Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Turquoise, camel, brown, yellow and blue; a gorgeous color palette was Christophe Lemaire’s first hit ingredient to the Hermès spring collection. His oriental aloha prints that popped up several times during the show were a second success part. And combined with perfect tailoring; there were lots of strong looks to be spotted.

Full on leather looks, like a turquoise croc ensemble, and leather detailing put the H into Hermès. And of course new Birkin bags (a weekender and a backpack) had to be introduced.

To complete the celebration of all things Hermès the models wore the brand’s scarves (in contrasting prints) around their necks (held together by a chic pin) and around their wrists. Even a fashion newby would be able to see what articles Hermès’ focuses on. Yet we don’t blame Lemaire. A heritage as strong as that of Hermès has all the right to be put on display.

Costume National Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

A new kind of minimalism was Ennio Capasa’s starting point for Costume National SS2013. With so many brands focusing on minimalism the designer decided to bring something different to the table; minimalism with more technique, elegance and more of a couture feeling. His creations indeed were minimalism with a twist. A twist mostly formed by a print of an aloe leaf and bird wing snipped with scissors (even on a pair on sunglasses!). Capasa experienced with color too; mixing unlikely shades as red and fuchsia, but also navy and black together in a series of tuxedo looks. Matador hats, leather clutch bags and unexpected asymmetrical details in almost every piece of fabric further strengthened the collection. One thing’s for certain CN’s minimalism was unlike any other kind we’ve seen the last couple of weeks.

 

Céline Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Phoebe Philo returned to a traditional show for spring. Philo’s clearest message was a twist of fabric, a wide bandeau of sorts, across the bodice of T-shirts and other tops. Sometimes tone-on-tone, sometimes with an additional twist of black netting against white.  There was rawness  in unsewn hems, whether fully frayed or with a few long threads flying about.
While Philo still loves a slouchy, mannish silhouette, she also included looks with leaner, more sensual lines. Another nod to the vibe: dresses with deep V-necklines inset with graphic netting.
The accessories got everybody’s attention: the silly flat slippers lined in vibrant fur  were a runway-only joke. Simply beautiful was her new handbag, a soft pastel clutch rolled over on top like a paper bag.

Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

An invitation for the Kenzo-show was one of the hottest tickets of Paris Fashion Week. Funny how a brand can turn into something cool in just a wink. All kudos go to minds now operating behind Kenzo,  Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim. They have brought a whole new spirit. The duo has optimism and makes fashion fun for everyone.

The setting of the show was a psychedelic projection of color and print,  in front of which the models walked: in khaki safari suits and trench coats and dresses; in  bustier tops and trousers with exotic prints; in off-the-shoulder dresses with a thick utility belt around the waist; in mint biker jackets; in parka jackets; and in those tiger jumpers. This time the tiger came disguised amongst a graphic crowd of lines. There were camouflage leopard prints in yellow and blue, and it came in orange and green later.

Leon and Lim  managed to wipe the slate clean and turn this floundering brand around to be a jungle beast.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

It felt like a Best Of collection and..well.. it kind of was. In about twenty minutes Gaultier presented “An homage to all the pop stars of the eighties”. Artist who, the designer himself, has dressed at the top of their game. We had a blast looking at Grace Jones, Boy George, Madonna, Amanda Lear , Annie Lenox, David Bowie and Michael Jackson look-a-likes. Yet to say JPG exceeded himself with this XL collection would be a little exaggerative. It was a spectacle and an enumeration of what Gaultier does best. Striped suits, corsets, cone bras, overalls; all styled to the max, like usual at a JPG show. It sure looked like Jean Paul had a blast putting this highly entertaining show together. Let’s hope the designer keeps on dressing great artists like the ones represented today. We would love another Greatest Hits collection in about ten years from now.

 

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

On the same day as Viktor & Rolf showed their mirrored collection Junya Watanabe sent his models out on the runway with mirrored headgear. Yet the reflecting pieces were the only thing the two brands had in common. Cause could you ever really compare a label to Watanabe? The brand is so outspoken and unique it would be hard to copy that spirit.

Watanabe’s model looked like futuristic sportive sixties girls. Walking to the energetic club beats of the show’s soundtrack they sported leggings, mini dresses, cycling pants and thin water resistant jackets. Poppy colors gave the looks even more power, although a series of black designs at the end appeared just as strong.

Puma shoes with bright details completed Watanabe’s Space Age theme. At 09.30 a.m. the overwhelming show really kicked in. Full of energy we sprinted to our next show location. Unfortunately without the mirrored helmets.

 

 

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

Their invitation was a slight clue of their show theme. An old school picture of a model holding a mirror was a subtle indication Viktor & Rolf’s Spring / Summer 2013 collection presentation was going to be about old Hollywood glam and would be filled with mirrors. The backdrop was a large mirror, clothes were given all kinds of reflecting parts (roses and bows made out of mirrored plexi) and a drawn print of a classic hand mirror even appeared on some looks. Not to mention the large amount of metallic pieces, which fit in with the theme perfectly.

In between all the shimmer and shine Viktor and Rolf used a soft shaded color palette ranging from white to nude and salmon to coral. No Hollywood actrices, in the long and lean looks made out of different pleated and draped parts (sophisticated patchwork), the models had more of a dreamy goddess-y feeling. Goddesses in their upgraded wardrobes of course, which were given strong shoulders and playful details such as large bows, the names of the designers as mirrored prints and chunky necklaces.

Many looks still had a very high red carpet feeling, yet we can totally see some of those pants, tops and sportive sweaters being worn ‘on the streets’. Especially with metallics being everyone’s favorite trend to spice up their wardrobes, we can see this collection doing well next spring.

 

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

There are a few reasons to be at a show of Haider Ackermann: to experience his color sense, to see his layered silhouette and to feel the exciting vibe at his beautiful, almost poetic shows.  Again, the belted and peplumed layers returned again and a spoken-word rendition of the Billie Holiday song “The Man I Love” played its pulse and caused goose-pimples.

The colors were nowhere to be seen. Instead of the usual rich hues, Ackermann employed graphic, geometric prints and a stricter palette— black, white, and navy. The first surprise were the polka dots, which decorated a sheer, slipdress worn with  pants in a smaller dot pattern.  But he also mixed  a vertically striped fitted jacket with a draped blouse and full trousers in two different mosaic-tile motifs.
Collage is a big trend this season, but where other designers patchworked individual pieces, Ackermann used whole outfits as his canvas.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

On Friday evening a series of rags represented Yohji Yamamoto’s feeling of destroyed romance. In his collection, full of contradictions and mood swings, the designer showed a certain poetic spirit. His messy haired models walked the runway on flats, dressed in fringed maxi skirts, pants and dresses held together by the slightest pieces of fabrics. After black, khaki and red, it was black again in which veiled models represented some kind of widows. Followed by girls in asymmetrical jackets worn with colorful lurid sheer skirts, revealing their blue shaded panties.

Some eye-catching larger than life jewelery funked things up in the second half of the show. Necklaces that might work for a magazine’s editorial or catch the streetstyle photogs attention outside the shows. Yet not really the kind to hit the office in. The same goes for the clothes, although we can see something beautiful happening with the languid sheer tops and dresses that closed this slightly confusing Yamamoto collection.

 

Chalayan Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2013

We got quite a feeling of optimism through Chalayan’s spring/summer show. He presented a very light collection of clean, boxy designs. Models sported boxy blouses, dresses and jackets worn with small pants or bare legs to keep them slightly feminine. If Chalayan accentuated the waist, some other part of his creation had to be structured, so playful skirts were mixed with puffy tops. Combined with bright green, yellow, orange and blue all the white felt even more fresh. Used on mesh fabrics and jersey inspired materials looks got a sportive touch as well.

Never one to leave out the headgear Chalayan came up with some extraordinary pieces again. His signature floppy hats were given a sun cap and turned into true summer proof statement pieces. A selection of colourful printed  designs (a print that featured piles of Chalayan’s own clothes) and two black and white evening dresses closed the show. Yes, there were some quirky twists, but the designer perfectly managed to bring them all together in a crispy selection of pretty wearable designs.

 

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