SiesMarjan Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

It was designer Sander Laks third collection with his label SiesMarjan. And he embraced fantastical color and free-flowing silhouettes for a look that is otherworldly in a sweet but subversive way.

First and foremost, the lineup was an earnest celebration of the magic of color. Lak has an eye for daring palette combinations that ricochet off each other — magenta and nude; sorbet orange, mint green and beige; acid blue and brown. Instead of tempering the bold tones, he cast them on fabrics that intensified the dreaminess of the hues.

Sporty touches modernized the flou, such as an iridescent dress that was ruched around the bodice but zipped up like a windbreaker. Those details — zippers, snaps, utility pockets — brought the ethereal look down to earth.

Victoria Beckham Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Victoria Beckham brought a tailored, soft and modest collection on stage yesterday. By using rich-but-grounded colors, like navy, oxblood, red and orange, and reworking classic men’s tailoring with square blazers and full-leg trousers, Beckham sent a subliminal message of strength. A woman in a sharply cut burgundy coat over fluid pants with a dashing foulard swishing under the coat is dressed to be taken seriously.
Even rounder, curvier and more fluid stuff, such as a red chiffon dress under a navy blazer, a navy sweater with sculpted sleeves and tie-waisted trousers, and body-skimming jersey dresses in graphic swirled prints inspired by Paul Nash, had a determined air. Likewise, the impressive shoes: pointy flats with double buckles and sturdy boots — wedges and high heels.

Maison the Faux Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Please enjoy the pictures for now, our review will follow shortly.

Alexander Wang Catwalk Fashion Show NYC Womenswear FW2017

Alexander Wang presented an all black, punk-inspired collection with hints of nineties doomy underground Berlin.

Calvin Klein Catwalk Fashion Show Womenswear FW2017

Raf Simons made his debut as chief creative officer at Calvin Klein with a collection thrilled with smart, powerful clothes for women and men. Everything surrounding the clothes sent out a message of efficiency and pragmatism.
His inspiration was all about the U.S. American youth – which is the future for this country. So the collection turned out to be minimalistic, but in a modern sense packed with American references both general and Calvinist. The former category covered workwear and How to Make an American Quilt Parka.
As it turned out, Simons didn’t go near the Seventies, preferring Klein’s tailored Nineties. Despite the stated inspiration of young America, the collection wasn’t all that young. The clothes will appeal, too, across gender. Throughout, Simons showed his-and-hers versions of like concepts, some nearly identical. There were buttoned-up shirts tucked into hip-slung trousers with bright athletic stripes down the sides; matching denim; those sheer Ts over men’s wear fabrics — his, pants, hers, a trouser skirt; spectacular mannish coats under a layer of slick plastic. The tailoring continued in perfectly cut men’s suits, some in vibrant colors; others, classic checks. For women, he also showed vibrant ribbed knit skirts and plastic-sheathed feathered dresses, their silhouette inspired by the house archive.

Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2017

To state Viktor & Rolf’s couture collection was breathtakingly beautiful would still be an understatement. Their collection of broken dreams was simply stunning from beginning to end. Inspired by Kintsugi (the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with lacquer dusted or mixed with powdered gold, silver, or platinum as it’s breakage and repair are part of the history of an object) the Dutch design duo cut up old vintage gowns and used pieces of them on their brand new designs (quite the sustainable idea). Attached with a gold or silver lining around it, just like the cups and bowls you’d find after Googling ‘Kintsugi’. Now in case you thought this game of cut and paste would make the couture pieces end up like rag dolls, this was definitely not the case. The pieces gave the new looks, which were already stunners, extra value, a deeper layer. The color scheme (that moved from brights to pastels) worked gorgeously as did they interplay of sheerness, highly decorated jacquards, polka dots, checks and thick layers of 3D tule. Viktor and Rolf even pulled off some impressive couture pants. And believe it or not this collection even appeared quite wearable (given that it was haute couture and Viktor & Rolf). The finale of five different (broken) dream dresses was every girls fantasy. The deep green cut-outs attached to the light pink gown (look 28) was the perfect couture gown mash up. Couture collage done like only Viktor & Rolf would. Can you tell we’re head over (their shiny, ankle strap) heels?

Iris van Herpen Haute Couture Catwalk Show SS2017

An all black room covered in zigzag white lines awaited us at Iris van Herpen couture show today. A show that was about so much more than just presenting a new collection. The New York Times already titled it a ‘meditation on distortion, visual and psychological’. Iris herself named it “the imperfections of systems and structures in both the physical and digital worlds”. What we witnessed was an impressive line-up of true pieces of art. Using the newest of techniques, laser cutting and 3-D handcasting, Iris came up with the most delicate geometric ‘dresses’ that through optical illusion seemed to pulse to the rhythm of the music. Dresses perhaps with a simple fit, but extraordinary in their execution. Full of nature inspired patterns and textures with some stunning, mind blowing silhouettes. Designed to make a statement, explore the possibilities of fashion technology and leave room for multiple interpretations. Tempting haute couture customers to actually buy and wear one of these dresses is the least of Iris van Herpens worries. She designs for the love of art and her creations end up in museums more often than they do at red carpets. A place where the final piece, a transparent water drop / crystal splash dress, definitely deserves a focus spot. A design a museum visitor could stare at for hours, while it changes with the rays of light. A modern technology driven design Iris managed to turn into a dress that actually spoke about delicacy, elegancy and sensuality. “Oh my god. These Iris Van Herpen pieces just changed the game”, said an attendee on Twitter. And Iris may have done just that.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

The fall collection of Lanvin was themed “Nothing” and had no logos, art, collaboration, decoration, or vintage references (there were even scarfs with the word “Nothing” on them). Instead, Lucas Ossendrijver focused on shape, construction and cut and enhanced everyday pieces such as the checked shirt, parka and chino.

Elevation came through some sartorial tricks: The double lapels of gray plaid or check coats melted away midway down the torso, while knife folds were pressed onto the fronts and back of jackets and into the sides of the sleeves. Armholes were high and shoulders were sharp and built out, while plaid shirts fluttered from beneath jackets, toning down all the fierce tailoring.

Outerwear had an artistic bent, as in a big black cape that looked as if it had been molded from paper mache while a black leather jacket that was inset, Matisse-like, with triangular bits of blue. The plaid on a duffle coat went every which way, as if the pattern had been shattered — and later reassembled. Knits were interesting, too, with many of them truncated at the waist to reveal more plaid shirts. Trousers veered between the slim and the oversized, with chinos pre-wrinkled with big cuffs.
Sometimes the classics are fine just as they are.

Rick Owens Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

For his fall 2017 collection Rick Owens sent out modern-day nomads, dragging their blankets and belongings around on their backs. Models, their stringy hair pasted to their heads and in disarray, wore nylon puffer pieces. They came in the form of mile-long scarves that dragged across the floor or coats, shawls and ballooning shrugs that resembled reworked sleeping bags.
All the proportions were exaggerated. Coveralls and trousers were as wide as elephant legs, their bottoms pooling over chunky sneakers and shoes with layered soles. Jackets were like voluminous leather sculptures, bulging with zipper pockets and pouches, while coats were made from ragged-edged patches.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Menswear Paris FW2017

Louis Vuitton collaborated with cult New York skatewear brand Supreme for the fall 2017-collection. It surely will unleash some retail hysteria.
Items from the highly anticipated partnership were the stars of the Vuitton men’s wear show, held in a transparent tent in the Palais-Royal gardens in front of guests including David Beckham, Kate Moss and James Marsden.

Cobranded goods — ranging from a bright red fanny pack to a denim jacquard baseball shirt — peppered the collection, which Kim Jones, men’s artistic director at Vuitton, said was inspired by New York art stars of the early Eighties such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Julian Schnabel, Keith Haring and Andy Warhol.
Oversized coats, long sweaters, sneakers and slouchy pants made for a casual attitude.
Pajama shirts featuring collages of Vuitton advertising images from the Thirties were a reference to Schnabel, while a camouflage jacquard weaving together the Supreme logo and Vuitton’s monogram nodded at Warhol’s self-portrait

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