Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Since Giorgio Armani told WWD in an interview he suffered from hepatitis, you look different at the 75 year old designer. We’d better enjoy his skills as one of the greatest fashion designers of the last 30 years now we can than keep on complaining about his long shows and sometimes awkward collections. His heritage was and is still amazing. His talent as a designer was visible in the collection he showed today full of pretty young things in short, swirly skirts, short tailored jackets and dresses. It started with black, grey and neutrals but exploded in bright colors at the end. I immediately fell in love with the heels and bags.

Spijkers & Spijkers Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Luckily there are still some Dutch designers showing their collection in Milan. After a few seasons in London twinsisters Spijkers & Spijkers decided to take their collection to Milan, also because they found a good agency. Jazz and cocktails brought the public (most Dutch press and even the Dutch ambassador)  in a good mood. The collection focused at loose-fitting dresses in their signature graphic patchwork.   Short skirts and trousers were loose and draped around the thighs, pantsuits were slim and boyisch. Stars seemed the main print, as they appeared in a starry-fotoprint and in the patchwork where the twins played with different colors and stripes. Simply beautiful were the black dresses with unfolded seams and stars.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

‘Romance’ is the first word that comes to mind when you see the ss2010 collection of Roberto Cavalli. Airy dresses with flower-patterns came down the runway and were often mixed with blouses and menswear.  Due to this layering the collection lacked a real summer-feeling.  Almost every top or jacket had long sleeves. Pants were often too long to see what kind of shoes were worn.  All models had a small scarf tightly wrapped around their neck and long braids. Sometimes it felt like the countryside. Every model carried her own small handbag, subtly squeezed between her arms and waist. At the end the clothes felt a little bit  like summer when white dresses and more skin were shown. With calm colors like grey, dark blue and beige and little nudity this collection of Roberto and Eva Cavalli looked very honest and sophisticated. (Tess van Daelen)

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Tomas Maier chose white as his main color for the ss2010-collection. Only some details came in yellow, brown, purple, blue or green. The models wore kimono-looking canvas tops and playful strapless dresses. Some showed loose fitting pants with corsets, jackets and draped one-shoulder items. Dresses with ruches and a ribbon around the waist looked elegant. The collection looked very easy to wear as the silouet was never tight fitted. Every look was finished off by a small white headband. The models walked in shoes with laces above the ankle or sandals. Every now and then they carried the famous Bottega Veneta bags from woven leather, in different shades. At the end of the show the white dresses, headbands and  big bags were replaced by colorful evening gowns and small clutches. (Tess van Daelen)

Milan Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #9

Versace Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

For her SS2010 collection Donatella Versace told everyone she was inspired by the idea of a fantasyland. This inspiration was visualized by the use of bright pastels, many different prints and plastic see-through materials, which all gave a barbiedoll-feeling to it. A lot of dresses and skirts were shown, sometimes combined with a jacket. There were also some very slim pants, looking more like leggings. Because of the different geometric patterns some of the dresses seemed to be a combination of a skirt and a top, stitched together. The legs of the models looked endless on the runway due to the fact that the girls wore platform shoes and ultra-short skirts and dresses. There was also a lot of leg shown wearing the evening gowns with a very high slit and silver metallic accents. Altogether Donatella Versace showed off a vivid, youthfull, sexy and indeed fantasy-like collection. (Tess van Daelen)

Gianfranco Ferre Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Roberto Rimondi and Tommaso Aquilano only used four different shades to design their SS2010 collection, their third for Gianfranco Ferré. Their short party-dresses and feminine tuxedo-looking suits were all shown in white, ivory, gold or black. By using only these colors the designers lived up to Ferré’s idea that the color of a design is inferior to its shape. A great deal of the dresses were one-shoulder-pieces which had a round shape from the waist down and were worn above the knee. They were made out of transparent wavy fabrics and therefore showed some resemblence to the crimped hair of the models. In some of the designs shoulder pads were used. Most of the looks were finished off with very thin metallic belts, big bracelets and partly open shoes with high metal stiletto heels. The fashion show ended with some theatrical dresses on which transparant veils were attached.(Tess van Daelen)

Milan Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #8

Milan Fashion Week ss2010 Impressions #7

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show ss2010

Raf Simons went back to nature, in an intellectual way – of course. His ss2010 collection for Jil Sander  took on a rough-hewn edge—dresses in which layers of fabric were peeled back and left hanging in patches; linen and gauze tailoring patched together in sheer and opaque zones; and knitwear manipulated into complex conceptual surface patterns to conceal and reveal skin in unexpected ways. White and navy were the main colors, with some showstoppers in shiny green and blue.

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