Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

First the celebs had to arrive and set themselves before the Dolce & Gabbana show could start. Luckily Kylie Minogue was on time this time, followed by Naomi Campbell and Jada Pinket-Smith with her daugther Willow. During the intro with Cavaleria Rusticana old campaign-images flashed starring Madonna, Dutch model Marpessa Henning and Monica Belluci plus the words bianco, sartoria, siciliana. It set the tone of the collection, which had all the Dolce & Gabbana ingredients.

It was a good show in terms of models, music, pace and atmosphere. But the set up seemed repetitive with collections shown before, not only the theme but also with a parade of models dressed alike at the finale and the clothes. There was no color at all, besides a few flowerprints in blue and green.  Black, white and the leopardprint played a leading role, as did lace, broderie anglaise, cotton and boudoir-like items as babydolls and bloomers. Tube-dresses were followed by skirt-suits, long dresses, mini-dresses and tunics. It was a sweet collection from a commercial point of view, but I hope the designerduo will continue to use their main line as their playing garden and come up with some fresh and intriguing.  One line with a different worked out concept every season- D&G – is enough.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Marni mixed athletic wear with her typical contemporary style into a streamlined, colorful collection with slim sportpants, collarless jackets and mini-dresses as the centerpieces of the collection. Short dustcoats in leather were perforated, minidresses were made of macrame-lace or embellished with embroidered 3D applications. Nearly every outfit was a mix of layers. The silhouet was slim but structured. Colors moved from blue, white and green to pink, orange and yellow.

Colorblocking, contrasting stripes in black, diagonally striped motifs and psychedelic flowerprints added an upbeat touch to the collection. The stiff techno fabrics for mini-dresses and cropped pants sometimes reminded of the Sixties space-style, while the long dresses in hallucinating prints reminded of the Seventies.

This was not one of Marni’ best collections, maybe because she suggested too much. But sport is defenitely back in fashion.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Wow, that was a real good Jil Sander-show. The way Raf Simons treats colors, the new minimalism but also the need for strong elegance proofs he is a true craftsman and creative, daring designer. Yes, the silhouette was exaggerated, yes the colors sometimes hurt the eyes and yes the skirts were maybe too long – but fashion can take a whole new direction with his ideas.

Simons focused at shape, volume, proportion and new materials and used couture as his vehicle. Skirts were long and sack shaped, trousers ultra-wide and some tops had a contrasting frill. This sounds very old fashioned haute couture – especially because it reminded of the old YSL and Givenchy – but Simons added a modern touch by mixing it with plain white T-shirts or a tank-top. Jackets had contrasting front edges, the long skirts seemed classic but had sensual high splits and the simple dresses with vertical stripes (in white and navy) looked modern and right on.

Besides shape, color was his most important message; so don’t be afraid of neon yellow, day glo orange, shocking pink, purple, green, electric blue or the exaggerated floral prints.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

According to the pressrelease the collection of Emporio Armani was concentrated around ten elements: glamour, geometric deco, lightness, sheath, daywear, sleekness, shades , shape, form and fancy. Well, it briefly told what the collection was about: different layers of different shapes created new (sleek) forms, stretch see through tubes and leggings tamed the short dresses and skirts, minreal shades got company of green, black and watermelon red.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Somehow the summerseason is never the strongest at Max Mara. Winter means coats and they’re good at that. So the trenchcoats and suits were the best of the spring summer collection plus the long dresses in solid colors like red, purple and yellow.

Color was an important theme of the collection besides minimalism. The team at Max Mara tried to translate the big trend of next summer into a special look, but somehow the short flared pants looked a bit outdated and too tight for now and the use of some hairy fabric did not quite succeed. And even the translation of a minimal style was not totally convincing. Although the striped jackets and dresses and nude-colored shirts and shorts were a good shot.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Just like his menswearcollection for ss2010 Tomas Maier tried to mix formal and casual wear into ultra-comfortable womenswear without losing the feminine touch. So flowing dresses got structure thanks to leather inserts, tankstops were attached to wide skirts decorated with studs, dresses were long, wide and fluid and suits looked as if they came straight out of the water.

The silhouette was close to the body but never tight, sometimes (crocodile) leather contrasted with the  silk and jerseys that had a wetlook.  It was the fluidity of the fabrics that gave the collection it’s sensual touch. Colors were rather modest compared to the vivid pinks and yellows we spotted in other collections. Bottlegreen, gray, black, white, babyblue and taupe were the key-colors. The flat sandals and slippers accentuated  the casual theme.

Thank you Tess!

Time for a second shift. We said goodbye to Tess yesterday, and I will keep you posted from now on. It’s going to be a busy week-end in Milan with shows of Jil Sander, Dolce & gabbana, Bottega Veneta, Armani and Marni.

Thank you Tess, you did a great job!

Temporary Team-member

Meet Marc van Fucht, our temporary Team-member. Marc , who’s a well respected documentary-maker, is joining the Team this week-end in Milan. He is doing research and will make some short video’s for the Team Peter Stigter  blog.

Streetfashion Milan Womenswear SS2011 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Fashion Week.

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