Calm and charm was the mood. Long and lean were the silhouettes. Light and airy the materials. Evening wear and black tie the dress codes. Goga Ashkenazi who revitalized Vionnet with her take on SS2016 made it clear the brand won’t be a go to label for any 9 to 5 look. An olive green poured pleated chiffon gown and a crafted silver-ish number that followed three looks later were the breathtaking highlights of her collection. Dedicated to woman as nymph the dreamy clothes felt almost ethereal. Yet sporty touches, a number of pants, cris cross lines and T-shirt dresses kept our feet right at the ground. Golden accessories curling up to the models bodies like little twigs appeared so very graceful. Let’s just hope the everyday woman will have plenty of occasions to wear these creations to, so the brand new Vionnet boutique opened in Paris this week can actually do some business.
Shortly after H&M released it’s campaign images for the upcoming Balmain x H&M collection it was time for designer Olivier Rousteing to shine with his SS2016 collection for Balmain. And like many designers who collaborated with the Swedish fashion brand before, Rousteing too was influenced by it. Preparing a capsule collection for H&M had encouraged him to examine what he stood for. So today’s spring/summer show was as close to his core as a Balmain designer as it gets. Resulting in a extraordinary line-up of attention grabbing, figure hugging and jaw dropping outfits. Sensuality was in every fiber of this collection and like real African amazons – high pony tails, statement chandelier earrings, accentuated waists and necklines – the diverse models strutted their stuff. Oranges, mustards, blues and greens felt earthy as the collection appeared lighter than Rousteing’s previous ones. Yes, there was still a lot of craftsmanship in the macramé (big trend for SS2016), yet the pieces seemed less stiff and rigid. Sheerness, cut-outs, see through and peekaboo added lightness as flounces gave the designs extra fluency.
An army of supermodels on the runway (including ‘our’ Doutzen, but also some modeling’s rising stars and Instagram queens), a Michael Jackson soundtrack, VIP’s (including Gigi Hadid’s beau Joe Jonas and Kendall Jenner’s mom Kris) and all the extra H&M collaboration buzz. If it wasn’t for those head-turning looks, the Balmain show still was the hottest ticket of the week (so far).
What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Fashion Week.
For her SS16 collection Liselore Frowijn has been playing with the word power and the meaning of it. A powerful woman is the one who dares to stand at the frontline, to be bold and brave. Frowijn was touched by the boldness and pureness of the monumental colorband-works by artist Sol Lewitt. It were these paintings she used as an inspiration to develop screen-printed, knitted and embroidered graphics in the collection.
She worked with fresh primary colors together with whites and tones of brown, to create a laminated and edgy look, playing with voluminous and tight silhouettes. She wishes to create an optimistic and energetic image. A dynamic universe is created by using organic and geometric shapes; the collection is like a cubistic kaleidoscope.
Famous for his self-titled shade of ‘greige’ Giorgio Armani presented us with a rather colourful collection for coming summer. Navy and icy greige were given feminine touches of flame, lacquer, and geranium. Proof that it’s never too late (Armani has been celebrating it’s 40th anniversary) to shake things up a bit. The overall feel of the collection wasn’t necessarily different, but all creations did have an uncommon sense of lightness. One that made sassy cocktail looks (in the form of high waisted shorts, sheer tops and embroidered tailored jackets or see through billowy skirts and macramé tops) appear even more elegant. Fresh felt a floral printed red jumpsuit in contrast to some of the more classic Armani ensembles of long wide legged pants and red/white striped tops. Models may have been fully dressed, airy materials turned their clothing into the chicest fashion pieces. While transparency might turn out cheap or trashy in the hands of other designers, maestro Armani made his weightless designs highly desirable. Whether office bound or off to a fancy party Armani’s weightless spring summer attire will make sure you’ll float off to any occasion.
What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.
On Sunday morning Consuelo Castiglione sure woke us up with his poppy mix of all things Marni presented to the tunes of Nina Simone’s ‘Baltimore’. For spring/summer his primary colored designs seemed bolt in every way. Shades, silhouettes, proportions, detailing and styling; it was all a lot, yet never too much for Marni. Asymmetric color block looks followed each other up on the runway. Bright turtle neck worn underneath tunics and boxy jackets paired with ultra wide flares. Leave printed tunic co-ords, shiny jackets with rounded, tucked up sleeves and a series of silky black evening numbers. Sequins, loose straps, mesh details; all the SS2016 trends we spotted before (at NYFW) were there, but magnified for Marni. Eye catching earrings, statement sunnies,multiple bangles, exaggerated zippers and large chain bags in the mix. Strong partings and Twiggy lashes to the touch. This was a blunt Marni at it’s best, ‘fashion’ written all over it and perhaps the start of a huuuge upcoming maximalism trend (after so many seasons of cleanness and sobriety it’s about time).
For Jil Sander SS2016 Rodolfo Paglialunga came up with the label’s most sexy collection so far. In line with what seems to be the SS trend Jil Sander’s signature clean, sharp and sober gave way for more soft tailored and gentle creations. Jackets got sliced open at the shoulders and cut-outs were added at the waists and hems. Off shoulder and low necklines added to the seductiveness as fully buttoned blouses and 7/8 trousers were followed up by layered looks with a focus on midi lengths. Rather high straw hats, loose straps, rubber black belts and snake skin bags gave the collection it’s playful touch. A collection that balanced on two thoughts; the Jil Sander like we know it and the new direction Paglialunga is taking it. Stiff colored leather and shiny silk. Two rather conflicting styles and therefore not the strongest statement Paglialunga could have made. Still his special sleeved suits left a big impression and will be the chicest thing come spring.
#animalistic and #sporty probably were often used hashtags at the Bottega Veneta show this morning. Inspired by the outdoors Thomas Maier opened his show with a hoodie and 7/8 pants done in nature inspired (camouflage meets mosaic) and leopard prints. A look that set the mood for one of the most laid back Veneta collections in a while, evolved around themes like hiking and sailing. Grommet, ropes and fishnet detailing referred to the latter (seen earlier at SportMax too). Models wearing their hair in post-gym knots looked look like they’d been outside, trekking, walking, living. “The more I can get out of an urban environment, the better it gets,” said the Miami-based German designer. A mix of fleece, calf and lots of craftsmanship detailing added dept to the looks. Leather lining and satin ribbons not only gave perfect shape, together with the large pockets and zippers they added to the sportive vibe of some looks too. The silhouette was athletic as well. Those 7/8 pants, hooded tops with tucked up sleeves, midi skirts with short stiff leather jackets and a variety of cocktail dresses (suitable for most diverse occasions) in the mix. A blunt bundle of eclecticism and freedom in a collection that went back and forth with it’s dress code. Therefore we’re not quite sure in what style category we’ll place it, but there’s time to evaluate. Needless to say the accompanying leather bags were impeccable.
What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Valentino dress, that vintage Dior or their latest Celine skirt? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.
Our own fashiondictionary Stevie Wonder Collection Means: not good! Whenever you see a collection and you run out of words to describe how bad it was, you call it a Stevie Wonder Collection. It's just a nice way to say the collection sucks.