Marc by Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Today Marc Jacobs’ models had the same frizzy hairdo as in his other show yesterday. Yet apart from the hair there was a whole different vibe going on. The spring/summer collection had everything in it the Marc by Marc Jacobs brand is famous for: flirty, playful, bright, young, wearable clothes and accessories.

Marc Jacobs chose orange and bright (almost neon) yellow as his main colors. He used those in his jumpsuits, summer dresses and skirts. Even the thick bangles and streetwise bags came in those eye-catching shades. Not to mention the models’ orange-colored lips.

The silhouette was feminine and playful at the same time. In most designs the waist was accentuated, the skirts and dresses came by in a flared version and the pants ended above the models’ ankles.

Remarkable were some ultra-short, yet high-waisted shorts and classic bathing suits. Less impressive were several shirt dresses and some navy-inspired red & white striped Tees. Also we must say the helmet hats most models wore on their heads looked kinda awkward.

For men Marc Jacobs came up with long (trench)coats, sweaters and shirts. The legs and sleeves of most pants and jackets seemed too short (7/8), but judging from the female looks this will be the style for next spring.

The male models wore their looks very careless; loose tie, standing shirt collar, tucked up sleeves and sneakers. Very cool & funky indeed!

All looks were perfectly balanced and had the right feeling, color and fit for the slightly younger audience Marc Jacobs aims at with this line. Their might have been an overkill on the stripes, but overall we liked what we saw.

Rodarte Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

The audience went bananas after the finale of the Rodarte ss2011-show. Again the sisters Mulleavy delivered a piece of artwork and handcrafted creations. Although this collection was inspired by nature too (wood, paper, reptile-skin, stone) it felt totally different than before, less magical. Maybe it were the stiff fabrics,or the  items that looked as if they were made of shifting plates ore maybe the dresses made of blue and white patterns that sometimes looked like china, delfware or wallpaper. Gone are the good witches, it’s hello to the goddesses.

It certainly was a step forward, since their signature handcrafted macrame-dresses were copied a lot lately. And the clear lines and layers definitely added a modern, contemporary touch to their style. Somehow the use of the colors – brown, copper, gold, gray, white and blue – and the wood-patterns made me think retro-American architecture and interiors. But the best part was the wearability, these are actually clothes women can wear. Well, some women.

Jason Wu Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Jason Wu presented a strong collection focused at tailoring. He opened the show with a sleeveless top-with-bow and a pair of high-waisted pants. Smartly cut lean trousers appeared in several different colors and were paired with ladylike blouses or neat striped knits. Jackets, too, were elongated.  His evening-wear was colorful and had lots of sex-appeal. His lady like woman likes to play it loud in the evening!

Donna Karan Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

You can leave it to Donna Karan to make a theme like ‘Raw Romance’ into a beautiful, strong collection in just one color (sand) and a contrasting mix of crumpled jackets and sensual dresses and skirts.

This time, Karan left masculine influences behind and just focused at femininity. Even de crinkles looked sensual, and they sometimes reminded of old Issey Miyake-collections. The silhouette was long and lean. Filmy dresses and skirts cut on the bias added a delicate sensuality, fabrics were airy and seductive without being to obvious.

And in all its simplicity it was more personal and emotional than all the other minimalistic collections we saw in New York so far.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear SS2011 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

Marc Jacobs Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Marc Jacobs’ fashion shows have changed a lot in the last few years. They used to start 3 hours late and Monday night it appeared Marc and his crew was too early. Half an hour before the show his team Tweeted ‘Marc’s ready now. Were waiting for editors.’ Eventually the show started exactly one time, which led to Courtney Love watching only the tail end of the show.

With Vivaldi’s ‘Summer’ coming from the speakers Marc’s first models entered the catwalk. After only one look we could tell what Marc’s inspiration was. His seventies-theme was visible in every little detail.

There were easy breezy dresses, blouses and jumpsuits all, of course, in the right seventies shades (burgundy, amber, coral pink, Byzantine, bright maroon). The busy prints from that era were present too, as well as the flared pants, which we saw on a jumpsuit and a metallic pair of pants. The shorts were tiny and the slits were high. Lots of fabrics were sheer ones and the pants were high waisted.

The make-up was perfect for the show. The models had bleached eyebrows, shiny eyelids (from lots of Vaseline) and matte, stained lips. Their hair was all frizzy and often decorated by an enormous flower.

Those flowers (which were actually lily’s) popped up everywhere in the show. Around the models’ necks and waists and on the collars of their clothes. Large hats, round sunglasses en small bags and clutches completed the looks.

Marc Jacobs brought back the seventies! And he did so in a very cool and modern way. So just like the curvy collection he designed for Louis Vuitton last season this one is bound the set the trend for a whole new fashion season. (And we’re so excited!)

Ps. It was rumoured that the show area is also the backdrop of the spring/summer campaign. Marc Jacobs might have show the campaign in tandem with the show.

Malandrino Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

It rained before and after the presentation of catherine Malandrno’s collection, outside the Lincoln center. The models shivered on their platforms, but at least they were dry. Malandrino’s Spring collection was an exercise in handcrafts: leather macrame, patchwork, stitched beads and lots of drapery.

Diane von Fürstenberg Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Frenchman Yvan Mispelaere is the new right hand of Diane von Fürstenberg. He brings along the experience he’s got working at Gucci, Chloe (when Phoebe Philo was in charge) and Louis Feraud. For his first DvF-collection he got inspiration from an Isadora Duncan retrospective  in Paris and he dubbed it Goddess.

But the collection was not about Grecian draping, the theme referred to empowered, intellectual beauty. The dominant look was clean, crispy sportswear in major graphic prints and bold, subtle colors (mint, melon, sky-blue, peach, purple)): light weight silk separates – fluidly tailored shorts, shirts and jackets – and the houses signature dresses. Hooded jumpsuits and flowing caftans added a hint of summer. And yes, there was some draping and even a golden Goddess-dress, but van Mispelaere knew were to stop.

Derek Lam Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

Derek Lam’s collection was roughly based on a review about an exhibition focused on Sixties Californian Minimalism. It was casual and light in a Californian way, had seventies-influences (the high, wide trousers, the trench, the denim, the calf-long skirts) and looked very minimal. No frills, no ornaments, a clean silhouette, just blue denim, black and white.

Last season Lam looked to the American West for his collection of urban sportswear. For spring he went to California. In a way his collection looked still sporty, but more soft, refined and pure. Highlights were the A-line suede skirts, poplin blouses, canvas trenchcoats,, high waisted denim pants and thin cashmere sweaters.

Streetfashion New York Womenswear ss2011 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Louboutin-heels, your latest Dries van Noten-jacket or that vintage Prada? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: New York Fashion Week.

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