First View Paris Womenswear FW2013: Homme/Femme

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No worries, no battles, but the male/female story seems one of this seasons headlines. From “Garçonne”, the boyish look tailor-made for women, to military influences, Bowie androgyny, collegiate prep and just elegant women wearing the pants…

Colors were almost entirely plays on black, in different shades and textures, and with neckties wafting gently, like the soft, full pants. Bespoke tailoring alternates with nonchalance in plus size jackets with cool swagger. Decorative details soften an otherwise severely serious look.

Vanessa Bruno showed the boy stuff in boxy pinstriped jackets; contrast collared shirts and full pleated pants. Raf Simons showed patented perfection with couture class. Dries van Noten, added some collegiate Fred to frilly Ginger, which made a gorgeous cocktail. Lanvin topped youthful innocence on couture looks by adding talkative jewelry.

One thing is clear; no one felt for clashes, this was all love and peace between man and women. This is just the ideal gear for contemporary women; elegant clothes that connect the genders, classic icons of masculinity and femininity, clothes that are comfortable, wearable and decent.

For women well in control of there lives as well as there looks.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View Milan Womenswear FW2013: Film Noir

Where fashion is more and more about garments and less about obvious trends that break with previous seasons, here we DO have a trend. It is back to the 40’s with a Film Noir twist. Not that we haven’t been there before. But here it is invigorated with a refreshing raw edge. Refined and elegant, sexy as well as romantic, revealing bits of darkness and gloom.

Miuccia Prada launched her exercise in fashion as cinema. She stages stories of woman and life. ‘Who cares about the dress?’ was her genius quote on Style.com. That is such a meaningful sentence. It is the emotion surrounding the garments that counts and nothing can light up the fire as powerful music and a filmic set.

Nevertheless this was all about lovely lean tailoring, extremely luxurious in desirable fabrics. Beautiful garments as cabans, peplum jackets and hourglass dresses with exaggerated hips. Tailleurs, fishnets and gloves to match with long curvaceous skirts.

Prada referenced Film Noir. She staged the obsessions and passions she shares with both David Lynch and Alfred Hitchcock.

Gucci was darker; adding austerity, vigor and fetish. An ode to craft, embellishing power women and femmes fatales. Dsquared² dived deep into the 40’s with curvy skirt suits and shapely double-breasted jackets. All very costumy and posed.

Let’s make movies!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: an Englishman in New York

Here is a very clear and retail-friendly trend to spot. Classic English tailoring, menswear suiting materials and silhouettes referencing collegiate prep. Not that we have never seen this before. This is all about comfort and ease, not so much in the fit but more in mindset – looking good, no shock, no unease and absolutely no risk. Luckily there are some designers to give this look a twist. By adding a touch of futurism in bonded materials or a quiet but brave re-proportioning of the silhouette. But mostly this is about referencing the classic, the authentic and re-viving as well as re-living tradition in Peacoats and double-breasted coats and blazers combined with abbreviated minis.

Tommy Hilfiger stays close to its preppy roots with Prince of Wales checks and hound’s-tooth checks and plaids. Rag & Bone, adds modernity by re-proportioning and mixing materials and textures. Victoria Beckham layers her skin-tight and sexy dresses with mannish but nevertheless sensual coats. Then have a look at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Y3 and Thom Browne to see how they manage to merge these icons of tailoring with their personal signature.

Hail to history and now back to the future please!

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

 

First View New York Womenswear FW2013: Going Green

As design goes green and the possibilities of green fashion are being reconsidered the title of this kick-off of New York Fashion Week might give us high hopes. Yet green in New York is the shade of a smart mixture of nature and artifice unified in disciplined outfits with military references and work wear details. Though stern in principle the outcome is ultra feminine and tailored showing a defined, sinuous silhouette. The green hues range from olive, army and loden to tender and marbled leave shades.

Lacoste shows sculpted leather dresses with diagonal zips. Where Richard Chai stages neat tailoring in stern uniforms finished with a glamorous polish.

Rag & Bone has chosen aviation as a starting point in a free interpretation of vintage flight suits and flight attendant uniforms. Urban nomads, dressed by Nicholas K, wear sheltering layers of intriguing textures in a myriad of greens, where the modern-day Amazones of Prabal Gurung show utilitarian city-combat styles. A sturdy look that is inspired by the Ukraine’s Asgarda tribes.

Hopefully this trend symbolizes ‘the green light’ towards excitement.

Stylespot is a collaboration with Stijlinstituut Amsterdam

Streetstyle Trend: Classic Camel

Some trends start on the streets, others begin on the catwalk. The camel coat is one of those catwalk wonders. From MaxMara and Chloe to Gucci, Hermes and Michael Kors; it was in every show a few seasons ago and now it’s a big streetstyle trend. Models, bloggers, editors, photographers; everyone is sporting the classic coat look. And we can’t blame them. Those camel coats look both soft and warm and go well with just about anything. Pick a XL version and you’re joining in on the oversize fall trend as well. Wear it big or tie things up with a small belt around the waist. Just keep it classic and you can’t go wrong!

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Go Green!

We guess the forester is our latest trend setter when it comes to this look. Wearing deep green shades from head to toe really ís one of fall’s hottest looks. Hermes, Dior, Burberry Raf Simons and many others proved next to black, white and burgundy you don’t really need any color in your wardrobe. Match your shirt, tie, hat and pants like Dior or play around with different nature inspired shades like Cerruti. Go shop for green (both color-  and sustainable wise).

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Cape Fearless

It definitely is a fashion piece for style daredevils. We didn’t name it cape fearless for no reason! Yet if a guy knows how to wear this latest fashion trend well, he’ll immediately jump to the top of this year’s best dressed list. It’s rather difficult, we have to admit. There’s a fine line between looking like a magician or a fashion forward trend setter. Just take some inspiration from Dolce & Gabbana, Dior, Roberto Cavalli and Calvin Klein and see if you’re up for it.

Streetwear Trend: Make a statement

You have the right shoes, this season’s it-bag and you’re rocking a splendid dress, yet the real show stopper probably is your necklace. 2012 has been all about the statement necklaces. The bolder, brighter and crazier shaped the better. Streetstyle icons like Elisa Nalin, Miroslava Duma and Anna dello Russo made head’s turn in the streets with their mesmerizing jewelry. And did you see Elena Perminova’s legs necklace paired with this season’s it-sweater by Kenzo? Really, when it comes to this streetstyle trend anything goes. Fruit, flowers, birds and ice creams make some outstanding necklaces. And you can even try and DIY your very own. Just combine it with a colorful look and let the necklace do the talking…

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: The Man Purse

It’s out with the totes, weekenders and backpacks and in with the purses and clutches. For men, that is. Costume National, Yves Saint Laurent, Louis Vuitton and many others showed some slick examples of pretty manly purses. For man to carry underneath their arms or just to hold in one hand. Some would fit a laptop and an agenda, other looked perfect for an i-pad or just a fashion show invitation (yes, you need a bag for that!). In any case, the bags still looked manly enough. Leather materials, large belts and buckles did that trick. And though that little brown bag Jil Sander introduced might not look like a purse at all, we like it anyway.

Trend Fall/Winter 2012/2013: Winter Hit

After it became a massive hit in the streets designers are all working with burgundy now. It’s a shade that perfectly works for both men and women and can be either street chic or formally fashionable. Leather, velvet, satin or wool; the possibilities with this winter color are endless. Big labels like Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermes, Jean Paul Gaultier and Gucci showed just how versatile burgundy is and definitely put this shade on the fashion map for 2012/2013. Click through our burgundy gallery and get inspired.

Have you seen our Burgundy streetstyle trend report yet?

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