Narciso Rodriguez Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Narciso Rodriguez did minimalism way before the young American designers discovered it, the ones who showed their simple collections this week in New York. Rodriguez knows how to make a simple, pretty and easy dress – it made him famous.

The designer went back to his heydays in the nineties, looked at old pictures of celebs wearing his dresses and decided to leave out all the noise again and focus at strong tailoring and simple tea-dresses. Collarless coats were thrown over silk tank dresses, dresses were cut on the bias and colors were dark and blushy.

You see, minimalism can be very romantic and feminine too,

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

The audience went bananas after the finale of the Rodarte ss2011-show. Again the sisters Mulleavy delivered a piece of artwork and handcrafted creations. Although this collection was inspired by nature too (wood, paper, reptile-skin, stone) it felt totally different than before, less magical. Maybe it were the stiff fabrics,or the  items that looked as if they were made of shifting plates ore maybe the dresses made of blue and white patterns that sometimes looked like china, delfware or wallpaper. Gone are the good witches, it’s hello to the goddesses.

It certainly was a step forward, since their signature handcrafted macrame-dresses were copied a lot lately. And the clear lines and layers definitely added a modern, contemporary touch to their style. Somehow the use of the colors – brown, copper, gold, gray, white and blue – and the wood-patterns made me think retro-American architecture and interiors. But the best part was the wearability, these are actually clothes women can wear. Well, some women.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Jason Wu presented a strong collection focused at tailoring. He opened the show with a sleeveless top-with-bow and a pair of high-waisted pants. Smartly cut lean trousers appeared in several different colors and were paired with ladylike blouses or neat striped knits. Jackets, too, were elongated.  His evening-wear was colorful and had lots of sex-appeal. His lady like woman likes to play it loud in the evening!

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

You can leave it to Donna Karan to make a theme like ‘Raw Romance’ into a beautiful, strong collection in just one color (sand) and a contrasting mix of crumpled jackets and sensual dresses and skirts.

This time, Karan left masculine influences behind and just focused at femininity. Even de crinkles looked sensual, and they sometimes reminded of old Issey Miyake-collections. The silhouette was long and lean. Filmy dresses and skirts cut on the bias added a delicate sensuality, fabrics were airy and seductive without being to obvious.

And in all its simplicity it was more personal and emotional than all the other minimalistic collections we saw in New York so far.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2011 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Malandrino Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

It rained before and after the presentation of catherine Malandrno’s collection, outside the Lincoln center. The models shivered on their platforms, but at least they were dry. Malandrino’s Spring collection was an exercise in handcrafts: leather macrame, patchwork, stitched beads and lots of drapery.

Diane von Fürstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Frenchman Yvan Mispelaere is the new right hand of Diane von Fürstenberg. He brings along the experience he’s got working at Gucci, Chloe (when Phoebe Philo was in charge) and Louis Feraud. For his first DvF-collection he got inspiration from an Isadora Duncan retrospective  in Paris and he dubbed it Goddess.

But the collection was not about Grecian draping, the theme referred to empowered, intellectual beauty. The dominant look was clean, crispy sportswear in major graphic prints and bold, subtle colors (mint, melon, sky-blue, peach, purple)): light weight silk separates – fluidly tailored shorts, shirts and jackets – and the houses signature dresses. Hooded jumpsuits and flowing caftans added a hint of summer. And yes, there was some draping and even a golden Goddess-dress, but van Mispelaere knew were to stop.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Derek Lam’s collection was roughly based on a review about an exhibition focused on Sixties Californian Minimalism. It was casual and light in a Californian way, had seventies-influences (the high, wide trousers, the trench, the denim, the calf-long skirts) and looked very minimal. No frills, no ornaments, a clean silhouette, just blue denim, black and white.

Last season Lam looked to the American West for his collection of urban sportswear. For spring he went to California. In a way his collection looked still sporty, but more soft, refined and pure. Highlights were the A-line suede skirts, poplin blouses, canvas trenchcoats,, high waisted denim pants and thin cashmere sweaters.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear ss2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

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