Marras  lace was mintgreen. And the models at Nina Ricci wore it in nudes and navy blue.

Jenny Packham designed some great feminine dresses in white lace. Paola Frani came up with a stunning jumpsuit in black lace. Barbara Bui made a few wonderful black lace jackets and Jasper Conran’s lace dresses felt a little bit like wedingdresses. At the Chanel fashion show the models wore many layers, topped with lace.

The most outstanding lace designs were a white mini dress with puffy shoulders from Jill Stuart and an elegant lace dress and jacket from Oscar de la Renta.

Introducing lace as a new trend for summer seems perfect. The fabric is airy and comfortable and makes women feel and look very ladylike.

Trends ss2010: skinny pants

Although the first celebs are already wearing wide-legged jeans, the skinny trend continues. For spring/summer 2010 the long and skinny model legs were still accentuated by tight leggings or ulta skinny pants. Not in denim, but different kind of materials.

Often it was hard to distinguish a pant from a legging, as they were equally tight. The skinny pants were often combined with loosely-fitting long tops, blouses or jackets.

At the Balmain fashion show there were skinnies in black and (glittery) camouflage. Barbara Bui designed hers with fish scales. Balenciaga’s pants had leather details. The Burberry and the Ungaro pants were pleated from bottom to top. At the Chanel Fashion show the boys wore the same black/green skinny pants as the girls. Roberto and Eva Cavalli designed a pair of light and shiny trousers with horizontal tears. The skinny pants from Matthew Williamson, Tony Cohen, Givenchy and Versace had all kinds of  patterns.

Since the skinny pants and the loose-fitting tops make such a great outfit together, it’s not time yet for the wide pants to return.

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