Prada Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

No doubt Miuccia Prada is into golf. Her new ss2012 menswear-collection screamed golf from head to toe. From the oversized caps to the shoes and colorful bags with clubs. She must have been on the green lately and asked herself why those golfers looked so geeky and dressed so bored. And she decided to draw a totally new world. Literary. The setting of the Prada show was unreal, as in colors and prints that were to bright, outfits that looked out of this world, too green fake grass and kitchy, shiny clubs.

But you’ll never know with Prada. The collection was a strange, casual mix of vintage-looking golfwear, rhinestone western-jackets, Sixties-inspired flowerprints and Fifties-inspired comics of jazz-musicians. Black, blue and gray played with faded yellow, blue and taupe. The silhouette was slender, with straight pants topped with double breasted jackets, a pullover, a polo or a short jacket. Scarves tied in the neck instead of ties. It all reminded me of the cliche-image people have of American men in the fifties. You’re shocked at first view, but at second sight you admire them for their courage. It’ll make the world a lot more brighter.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Oh boys, you’re in for a treat! The new Salvatore Ferragamo collection is going to make your day. Silhouette-wise, that is. As in some of the other brands new summer collections Ferragamo too opted for nonchalant elegance.

The pants were loose; the jackets appeared comfortable and some of the knitwear looked cosy. Jackets either were double breasted or had double pockets and were worn with a band tied around the waist.

It felt great for spring/summer; the colors (white, olive green, beige, sand, black). Finished off with some cool sun hats, peeptoe (!!) shoes, shoulder bags and sunglasses we couldn’t think of any reason not to wanna wear Ferragamo next year.

Our pictures will follow shortly.

 

 

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Oh, how I wish every man would dress like Tomas Maier of Bottega Veneta uses to dress his men. How tough, sensitive and beautiful they would look in one outfit. The Bottega Veneta ss2012-collection proved it again. Impeccable suits in decent colors and patterns, soft and tough leather pants and jackets, workwear de luxe in denim and leather and intelligent mixes of prints, knitwear and fabrics. It seemed a fine mix of the inventive and the innovative without screaming or being to eccentric.

The sheer quality of the materials put the collection into a high register and the essential alost invisible codes of the house were all there, especially in the soft bags folded under the arm like giant envelopes. Even the use of ‘shocking’ colors, as in turquoise or green suits, the result was still classy.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

It was the first time Roberto Cavalli’s son Daniele Cavalli had some influence on the menswear-collection. His father asked him to add some youthful juice to the line. He presented an almost clean collection, where blue-tones and white played a central role plus some bold colors. The show was a romantic take on Riviera summers with influences from all over the world. Instead of playboys in flirty clothes came men dressed smart casual in natty blazers, suits in vivid fuchsia, yellow or purple/blue, and jackets with inserts of python.It seemed the young designer wanted to do a very good job, not too cool and hip.

And somehow it worked out fine, to be honest: it was better than all the rock ‘ roll, Jim Morrison meets Mick Jagger inspired Cavalli-collections we’ve seen in the past seasons. Although it lacked a bit of irony.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Shorts, that’s exactly men need in steamy hot Milan right now. Eehm, in black? Well, why not. Since everybody visting Milan is wearing the bold colors of this summer why not try them in black? Raf Simons started the colorblocking trend at Jil Sander, so he’ll be the first to end it. Or to offer something completely different. And that’s what he did this afternoon with his Jil Sander ss2012 collection.

To be honest, all that black soothes the eye. And Simons didn’t give up on color yet, he just added fragments or fragmented colors to the black. In cotton knits, printed stiff T-shirts, the petrol-colored jackets and with the snake-skin pouches attached as a small life-vest to the models’ body. It seemed leather accessories were a big, loud message too.

Although all the black was a surprise,  the collection didn’t have the impact his eye-popping colors had a year ago. Look around you and see what it did to the streets. And the big wave still has to come. Let’s take it positive: black matches beautifully with bright orange, yellow and pink. Black is still the new black, but differently.

Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

It has been a while since Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey presented such a strong collection. Less commercial and predictable, more sensitive and daring regarding the fabrics, ethnic theme, colors and prints. Of course it had this typical British/Bailey  details like the small pant with straight, narrow legs, the fitted jackets, pimped up brogues, the old fashioned cardigans and of course a large variety of coats. Those coats where the main part of the collection, but the accents made the difference: the collars in multi-colored patterns or fluffy fur. Funny and delightful were the (golf)shoes with thick cork-soles and bright colorful details, the knitted sweaters, the shirts and pants in African inspired patterns (the ones Mandela likes) or ikats and the colors which moved between navy-blue to mustard, yellow, burnt orange and beige.

It sure will let the sun come out on a rainy day.

Watch the show here

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