Martin Margiela Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

With their hair blown fully in their face Margiela models strutted the catwalk in some unconventional long and lean looks. One dresses was made without straps, so the model herself hat to hold it up. Others were held together by Velcro and countless zippers. There were girls walking around with the plastic clothing bag over their outfit. And nude colored tops made it look as if the models were really naked underneath their black jackets.

Yet as bizarre as it all looked on the runway, there were some good ideas their. Those maxi leather skirts might just become a hit and short sleeved tuxedo dress could be kinda cool as well. If only things were brought to a more normal proportion this collection would be an instant hit.

Yohji Yamamoto Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Our review will follow shortly

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You need a genius designer like Alber Elbaz to transform the cut of a jogging suit into a powerful chic womenswear-collection. And so he did for Lanvin ss2012. On the runway appeared T-shirts, pencil skirts and loose shirtdresses,  stripped-down but powerful chic. Elbaz adopted the idea of comfy separates and sportiness for this collection. And how! Track pants ( with side stripes), were anything but casual with sexy slits. A white T-shirt had special, structured sleeves. And the stretch scuba material typical of athletic wear was transformed into tight skirts.

There was a definite Eighties vibe to this glamorous streetwear, not in the least because of the mega jewels — crystal crosses and gold chokers.  Some suits were done in green and black snake prints, which, in combination with the soft pleated dresses held with safety pins, reminded of  vintage Versace.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The house of Christian Dior is still in transition. And while they are in this vacuum, the only thing the design-team can do is designing commercial stuff. The loyal customer still wants to buy new clothes, no?

Bill Gaytten showed a new, subtle version of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined silhouette. The collection never went to the extremes. The jacket was worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy fabrics. It looked pretty and feminine in pale colors as well as a few shots of red. The color was a light contrast to the graphic black-and-white check motif and geometric embroideries on shirts and dresses. For evening, it was a steady stream of filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace.

Hussein Chalayan Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

The Chalayan show started with a big act, of which we didn’t really get the purpose. A part Chalayan might just as well have skipped but luckily the clothes made it all worthwhile. The designs were minimalistic, yet there was more than enough to look at.

Like straight cut oversize blazers, long lean dresses, reflective disco shorts and printed tunics. Mostly done in plain shades of black, white, grey, lemon, apricot and some nature-inspired (Turkish and English floral) prints.

Looks felt modern and wearable. The porthole cut-outs, planes and hoodies made it a true Chalayan collection and gave the clothes an original, crazy touch.

A.F. Vandevorst Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kenya was the big inspiration for A.F. Vandevorst’s spring collection. The designers felt inspired by special African tribes to design unconventional clothes with even crazier accessories and hat pieces.

Their asymmetric looks were layered, fringed, tassled and embroidered to make sure they kept our attention. Military references were placed chests and shoulders.

A color palette of black, deep blue, red and camel didn’t feel very spring like, but the beautiful earthy toned paisley prints sure made up for that.

Headbands and extravagant Mohawk headpieces gave the collection even more character.

Welcome to Vandevorst’s warrior jungle!

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

It was a sweet collection that Marco Zanini presented on the first day of Paris Fashion Week and which he described as ‘a journey through the vortex of cinema’.

His models had turned into elegant, chic women in fifties-inspired, pastelcolored (mint green, peony pink, ivory, lemon, kiwi, orange, blue) designs. Their outfits looked delicate, luxurious and original, made out of couture-like materials and new even some newly developed fabrics. All designs had their very own ‘sparkle’, whether it came from the shiny silk organza or the hand embroidered details.

A long shiny skirt with a grey knitted T-shirt appeared to be one of the youngest, most wearable looks. Shiny, almost see-through jackets looked exquisite combined with over the knee pencil skirts. And those bathing suits just breathed old skool glamour.

The styling made the show picture perfect with cat-eye glasses, organza kerchiefs covering big hair (fifties-style) and shoes varying from sky-high mules to soft suede sandals. This is how you do classy.

Roberto Cavalli Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

Going from the Giorgio Armani show to that of Roberto Cavalli is quite a change. From sober to over the top, from sophisticated to sexy. And we don’t mean that in a bad way. Cavalli was overwhelming as ever, presenting lots of color, gold, embroideries and – of course – animal prints.

Cavalli too, dropped his waist. He even accentuated the models hips by thick leather belts.

It was a super feminine collection even though lots of masculine influences could be seen. Like the sharp looking suits, the tough embossed leather jackets and the suit jackets (with black strips) worn with long evening gowns.

A nice mix of styles for the Cavalli woman who doesn’t want to loose any of her sex appeal by wearing what’s in fashion right now. For next spring she mustn’t worry; the sexiness was everywhere (the colors, the prints, the shiny element and the silhouette), you can leave that up to Roberto.

Salvatore Ferragamo Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

After seasons with neutrals, nudes and black and white today Massimiliano Giornetti brought in the bright colors. He showed a vivid collection full of super feminine looks; silk pants with blouses, jumpsuit and lots of sexy, sophisticated dresses and shiny evening gowns with high slits and big bows.

Most of the designs had gorgeous exotic prints (a mix of leaves and animal prints) on them in great summery shades. Blue, purple, red, pink, turquoise were beautifully mixed and matched throughout the show. The colorblock looks felt a little like last season (the popular Gucci and Fendi collections) though.

But no matter how renewing this collection was; there were more than enough great looks to pull from it for any kind of festivity. The clothes felt luxurious and together with the great accessories (cool clutches and sexy shoes) Salvatore Ferragamo is known for,  they resulted in some amazing summer looks.

 

 

Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

There’s no denying Missoni’s popularity. The immediate sell out of the Missoni x Target collection sure proved that. But as wearable and recognizable that more affordable line was, as unexpected was today’s spring collection.

Here too, models looked like gypsy women parading on the runway in colorful, layered designs with lots of jewelry. Tops and dresses were mostly off shoulder and the layered bottoms often had extravagant ruffles on them.

Fringes and sheer mesh pieces made it hard to picture everyday women in these outfits. And even though the color palette (purple, blue, yellow, chocolate, pink) was quite lovely, the asymmetric looks didn’t translate very well. There was just too much going on.

Perhaps Angela Missoni got carried away by the big success of the past few months. At least she felt good about the collection, made for the “happy girl, full of life”.

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