Maison Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Maison Martin Margiela opened with a series of ladylike looks that included skirts with a surprising new length, just around the lower calf. Very chic indeed, although we’re curious how they would portray on an average woman. They were followed by high waisted pants mixed with long, strapless A-line tops. Together with perfectly tailored short sleeved jackets those pants created an elegant modern suit (yet becoming less elegant as Ruby Aldridge wore hers twisted and tied around her upper body).
Two back revealing jumpsuits were added and the focus on sexy stayed at the back for a few more looks. Like a green leather high slit skirt and top or a strapless burgundy dress creation.
The finale of enormous floor length dresses included a jersey T-dress, which could easily have fitted three models in it. But that XXL feeling is what gave the collection it’s twisted elegance. Add a few pairs of those signature gloves and a selection of pretty chic nose rings and you get an idea why Margiela is so unlike any other brand and keeps on doing so well.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Raf Simons surprised the audience with a feminine and refined collection. Almost like a literal clean slate, the show opened with a series of crisp black suits and neck-scarves, before descending into jacket dresses and mini ballgowns.  Styles which Raf Simons described as both “feminine” and “complex” in equal measure. The finale consisted of couture-worthy silhouettes with voluminous printed skirts and skintight black tops. It was beautiful, strange and unusual – so precise but so varied.

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Peter Copping seemed to have turned a new page at Nina Ricci. He added some edge to the normally so soft and feminine label, or, in his own words, brought a bit of London to Paris.

He opened the show with a full black look; a jacket and a skirt underneath which Manon Leloup wore a mesh top and a harness detail. A touch of bondage, yet still chic enough to fit the label’s heritage.

What followed were slightly undefined layered dress with ruffles and fringes in pink, black, navy and a few pastel shades. They had a certain twenties feeling to them, although the models’ waists were too accentuated for that.

Sweet skirt suits and polka dot dresses in shiny gray and nude were funked up by multiple chunky chain necklaces. A sheer polka dot top worn with a playful hairy skirt looked daring.

It seems Copping took the right amount of risk as he made sure he kept everyone’s attention throughout the show, without completely shocking the fashion crowd.

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Rick Owens was in an angelic mood looking at the collection and the clouds that came tumbling down from the catwalk entrance.
The models came in dresses of puffed-out proportions to match those of the clouds behind them – strapless and semi-transparent inflated dresses in soft grey or apricot shades. There were capes that followed in the same vein and further dresses that splayed out from off the shoulder. It was more feminine and light and pretty than we have seen from Rick Owens before.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Having celebrated his tenth anniversary last season it was time for a new start for Alber Elbaz. He came up with a collection that was about purity and precision, yet not about control and minimalism, so he stated.

Elbaz worked on “deconstructed classicism.” He used smoking references and mixed them up with Japanese influences like kimono details and obi belts. He added a sexy dose of asymmetry, which was about the sexiest on a black bathing suit, matched with a pair of pants.

Constructed futuristic party looks full of metallic details followed. Though super modern, all the black & white made the designs appear classic. Next to his signature draping Elbaz used quite a bit of folding and of course his popular one shoulder dresses made their appearance.

A finale of several duo colored satin dresses was a cheerful closing to an all black and white show, that perhaps breathe classicism yet definitely was the beginning of something new.

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Skin was the big news at Balenciaga. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière told the press before the show that its was “the most sensual collection I’ve ever done”. It was all about  stiff ruffles, movement, a-symmetric cut and technical fabrics, dense embroideries that looked like tweeds,  lace fused to molded synthetics, and T-shirt knits dipped in glue for stiffness.
Ghesquière set the tone with the first model’s midriff-baring molded bra and high-waisted pants. And from there came out swinging, slitting long black skirts almost to the hipbone and edging them with deep ruffles.  Asymmetric skirts pushed the leg-theme further, and even the pantsuits were paired with  bra tops.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Gareth Pugh held strictly to his linear graphic style for his ss2013 collection, but this time it seemed softer, even more romantic than before. He even threw in scarlet red to change his palet of black, white and gray. Pugh was inspired by cockfighting, which explained the bloodred, the long hems and extended train-like sleeves. Plus the bloodred make-up. He also put in some flamenco-vibe and Japanese details.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

She was not attending the show herself, yet Mugler still had a touch of Gaga as her new rap song ‘Cake’ was the show’s soundtrack. Clothes didn’t feel very Gaga compared to last season’s over the top creations. This time around Nicola Formichetti and Sébastien Peigné opted for simpler pieces, yet that didn’t mean things got dull…

Structured looks followed each other on the runway. Dresses had architectural skirts and graphic shoulders. Pieces were folded, in line with the origami trend we spotted at some many other shows. And the Eastern influences continued in a kimono style gold printed top.

Gorgeous were the creations in which think patent leather and sheer organza were brought together. A burgundy dress with a layered skirt  and a mustard yellow skirt with printed top, all in patent leather, were the true showpieces.

New were the Mugler handbags, which Formichetti himself carried on to the runway as he made his appearance.

For Mugler next summer is all about picking up the trends started this season (burgundy, patent leather, eastern influences, structured shapes) and taking them to a whole new level.

 

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Dries van Noten always follows his own feeling, that makes his collections so real and honest. For ss2013 the Belgian designer mixed everything he loved – mens/womenswear, grunge and spontaneity – in a contemporary collection. He had enough of minimalism and plainness – just at the time nearly every designer is going for minimal elegance. Van Noten took basic pieces and cut them in the plaids and checks of retro street culture, pattern clashing against pattern, sometimes in the same garment. Yet lightness reigned, in both color (muted pastels that held court with earthier tones) and in the constructions of the fabrics.
Like much of the tailoring, the  decorativeness was informed by the designer’s fascination with couture. Skirts were adorned in front with appliqués of rosettes; a sweater got embroidered sleeves; organza ruffles became a wrap.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A shimmery bra-and-brief look combined with a pair of wrestling shoes? At Rochas Marco Zanini proved he knows just how to combine quirky and chic. Dressed in beautifully tailored creations made from the finest fabrics his models appeared classy with a sporty touch.

Comfortable polo shirts with shorts and a wide legged pair of pants matched with a muscled mid rif revealing white top looked like tennis court material. Yet done in softly sparkling stretch brocade they were just a little too fancy.

Done in a gorgeous palette of whites, nudes and silver Zanini introduced over the knee pencil skirts and polo’s, slip dresses, full airy skirts and turtle necks, a maxi coat, a shirt dress and quite a few more cropped tops. He added some beach-y elegance in the shape of a chrysanthemum printed high waisted bikini, before changing into a darker mood.

A few looks in black and later in red included silk corset dresses, hoop skirts and a chic little twin set. A floor sweeping cape worn over a bikini was Zanini’s glamorous alternative to the old school pareo. Headbands worn as sun visors, with corsages at the back, round shaped sunnies, small belts one or two bags and those poppy red lips was all else this collection needed.

Rochas was chic, simple and sporty and according to Sophie Rochas the most beautiful collection of Zanini’s hand so far.

 

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