WOMENSWEAR SS2016: The metallic movement

You could think of this as something that belongs to glitzy granny’s in Advanced Style, Lady Gaga or ’10 outfits Only Samantha Jones Can Wear’. But as a matter of fact, shiny gold fabric and metallics are a huge trend (ever since 2014) and seem to make a lasting impression. Although it feels like a throwback to the 80’s, don’t be scared, cause the metallic trend is less space man and over the top than you might think. It’s actually more out of this world. That means: modern, classy and sophisticated. Even sexy.

It’s becoming more and more versatile and it can be as simple as teaming a metallic skirt or trousers with a simple white shirt for a less boring everyday look (looking at you Loewe). Or have a look at Chanel on how to add a metallic shoe, purse or hand glove (how Michael Jackon can it be) to your outfit. Bright metallic accessories is a proper and easy way to add a a little va-va-voom. And literally shine all night with all the girls wearing a sparkly metallic (slip)dress (check check, Saint Laurent). And if, if you dare to take it up another notch, show your wild side with Prada’s golden lips. How sassy! All else there’s left is just a bunch of confidence.

MENSWEAR TREND ss2016: Vintage Americana

‘Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa. Cuba Quiero bailar la salsa.’ When seeing this trend, all we want to do is sing and sway to the Gibson Brothers song. Bring in the summer, pretty please! Latin America is becoming popular every year, not only when it comes to traveling (it’s on our wish list for sure!), but now also in fashion.

The cuban collar shirt never seems to fade away from the mens wardrobe and isn’t a newcomer. It’s probably something that your grandfather wore in the 1950s, the time the shirt made its big debut on the fashion stage. It’s the perfect light and breezy element in every men’s summer wardrobe, making it a gentleman’s must-have. Like a hot summer night in vice city. It oozes old-school charm and class. What sets them apart from the rest? They have an open, lapel-like collar, short-sleeved, buttoned down and have a straight cut hem. The collections from Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten and Raf Simons all showed Cuban-collar shirts, executed with geometric prints or summery pastels. Yes, you can go terribly (but really terribly) wrong with this one (think Hawaiian or retro bowling style or Tony Montana in Scarface), but combined with baggy trousers (huge trend!), neckerchiefs (yep, trend!) and a pair of chinos and you’re done. This is a first for you? Maybe it’s best to opt for a slim-fitting version rather than a traditional boxy cuts to start of with. Consider rolling your shirtsleeves for an added touch of 50s nostalgia. Though, the main decision you have to make is will you wear the collar under or over your lapels. The designers will help you decide how to integrate a touch of vintage 1950s style to your warm-weather look.

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2016, Day 3

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

Streetfashion Haute Couture Paris SS2016, Day 2

What are they wearing during the international fashion weeks? A Raf Simons jacket, that vintage YSL or their latest Comme des Garcons suit? During the fashion weeks we refresh our streetwear posts regularly. We don’t judge, we’re not the fashion-police, we just enjoy fashion and your own personal style. Next stop: Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week.

 

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear Spring 2016

“Let’s get digital, digital. I wanna get digital. Let’s get into digital.” The first song (a parody of Olivia-Newton John’s ‘Physical’) suddenly popped into our minds by seeing the Louis Vuitton’s newest collection, showed in the brand’s brand new Louis Vuitton Fondation. Perhaps it was slightly to bubbly for this considerable tough collection. They choose Moderat’s ‘New Error’ as the (yes, perfect indeed) soundtrack to compagnon the big screens beaming futuristic outer space lights. The fully packed front row (Catherine Deneuve, Miranda Kerr, Michelle Williams and many more A-listers) was about to take off and rise up into, well, the future perhaps. We were looking at the frontiers of the digital era and took a trip into sci-fi. It was one of the few shows that didn’t look back, but forward. Way forward. A theme like this can be quite challenging for such a big and established brand like Louis Vuitton, but it has proved many times it can translate its heritage from the past into the future. Any future so to speak. Nicolas Ghesquière did a great job finding a in between way making a clear sartorial statement. He opened the show with a a bubblegum pink leather jacket edged up with patent black tape, a black patchwork skirt and heavy black sports-sandals. It set the tone right away: this girl is a tough one (literally, the models had their hands bound like boxers). Even so is her wardrobe. Dazzling silvered dresses and coats, ‘oily’ holographic sheen, metallic puffball or bubbled skirts, shiny knits, in-your-face zippers running over a leather skirt or on the frontside of trousers. But if we’re talking about IT-items for next season, there might be a good chance the biker jackets with monogrammed sleeves and LV prints will be a huge hit amongst their more youthful and experimental customer.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Taking inspiration from etnic cultures is something quite familiair for spring summer collections. What can we say: in summer we mostly prefer wearing bold colours, playful prints and anything that makes us feel ready for summer. Creative directors Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took us to wild Africa. Or they took wild Africa to Europe. Or not they, we did. Cause their inspiration is some with a heavy and controversial undertone, it was about the thousands of African refugees that have made their way to southern Europe, Italy in this case, to save their own lives. We were not only witnessing pretty dresses and must have shoes and bags, but also the humanitarian crisis that Europe is facing right now. What does fashion have to do with this? It gives a message. In this case: tolerance. As Maison Valentino described it on Twitter: “Primitive, tribal, spiritual, yet regal” and the collection was a “journey to the beginning of time and the essential of primitive nature.” They translated this into a mix of Italian en African essentials. Roman influences with tribal treatments. We saw Masai-style beadwork, bone necklaces, raffia, laser cut leatherwork, feathery details, micro studs and beading on tulle, white ceramic neckpieces (chockers), embellishment, embroidering and fringing. Not to speak the countless floor sweeping translucent red carpet ready show stoppers at the end of the show. The models wearing cornrows. Bongo drums as musical background. There was so much eye for detail (the mask details on the bags), craftsmanship, grace and elegance. It showed the best of both worlds, easily joining forces to create breathtaking beauty. It may not work like this in the ‘real world’, but it was the best message to put out there right now.

Saint Laurent Paris Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear Spring 2016

The pitch-black story continues. After the rock stars slash groupies from the fall 2015 collection and the dark menswear collection from last season, LA-based designer Hedi Slimane decided to roll out the black carpet even more. It felt like diving deeper into this young rocker chick’s wardrobe. Add a splash of Courtney Love (who was actually there at the show) and Kate Moss and you’re ready to bake the cake.

When we heard that the primary source of this collection was the everyday wardrobe we were kind of surprised. Because everyday it was: a white cotton camisole teamed up with a regular jeans and trenchcoat or a biker jacket with jeans. We even spotted blue denim dungarees with wellie boots. Everything but the familiar Slimane DNA. Luckily for the true Slimane admirers and buyers, between the more casual garments, there were plenty of sexy I-dont-give-a-fuck dresses, half hanging on your shoulders, and little nighttime pieces that leave your breasts out in the open. All silky, glittery or covered in animal print. Yet again we saluted the mini slipdresses (a huge trend for next spring!), but also drapey bias gowns and the finale existed of almost all-black gowns with high center-slits that will make you wanna find (not wait for) a party. Any party, that is. Or throw one yourself. Add a oversize denim jacket, motorcycle jacket, golden varsity jacket, or furry vest and you’re ready to go. Oh wait, before we forget: perhaps lose the frown and pout. You can wear the most gorgeous dress and even a crown, but in the end it’s the face everyone will remember.

Stella McCartney Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Check, check, check. That’s how Stella McCartney opened her spring 2016 show. All in vivid colours such as red, green, black and yellow. Some of them as preppy polo shirts, as one shoulder dresses or maxi-skirts and tanktops. It was the perfect start to give you this relaxed, summer vibe.

It was a typical McCartney collection: sharp, simple tailoring with a feminine touch and a considerate approach to wearability. Because she knows like no other how to design clothes that actual women really would like to wear. In Dutch we have a saying for this, and it sort of sounds like: from a nice plate you cannot eat. Which means: only beauty won’t work. But that doesn’t seem to be the problem for McCartney. Her collection breaths comfort, and we were breathing ‘oooh’s’ and ‘aaah’s’ of excitement. The plissé pleated top over a plissé pleated skirt both in contrast zingy colours, the asymmetrical poloshirts worn over body-con stretchy skirts, and raw indigo denim looks. The familiair elliptical hemlines and slouchy tailoring was there as well. The collection ended with a range of lovely black and white, orange, yellow and blue (evening)dresses, providing discreet glimpses of skin and with sporty mesh inserts. Super sexy and feminine, but no I-cant-breath-or-move-in-this-dress situations. And that’s what we thank her a million for.

Celine Catwalk Fashion Show Paris Womenswear SS2016

Before the show even had started, the Celine team had people already talking about the huge tented space in yellow, orange, red and blue. It was designed by the Danish artist Fos, also known as Thomas Poulsen, and a longstanding collaborator with Philo on furnishings in several Céline stores worldwide. The backdrop is always one of the first signs to see what’s on the menu for spring 2016 and this tent symbolized the feeling of freedom. Pack your tent and you can go anywhere you want.

But although you’re on holiday and decided to go camping, you still want to look your best. Philo understands like no other. The main question for this collection was: how do clothes make you feel? Or more importantly: how do you want them to make you feel? According to Philo, it’s powerful, strong, sexy, feminine and free. She doesn’t only creates clothes she likes to wear herself, but simultaneously the kind of clothes that other women might actually want to wear. From the fashion editors to the main stream audience and from New York to Japan. And we’re sure same goes for this spring collection. If you were wondering how to combine soft refinement and duty or how to balance between strong and feminine, take a close look. We counted many strong and structured silhouettes layered over soft and fluid garments, like a leathery tunic worn over a soft blue flowy t-dress or a minimalistic halter top teaming up with classic checked trousers. Philo also did a turn with lingerie, like she did for fall 2015. The lace-trimmed black and white silk slip dresses that opened the show are the perfect comfy summer wear, surprisingly combined with sturdy ankle boots and a perfectly strong tailored coat worn over it. But it could be easily worn as negligees as well. The smooth braids, bold red lips and eye graphics only empowered every look even more.

Commes des Garçons Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear SS2016

Rei Kawakubo always have been part of the most fearless designer pact. And that’s what she showed today, adding another show in her range of extremely challenging and extravagant collections. Will we see anything recognizable as clothes? Not much. It was big, weird, in-your-face and anything but commercial. We were looking at monumental sculptural creations in deep and icy blues, based on her theme ‘blue which’. But is it a good or bad which? We weren’t sure. The big red plasticised afro’s covering the models faces, and black painted doll lips were kind of frightening. Same goes for the voluminous garments, that seemed to be a lot of everything, but we were actually looking at a black large coat with white cotton ruffles all the way down the front, a black shiny velvet coat, a pleated black wool and velvet coat-dress or an ice blue and navy dress with exaggerated sleeves. It was the cascade of marabou feathers that gave the harsh looks a softer and more playful touch. The idea behind all those layers and volumes was turning the clothes into a refuge from the world in times of crisis; a place where we can safely bury ourselves and where we can be who we want to be. When we have such a space in which to reflect, we remember who we are and what we value. Something Rei Kawakubo knows by heart. It may not be commercial and wearable, but Commes des Garcons has grown against all odds into an independent worldwide multibrand.

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