Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk Fashion Show SS16

“Keep calm and be Caribbean.” That’s how not to loose your head in the fashion madness, because there is quite some to worry about when it’s your first time to show on the Amsterdam Catwalk. “I’m so glad you didn’t fell when you turned around in those high heels”, Ms. Ray sighs from relieve afterwards. She’s one of the six designer labels of the Caribbean Fashion Spot Catwalk that was featured earlier today: Atelier Doré (Suriname), Beatriz Rodriguez (Puerto Rico), Charu Lochan Dass (Trinidad & Tobago), Gigliola Designs (Aruba), Heather Jones International (Trinidad & Tobago). They aim to provide women of today in the Caribbean with updates about the latest fashion. “They are not only beautiful, but they are all amazing young women that are working hard on their dreams! Diversity always rules and includes”, they announced a few days ago on their Facebookpage.

And yes, we spotted a lot of beautiful young women. And yes, there was quite some diversity on the catwalk as well. Starting out with Atelier Doré showing enormous silver and gemstone jewellery, featuring the tropical nature of Surinam. What followed next seemed to be the Miss Caribbean contest where there was no room for unpretentiousness. Cause if we can learn one thing from those ladies: if you have it, flaunt it baby. There was an overflow of long maxi-dresses, some off-shoulder others with a deep cut v-neck. Lots of ruffles, dainty lines, sequins and subtile shimmers. We counted several jumpsuits, some see-through or with high slits on the side and an open back. The flowy materials made it sometimes hard to see whether it was a dress or jumpsuit. Of course there’s no tropical fever without a bold colour scheme, so we got bombarded with bold pink, red, aubergine, yellow, green, blue and white.

This was not a show to give you an update on what to wear next season or how to be on trend. Although, we spotted one translucent white lace dress that could be perfect material for the ‘the rise and rise of naked dressing’ trend (how to look good naked without really being naked) as lately seen on Beyoncé, J.Lo and Kim Kardashian. Women with flaunting as their middle name. But no, this show was rather one to celebrate fashion and fun. Perhaps all those flower prints could cause some pollination of this cheerful Caribbean fever in our Dutch audience, so we can also keep it cool during these hot summer days.

Jonathan Christopher Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

You wouldn’t think Jonathan made his AFW-debut only a year ago. The Dutch designer from Rotterdam has made a huge leap forwards by winning the Global Denim Award and he has been nominated for the renowned Woolmark Prize, the global search for the world’s best emerging design talent, that will be handed out in Antwerp this monday. “This collection is peanuts when I compare it to monday’s happening. I’m so nervous!” And he has all the right to be so. If he wins this prize, he’s following in the footsteps of big names like Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent.

But this evening it was all about his summer collection. Though the sounds of heavy rain and thunderstorms and the backdrop (with dark shadows, fires and a desolated desert) made us a little frightful, Jonathan had a positive message to announce to us all. “Even the most dark and destructive moments have something positive in them. It means a new beginning. A fire, which is presented by the red tones in this collection, also represents new possibilities. New things can be born. I’ve known some new beginnings myself too, because winning the Global Denim Award got me more involved with this ancient fabric and I started experimenting with new techniques and styles, such as scratch ‘n jean(as if the denim got scratched off).” It’s the perfect example of the juxtapositions in life to which the designer is drawn: masculine and feminine, light and dark, soft and harsh. Fragility yet strength is referenced using delicate romantic draping and fabrics against a hard shell of tailoring.

But he not only experimented with lots of denim, he also showed some new silhouettes, such as the kimono (Asian influences) and flared trousers with slits on the side. And what about the trousers that had one skinny and one flared leg? Pretty unusual and progressive for a Dutch designer. Luckily there was also still plenty of room for his well-praised modern and clean silhouettes, which makes it yet another successful collection for him. And for others, as we firmly believe his new designs will be hanging in a lot of male wardrobes next summer.

MAYN Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

The wave of Dutch menswear is getting stronger every year. Tonight another name came to the surface: MAYN. This Amsterdam based menswear brand was founded in 2014 by the award-winning Croatian-born designer Maja Podrug. She launched her first unisex collection for Spring Summer 2013 and her first menswear collection for Autumn Winter 2014 at Cro-A-Porter in Zagreb. Before studying fashion design Maja graduated in Art History. Exploration of sculptural and architectural formative principles is often at the core of MAYN’s designs resulting in innovative cuts and adaptive features.

And that’s exactly what she showed this afternoon, with her collection called Flow. It was inspired by Yuanyang Rice Terraces -hybrid landscapes that represent resolution between working man. It was translated into continuous and organic curve, soft lines and otoshiana pattern-cutting technique and details. It’s minimalistic pallet of blacks, whites and dark navel color-blocking was based on the work of surrealist German-French artist, painter and poet Jean Arp. Garments also took references from villagers minimalistic work wear in terms of casual widths and longer lengths, a high number of slits and compartments, adaptive details and use of waterproof materials and rubber coating, giving it an urban outdoor feel.

The minimal but functional collection gives the wearer extra layer of confidence for sure and seems perfect for our Dutch modern day city dweller that has to deal with constant shifts between casual and business, but especially the hot temperatures and heavy rain showers that we have to deal with every summer.

Judith van Vliet x Chris van den Elzen LAB Fashion Week Amsterdam SS16

Deep ocean diving is something we normally do under strict surveillance. But Dutch designers Judith van Vliet and Chris van den Elzen took us 14000 feet deep in just a split second. No wetsuit or snorkel needed. Just your eyes, to admire and explore life beneath the waves, with its mind-blowing creatures lightening up the darkest waters and also, hopefully, our feeling of responsibility. “With this collection we wanted to show people how incredibly beautiful the ocean is, with its colours and interesting creatures like jellyfish, plankton and algea. The oceans are the lungs of our world, so we should take good care of it. But we don’t seem to realize their importance, if you look at the heavy pollution that’s going these days. There’s not enough attention for this huge world problem.” So the designers took a good shot at it.
It was translated into a colour palette of different shades of blue, black, whites and coral tones. Liquid lines and light,transparant fabrics resembling the fluid water. We saw some skirts and vests with scaly structures. Simple plastic strokes were made into abstract coral-like adornment. The models’ faces were painted with bold blue tones and soft sparkles on their eyelids reaching over the eyebrows combined with a semi wet hair look. Normally ending rock bottom is something we would avoid by any chance. But this time it wouldn’t have been so bad to stay a little bit longer below the surface.

Aziz Bekkaoui Catwalk Fashion Show Amsterdam SS16

“There will be a surprising guest-model walking down the runway tonight”, Dutch tv-host and male model Dirk Taat revealed a few minutes before show time. That already started many rumours about the opening show of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Amsterdam. And it was up to artist and designer Aziz Bekkaoui, who has his roots in Morocco, to warm up the fashion audience. And it seemed to be the follow-up of his last season show. While his fall collection was all about love, named United Hearts Now, this time it was about United Origins. His aim was to redefine everyday lines, squares, colours and symbols that have been around us for ages, surrounding us in the streets and in the media. Sometimes it’s good to look at regular things from a different angle, change your perception and see it in a new and refreshing daylight, considering them more than just a colour or solid constitution. The result was a clean graphic pallet of black, white, red and blue held together by golden cement. In some outfits a bold orange caught our eye, in others the British flag peeped out, perhaps the epitome of his message. Some outfits looked modernly clean, others were richer, more accessorised or slightly preppy. Oh and not to mention those white sneakers. Any guy who wouldn’t want to wear those crispy whites during summer time? We kept on flipping the pages in our ‘How to Stay Cool During the Summer’ guide, which was underlined by Amy Winehouse’s Back to Black and an upbeat Dutch hip hop finale song, which was a direct link to that mysterious guest on the runway, Dutch rapper Yes-R. One thing’s for sure; Aziz gives you a one way ticket to a cool urban attitude.

Saint Laurent Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Fashion followers know that Hedi Slimane has been photographing the California beach scene for years — long before he replaced Paris for  Los Angeles. So now wonder his ss16 menswear collection has its roots in the “Surf Sounds” .

The pitch-black show venue was covered in kitschy palm-trees-at-sunset wallpaper. And similar motifs turned up on satin jackets and mohair granny cardigans, which the young models wore with the same nonchalance as black leather jackets.

There was plenty of Kurt Cobain in the men’s looks: the shaggy hairstyles; the white plastic sunglasses, the plaid shirts; the denim with blown-out knees. And there were plenty of literal thrift-shop styles.

 

 

Balmain Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

For his debut men’s wear show for Balmain, Olivier Rousteing was pretty good prepared. He kicked off with the hardcore techno track “Prepare for Glory.” He tapped the world’s most successful male model, Sean O’Pry, to open and close the show. And he stacked the catwalk with beauties like Alessandra Ambrosio, dressed in women’s resort. For inspiration, Rousteing looked to the great adventurers of the early 20th century — but this was safari male to the max.

Leather jackets were intricately latticed and laced, while a tobacco-hued explorer suit came spliced with a double-breasted jacket with gold buttons. In a nod to hip-hop culture, butter-soft suede was draped into a cowl-necked vest and slouchy drop-crotched pants, while a black sweatshirt glistened with a web of gold hardware. Rousteing plastered his signature gold crests, some featuring a lion’s head or a Union Jack flag, on jackets, including a tiger-striped ponyskin bomber with black leather sleeves, and a trim black blazer with satin lapels

Louis Vuitton Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Kim Jones, menswear designer of Louis Vuitton, likes to travel. Looking for rare animals, hidden crafts and remote landscapes. In Myanmar last year, Jones came across a tribe whose handmade costumes — loosely cut and bearing dynamic stripes — brought to mind modern streetwear and a whiff of the Eighties hip-hop scene. More recently in Japan, he discovered Kobe leather, named after the pampered cows that produce that prized beef.

Jones dappled exotic prints and embroideries, mainly plucked from Southeast Asia, across traditional Ivy League silhouettes. He hit on souvenir jackets, also sending out sweatshirt versions and similar pajama sets decorated with birds of paradise, cranes and monkeys lodged in bamboo.

Accessories were mostly  totes in supple versions of monogram canvas that are, like the souvenir jackets and those coats in the thinnest leather, reversible.

Givenchy Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Dries van Noten Menswear Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2016

Dries van Noten honored Hollywood bombshell Marilyn Monroe, in his spring collection. There were black-and-white photo prints on suits, capes, shirts, sweaters, boxer shorts, you name it. And it will sure ignite a trend.  This collection echoed other Paris runwayshows in pointing to a more embellished path for men’s wear. Van Noten added sparkly embroideries and sequins to his roomy, vaguely Fifties clothes as Elvis Presley crooned “Love Me Tender”.  Besides Monroe’s lips, lobsters were a recurrent motif, winking to Salvador Dali and Elsa Schiaparelli, among “creative provocateurs” Van Noten cited as references.

The designer choose looser silhouettes, teaming his slouchy double-breasted jackets and boxy camp shirts with skater shorts.

« Previous Page — Next Page »