Prada’s moviescene
The setting of the Prada-menswearshow looked like a large Alice in Wonderland box with shiny walls and shiny black & white floor. The quotes that dressed the set came from old black and white movies that highlighted the discussed masculinity. The effect was dazzling and somehow disturbing.
Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Transparency was the keyword of Calvin Klein’s menswearcollection, designed by Italo Zucchelli. It’s a trend we saw with more labels. Zucchelli pushed the idea into another, futuristic world. Using America’s archetypal sportswear he shows a vision of the way men might ideally dress in a parallel universe. Seethrough fabrics, mesh cardigans and jackets, transparent parka’s and shiny surfaces in silver grey, black and stone. Plus a serie in orange and turquoise, because color is the new black.
Etro Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The collection of Etro was one big, happy, shiny colorfestival. Suits, shirts, T-shirts and accessories in every color you can imagine. Prints were inspired by dazzling mandala’s, but influences also appeared on large buttons, details at shoes, bags and pockets.
Moschino Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The look of Moschino’s collection reminded us of that good old Fifties-style, with nerdy specs, hats, sleek suits and leather jackets from the early days of rock ‘n roll. Moschino used their famous newsprint on shirts and inkspots as a splotchy pattern on a blouson, trench and jeans. The collection had a sense of humor and made us wish men would dress like this more often.
Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The collection of Roberto Cavalli didn’t send out a clear message. Skinny, perforated leather pants, shirts without sleeves, jackets, leopard prints and pastelshades. It reminded us of heavymetal bands and rockstars.
Versace Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The new Versace-menswearcollection screamed lightness and luxe. Designer Alexandre Plokhov mixed elements of army-uniforms with a more exotic style. Result: a striped navy-jacket over a djeballa, an officer’s shirt – without sleeves – in a gauzy silk cheesecloth, or a parka in translucent cotton. Exotic too were the python and tortoiseshell-prints and jewelry that looked like it came from a Tuareg market.
Neil Barrett Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
Neil Barrett named his collection ‘Artisan Bonding’. Hmm. It didn’t ring a bell immediately, but it probably referred to the leathers and jersey knits which were bonded together to create seamless pieces. The collection itself echoed the Indian military with elongated jackets and ‘Bombay-pants, Barretts love of formal men’s dressing gave it a more elegant touch and this avoided a more gimmicky look.
Models on tour
Are modelagency’s cutting costs for transport? Male models working in Milan during this fashionweek take their skateboard to move from one show to another. Peter Stigter spotted them outside Bottega Veneta. Maybe it’s just the easiest way in a city where public transport it not at its best.
Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
The Missoni-man is ‘a nomadic romantic’, said the shownotes – but on the catwalk walked a more humble man who was trying too hard to be that guy. The clothes looked like they were patched together from faded old bits and pieces. Chambray and denim were a simple, effective counterpoint to Missoni’s signature jaquards. Designer Angela Missoni used tone-in-tone weaves instead of different colors.
CP Company catwalk Fashion Show ss2010
It was the first collection for CP of ex-Galliano menswear designer Wallace Faulds, so expectations were high. Spandau Ballet was on the soundtrack and the place was packed, but in the end the collection was plain and straightforward. Basically it was all about a white tee and indigo jeans, full tops over tapered pants with rolled cuffs. The simplicity and uniformity felt modern, but we missed that extra spark.
