Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Expectations were high, now Kim Jones has taken over at Louis Vuitton menswear. But until now the shift didn’t bring any news. Where Paul Helbers tried to bring something new, edgy and different into the collection, Jones brought his vision on classics with a twist. But we’ve seen that before. The result was handsome, sure-handed and vivid, but also played safe. A bit seventies and sixties, Ivy League and preppy sportswear and that meant crisp college looks, ranger and safari clothes, massai checks and midnight blue dinner suits. For the hyper luxury clientele Kim Jones offers varsity jackets fronted with waxed alligator, and neckties shot with 24-karat gold thread.

But the bags were the message. And the shoes… well the shoes. Let’s not spend a word on those.

 

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

If I were a monk, I would want to wear the dresses Rick Owens designs for men. For example those long, strict, minimal dresses he presented today in Paris. Again Rick Owens stayed faithful to  his monastic aesthetic. His urban monks were dressed in linen-blend skirts and even sleeveless gowns. Although it seems it’s only for  his  cult followers. What was left for people with a daily job, were the jackets, either cut short in washed cottons, their buttoned cuffs splaying open, or elongated and aerodynamic.

Viktor & Rolf Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

That was surely a sexy, sensual man Viktor & Rolf presented this morning in Paris. Their ss2012-collection reminded a bit of Richard Gere in an America Gigolo and John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever. Those references were not in the clothes but in the atmosphere and the sultry yet soft attitude that surrounded them.

Viktor & Rolf went explored the vibrant mid -70’s and found inspiration in the liberation and happiness that added a relaxed and fresh attitude to the sartorial and eccentric Monsieur dresser.

“This Spring/Summer 2012 Monsieur reflects a new age mood”, the Dutch designers explained.  ” He remains the same creative man – the sexy intellect – whose wardrobe is an authentic mix of formal and informal.  Our Monsieur is on a mystical and spiritual journey and is attracted to magical symbols and serene shades.  He’s investigating boundaries, but within his own world.”

The carefree effortlessness was reflected in lean silhouettes, playful patterns and unexpected mix of modern materials such as cupro or nylon-twill contrasting fine suede or delicate knits creating a vintage appearance. The colour palette was a playful mélange of shades of ivory, khaki, mustard yellow, and terracotta induced by radiant blue. The Dolphin, one of the classic symbols of the New age wave is a recurring pattern in the collection and applied in various treatments such as suiting interiors in jacquard, as tailored panelling, as prints for shirting, jerseys and sweats.

Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

For his Mugler ss2012-collection Nicola Formichetti was inspired by a lot of stuff:  the storytellers of Italian cinema, Fellini and Pasolini; Japanese comics;  Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber; sport; Greek mythology. So Greek gods, muscled boys, and tattooed punks all appeared on the runway often spattered in glitter.

Despite all the show, the collection does have salable items: stonewashed skinny jeans, pleated shorts, T-shirts, swimwear. There was also a huge role for the color green, in the clothes as in the lightning – which represented the blood of the digital era, according to Formichetti.  This sounds really like Thierry Mugler.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2012 Day 4

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Milan Menswear SS2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Prada-shoes, your latest Jil Sander-suit or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Milan Menswear Fashion Week.

 

 

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

You need a true British designer to add some rock ‘n roll to the Milan menswear Fashion Week. After days of decent suits, sportswear and pale colors, the Alexander McQueen-collection brought wit, romance and the expressionism of Mick Jagger and David Bowie to the catwalk, although it lacked a bit of McQueens’ own provocative and edgy elements. There were Savile Row jackets in bold black & white checks or peacock shades, as well as the loose trousers in candy red & white stripes or hammered satin. Burton also presented  varsity-style jackets in leather and suede, a flame-print evening jacket and a white coat with bold red spray-effect bands.

Pringle of Scotland Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

The Pringle ss2012 collection was the debut of designer Alistair Carr. He took the British label  took into sportier territory. He fragmented the argyle weave for sweater vests, mixed paper-thin leather and knitwear for jackets and shorts, and made “twinsets” out of coats with linings that matched models’ T-shirts. Al very fashionable and young. Pringle also presented a collaboration with Puma: part Chelsea boot, part sneaker.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

The D&G- ss2012 show brought us back to the years that Gianni Versace reigned men’s fashion with his large foulard-prints. But the designers at D&G went a bit further, they not only used the prints for shirts, they also mixed them with denim in pants, showed them on bermudas, hats, suede moccasins, jackets and T-shirts. And every which way and loose, loose being the operative word for flowing shirts, low-crotch pants and roomy swimming trunks. We’ve got the message indeed.

This is the last D&G collection before it is integrated with the main label.  So we’d better enjoy it.

Moncler Gamme Bleu Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

Tom Browne surely knows how to morph the craziness for sports into a wearable collection for the Italian label Moncler Gamme Bleu. You can’t believe that after his extra-ordinary shows led with military precision, the Italian teenagers actually buy his clothes. But leave all the quirky details and entertainment out, and left is a collection with nice athletic jackets and bombers, T-shirts, shorts, leather motorcycle gear and navy-inspired costumes. Checks came in gray and black, stripes in blue and white with an occasionally red accent and black and white played their of role.

The show was set in a real fence-club with trophies and photos of fencers lining the walls. Giant, fluorescent sci-fi lights were there just for the occasion. The connection between a fencer’s padding and Moncler’s skiwear heritage is rather obvious, but you need Browne to make the link between this and the storm troopers in Star Wars. To the tune of the movie’s ‘Imperial March’ the masked corps filed out and lined up against the back wall of the club. The tone was set.

« Previous Page — Next Page »