Tom Ford’s show notes spoke of the essence of him being a designer, the reason why. “I became a designer, because I wanted to make men and women feel more beautiful and to empower them with a feeling of confidence. A feeling of knowing that they looked their best and could then present their best selves to the world. I wanted to make clothes that were flattering. That make one look taller and slimmer and more beautiful or more handsome.” And ever since the designer really put himself on the map in the mid-1990s he did just that.
SS2019 was no exception. To the sounds of Netflix series Babylon Berlin’s theme song he sent out an army of fierce looking women and some men. Cardi B, who created a lipstick with Tom ford that this week sold out in a day, was present among some other celebs.
The guys wore suits with shirts and sweaters with a pair of statement glasses.They main womenswear outfit was a mismatched powder shaded skirt suit in a mix of lace, satin and silk materials. Another big theme in the collection was croc leather popping up in the shape of jackets, belts, bags, bracelets and wallets in shades of black, green and lilac.
There were some impeccable trench coats, a leopard printed pony skin coat and a selection of the sexiest party pieces. Like a deconstructed tux or a sheer and body tight little black dress. Every look was styled off by a pair of pointy shoes with ankle straps and the female models sported silk scarves on their heads. Like Tom Ford promised in his show notes he made his models look their best; glamorous, confident, seductive and sexy af.
The spring summer collection Tom Ford presented was a classic one: the calculated decadence we know so well from Ford, rendered in a split between athletic-derived sportswear and power-woman goddess gowns. Crossover of athletica into the primary daywear vernacular aside, Ford loves tailored polish. He opened with a bold-shouldered pale pink satin tuxedo jacket over a liquid metallic top and short-shorts, rolled at the hem. Unlike the old Gucci days when he worked the daylights out of a single look, here he offered options, some approachably chic, others challenging to all but the most secure of attitude and body image: classic pantsuits, dressed-up dark denim, short leather trenches and racy jumpsuits. One, a long, backless drink of water in white crepe, rang the bell of a long-ago Gucci dress with a cutout abdomen. An infusion of wit came in an only Tom take on the twinset: slouchy chain mail shoulder bag and matching briefs worn with a louche pale pink top. As for the eveningwear, strong shoulders and sequined sleeves transported classic draping from ethereal to aggressive, as glam as it gets.
The takeaway was of familiar audacity. Ford believes genuinely in the transformative power of clothes.
It didn’t come easily. To replicate the original getups, Ford wanted old-school tube socks, to the knee, but his staff came up empty — today’s versions hit midcalf. Someone then thought to cut the sock foot into a thong, thus extending the overall length. Tailored tube socks. Aspiration realized takes many forms.
Finally we can watch Tom Ford’s whole spring/summer collection. Today the video of the – very exclusive – fashion show was launched. See how singer Beyonce, actrice Julianne Moore and daughter of editor in chief of French Vogue Carine Roitfeld, Julia Restoin Roitfeld, work the runway!
Our own fashiondictionary Crazy Uncle You only find him at small shows of starting designers, and he is often family. You'll recognize him by the clothes and shoes he wears: All wrong (Mephisto shoes, photo-vest, toy-camera). He ALWAYS appears in the frame of the professional photographer and stands in the way. He doesn't have a clue about everything. Related to: crazy aunt.