Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Paris.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

For his spring summer 2011-collection Dries van Noten looked at the mod and ska, two Britisch subcultures. From the mods he took the precise tailoring and classic coats. The ska-influence was visible in the snow washed denim, sleeveless t-shirts, short jackets and the black and white.

The styling looked a bit boyish now and then with the baggy bermudas, armyboots and doublebreasted jackets. Navy, white and black were the main colors, with a touch of seventies brown.

Some shirts and jackets stood out because of the splashed watercolors, they were actually handpainted by a couture-atelier in Lake Como. But somehow this was not one of Van Noten’s best collections. It looked a bit forced and lacked that typical casual/romantic/gentleman feeling.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The Louis Vuitton-collection hit all the commercial notes. Washed denim bags, printed scarves and shirts with chinese tattoo prints and clothes with a sense of travel and adventure. The prints were designed by tattoo-artist Scott Campbell and they even appeared on the models skin the LV-monogram included.

The clothes should make every man eager, since he lost his appetite in a great suit.  Constructions of jackets were functional, fabrics were kept lightweight – inspired by parachutes – and some jackets came in pebbled leather or colored python. There even was a camouflage-like leopard-print.

It all had a sporty, outdoor vibe, not only because of the fabrics (nylon, silk), but also because of the construction and looks: bermuda’s, shorts, quilted short jackets. Shirts looked inspired by the middle-east, especially those thin, semi-transparent shirts with tattoo-prints and T-shirts. Colors were kept modest, lots of (dark)blue, black, beige, white and gray.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

The overall message this season is redefining contemporary dressing. And Viktor & Rolf  practice this message since they started designing menswear. Their hero for the summercollection 2011 was a 1940’s moviestar on vacation at Biarritz. In his suitcase he got a streamlined suit with elongated jackets and wider lapels – sometimes in contrasting colors, piped or with sequins -,  short sleeved sweaters, a bermuda and leather sandals.

Viktor & Rolf chose typical summer fabrics like seersucker and a madras-check. Colors were kept light, as in white, chocolate-brown, blue and gray. Patent-leather shoes in blue, black and white contrasted with the beige and black/blue.

Singer/performer La Roux (aka Elly Jackson) appeared as their special guest at the Monsieur -show. Viktor & Rolf: “When we first saw La Roux on TV, we were immediately drawn to her.  We were intrigued by the way she plays with expectations about gender and we love her authentic way of dressing.  Her boyish attitude mixed with her high-pitched voice creates a great contradiction.  We had this vision to dress her in our Monsieur line, but made to measure for her and that’s what we’ve done: a blue silk jacket with a black top and black tuxedo pants.  We consider it menswear, adapted to a woman.”

La Roux said “I was thrilled to be asked to play at Viktor & Rolf’s Paris show. I’m a very big fan of theirs and for me it’s a natural fit, my music and their style. I look forward to future collaborations with them.” La Roux performed an exclusive acoustic set for the designers and their audience.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

This time twin-brothers Dean and Dan Caten took the movie American Gigolo as their inspiration for the spring summer 2011 collection. It’s an ambitious choice, since the suits Richard Gere wore in the move were designed by Giorgio Armani. But the collection wasn’t about the look of Gere, it was about the luxurious lifestyle these guys lead and their attitude.

So the model looked tanned, handsome, in great shape and were dressed in tight trousers and unbuttoned shirts. The once ultra ultra low DSquared-jeans appeared with high waist and a flare – so that means you will have to get rid of that belly, boys. Jeans were mixed with (shiny) shirts, blue was the main color besides bright colors like red and green.

The overall look was rather dressed with a casual feel like we’ve seen before this week in Milan.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2011 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Milan.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Three ninjas dressed in black dramatically lit a big Olympic Flame at the courtyard of the Palazzo del Senato’s courtyard – it marked the start of the Roberto Cavalli show but also the celebration of his 40th anniversary.

Instead of digging into his heritage of rich hippie westcoast rock-dandy dressing a la Lenny Kravitz (those were the most interesting and exciting collections of Cavalli) the designer got stuck in black/white/blue suits mixed with animalprints at shirts and kerchiefs. Wild were the pants and shirts with big flowerprints Cavalli saw in Indonesia – but somehow it all looked too uninspired and a bit hurried. It’s a pity, because men’s fashion can use some spicy stuff.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Givenchy-slippers, your latest Comme des Garcons-bermuda or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: menswear fashionweek in Milan.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

It was a hypnotizing soundtrack at D&G’s ss2011-show. N.E.R.D.’s Hot ‘n Fun played in a loop while the models strolled along the field of fresh green grass all dressed up for a country picnic. It felt  like one of those hazy, lazy days.

The vibe reminded of the innocent fifties as seen in movies, with happy people, days full of sunshine and the picnic as the ultimate day-trip. Well, with the D&G-boys keeping you company it will definitely be an unforgettable experience!

Loose fitted khaki’s and Vichy-checks for shirts, polo’s, pants and espadrilles formed the most important part of the collection. Sleeves and legs were rolled up, bare feet were stuck in sandals or vintage sneakers. Some faded flowerprints popped up at jackets and polo’s. Colors looked like they were faded by the sunlight, there was just a hint of green, gray, red, blue and brown. The light colored tuxedo’s were simply striking, never knew yellow, blue and green could be so near white. It matched beautifully with the white shirts and pants.

The season’s T-shirt was decorated with a portrait of Johnny Depp as seen in Cry Baby and a painting by Edouard Manet, Le dejeuner sur l’erbe.

Gucci Catwalk Fashion Show SS2011

Oh, that Gucci playboy! I loved every outfit that he showed this morning. From his deep blue slim fitted suit to his suede shorts with cotton knit sweater. And of course that kerchief around his neck and those bare feet in the houses signature loafers. Frida Giannini sticks to what Gucci stands for: slick menswear with a slightly dangerous touch and shaggy seventies feeling.

It was simply a very commercial collection, but there is nothing wrong with the way Giannini does it. As long as is has that luxury, playboy feeling. The suits in midnight blue were chic and fresh, for those lazy summerdays there are shorts, silk shirts with a classic scarf-print, cotton knit cardigans and sweaters and a laid back tuxedo in chocolate-brown, dark-blue or green.

And all those clothes fit easily in the new big Gucci-bag.

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