Thom Browne Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2013

While blindfolded models hammering on a wooden construction formed the backdrop of Thom Browne’s fashion show, his walking models appeared from behind. The fact that they wore checked skirts and dress like designs could have been enough to keep us press interested. Yet Browne added an extra dimension to his looks, making them unique yet unwearable. His grey flannel suits, his cross printed vest, his checked pants and illusionist coat; they were all done in a boxy style. The effect of the square fits and the super stiff shoulders was even amplified by his square hats, rectangular sunglasses and geometric suitcases. Let’s hope Browne hat some real boxes hidden underneath his designs, so that when he removes those, he can actually sell some of these fall/winter creations.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2012

Ten coffins had been arranged in a row. They held the bodies of “ten beautiful girls who died for fashion,” according to a gray-suited female rector who introduced the scenario at Thom Browne. The clothes were meant to represent their final reverie. Browne’s scenario called for his victims to be reanimated by their love of fashion. They clambered out of their coffins and stood sentinel-like while models meandered around them. They were dressed in layered, folded, draped, parachuted and reptilian-spiked creations. Tailored jackets and skirts of varying lengths were layered on top of one another while fox scarves in wool, complete with head and legs, were draped over models’ shoulders.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show New York FW2011

Thom Browne’s first proper show of his women’s collection was a special kind of spectacle. He transformed the New York Public Library into a church with a convent’s worth of models dressed like nuns. Finally Browne found a way to mix his Catholic upbringing and his fascination for uniforms. His nuns marched in covered up except for the gigantic fake eyelashes peeking out from beneath their habits. One by one the girls were liberated from their cloaks by a pair of altar boys, only to reveal clothes that were the real cross to bear.

Underneath there were elements of Browne’s menswear vocabulary: checks, extreme proportions, difficult layering, and an absolute upending of red-white-and-blue tradition. Browne encased each woman in ultra-stiff, tailored layers done in exaggerated proportions with a preppy, varsity theme. There were shrunken suits in mismatched plaids,  blazers with giant peplums and layered maxi coats with shirttail hems, some of which will be wearable once the look is dismantled.

There was absolutely no sex in this collection, restriction was everywhere: the models walked without moving their arms, turtlenecks were pulled up over their mouths, and molded bubble skirts and tops looked about as comfortable as a straight jacket. That seemed precisely the point. One of the finale looks actually included a skirt made out of a cage of red and blue ribbon.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Moncler Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

Thom Browne did it again for Moncler. The US-based designer favors big shows in big spaces al orchestrated with military precision and tyhis time he chose an arena for his hunting-theme collection. Unfortunately for him you cannot orchestrate Beagles the way you do humans, so  the animals brought some life and laugh to the presentation. The collection itse;f consisted of long (waxed) coats in black and green, bodywarmers, colorful turtlenecks and checks for pants.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The die-hard fashionpack already knew where Thom Browne was capable of. They’ve seen his shows from New York, for the Italian Moncler-label in Milan and his presentation at Firenze a few years ago. Browne’s shows are set up like a military operation, a huge set, models acting as a group on stage and all dressed alike.

So the set of of his first menswearshow in Paris was not surprising, but still overwhelming. The location was a large conference room at the official headquarters of the French Communist Party in Paris, designed by Oscar Niemeyer. The audience had to sit behinds the desks where party-members used to sit an debate about the cold war. As an American in Paris, the choice for the venue was – well – daring. Also because Browne kept pointing at historical ‘fights’ between the USA and USSR. For example the army of astronauts which opened the show by marching into the room. The models were hidden in the space-suits, and they all stepped out  at the same time dressed identically.

Their dress-code was boyish, and typical Thom Browne: a tight jacket with shorts, socks and brogues. They came in checks, blue, black, khaki, stripes or decorated with little bows, some had a flash of sequins. Eye-catching were the knee-high socks, the gold-frosted lips and the gold-colored mirroring sunglasses. Browne made himself clear.

Thom Browne Catwalk Fashion Show SS10