Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kris van Assche continued to celebrate the art of tailoring at the Dior Homme-collection. The ss2012 collection looked plain & minimal but oh so luxurious.

Shirts and tapered trousers came in natural linen and were trimmed in lambskin. Trenches appeared in powdery silk taffeta. Jackets were the stars of this precise and youthful collection, from handsome double-breasted numbers to roomy shirt-like and tunic styles, often closed at the throat and flaring open. The black hats. shoes and leather wristbands were the only contrasting details.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 3

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

What happens when you take the living soul out of a designer-collection is that the format becomes visible in every detail. And that’s what’s going on at the house of John Galliano right now.  It’s courageous of Bill Gayten to take the bow after the show, but it all looked  forced. Gone are the theatrics, but the artsy types in military jackets, David Hockney clones and rakish rockers stayed since the Swinging Sixties and Pop Art were the sources of inspiration.

All the ingredients of a Galliano-collection were there. The long jackets, funny accessories, slim suits in gray silk or crinkled white linen. The message was at the end of the show, when two mustachioed Galliano- doppelgangers took their turns. They surely do miss him.

Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Comme des Garcons again played the game of female and male dressing, Lace, pink, shiny fabrics, polka dots, crystal studs, frills – you really have to be a daredevil to wear this clothes with an attitude. But it stays interesting how Rei Kawakubo keeps on pushing the boundaries of men’s clothing, the codes etcetera.

The plot seemed to be an English boy who dreams of being a dandy prince.  Well, that explains something. What’s left after you leave all the decoration out, are nice long coats, good trenches and simple pants. But it’s the eccentricity that makes it worth looking at….

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 2

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

 

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Junya Watanabe presented a very simple collection focused at dungarees. They came in all kinds of fabrics and prints, from tough denim tot cotton checks or tartan fabrics. And they were often worn with rugged boots or rubber boots. The result was a country-inspired collection, which also explained the setting in a garden in Paris.

It was another, different way of exploring workwear, a theme Watanabe likes to work at and which still gives him new inspiration after all that time. This time the looks echoed both the American and European outdoors, but it were the tailored jackets and shirts that gave it a certain edge.

Walter van Beirendonck Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

It was a very sweet and tailored collection Walter van Beirendonck presented today. The jackets, shirts and pants had all a suburban dad-twist and tribal touches – though there is always a message underneath the clothes. On shredded T-shirts it said “Dream the World. Awake. Well, he surely got our attention!

And he will after the summer, when his first large scale retrospective will open at the Antwerp Fashion Museum in september.

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Jean Paul Gaultier kept it simple during his ss2012 presentation, the showroom was the dressing-room was the stage. So the audience, sitting at the tables where normally buyers write their orders, witnessed the models getting dressed and send off to the catwalk. It was a nice setting to underline the commercial purpose of JPG’s collection. Because it’s all about selling, no.

And commercial it was, from the Hawaiian prints to the sailor-sweaters. There were tailored jackets, fluid silk pants and natty shorts, but also the biker jackets and sporty blouson jackets with tailored pants. It was low key, but effective. Nothing new, all salable.

Streetfashion Paris Menswear SS2012 Day 1

What are you wearing during the coming fashionweeks? Your Rick Owens-shoes, your latest Givenchy-shirt or that vintage Comme des Garcons? Maybe we’ll spot you in Paris, Milan, New York or Amsterdam. During the fashionweeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Menswear Fashion Week.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

The overall theme of Dries van Noten’s ss2012 collection seemed water. Not only because the clothes referred to rain and protection from water (coats, jackets, pants) also because almost everything was waterproof.

What the designer  really had in mind were the clothes men wear for outdoor pursuits like fishing, riding, and hunting.  Following his  elegant, decadent fall-collection, Van Noten chose once more for the dark side: midnight blue and burgundy with shots of brights. That contrast came also back in other ways: structure vs softness, real vs synthetic, tradition vs technology.

The clothes had a shiny surface, thanks to the nylon, silk and wool-polyester which all have a different way of gleaming. It gave the collection a modern yet rich touch.

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