Missoni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

In a season where color sets the trend you expect a Missoni-collection to be a multicolored festival. In a certain way it was, regarding the hippie-like dresses with zig-zag, geometric patterns and colorful inserts. But on the other hand it looked a bit overdone too: and color, and the Missoni-signature patterns, and an African theme plus a Japanese/ Mexican vibe on top of that. The result was a more or less psychedelic collage of dresses.

Angela Missoni played with layering, pleating, fringing and embellishments like beads and sequins. She presented smocks, tunics, caftans and kimonos and mixed it all together. But the mood was energetic, hopefully Missoni is capable to transfer that to the customer and into the stores.

Dolce & Gabbana Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

First the celebs had to arrive and set themselves before the Dolce & Gabbana show could start. Luckily Kylie Minogue was on time this time, followed by Naomi Campbell and Jada Pinket-Smith with her daugther Willow. During the intro with Cavaleria Rusticana old campaign-images flashed starring Madonna, Dutch model Marpessa Henning and Monica Belluci plus the words bianco, sartoria, siciliana. It set the tone of the collection, which had all the Dolce & Gabbana ingredients.

It was a good show in terms of models, music, pace and atmosphere. But the set up seemed repetitive with collections shown before, not only the theme but also with a parade of models dressed alike at the finale and the clothes. There was no color at all, besides a few flowerprints in blue and green.  Black, white and the leopardprint played a leading role, as did lace, broderie anglaise, cotton and boudoir-like items as babydolls and bloomers. Tube-dresses were followed by skirt-suits, long dresses, mini-dresses and tunics. It was a sweet collection from a commercial point of view, but I hope the designerduo will continue to use their main line as their playing garden and come up with some fresh and intriguing.  One line with a different worked out concept every season- D&G – is enough.

Marni Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Marni mixed athletic wear with her typical contemporary style into a streamlined, colorful collection with slim sportpants, collarless jackets and mini-dresses as the centerpieces of the collection. Short dustcoats in leather were perforated, minidresses were made of macrame-lace or embellished with embroidered 3D applications. Nearly every outfit was a mix of layers. The silhouet was slim but structured. Colors moved from blue, white and green to pink, orange and yellow.

Colorblocking, contrasting stripes in black, diagonally striped motifs and psychedelic flowerprints added an upbeat touch to the collection. The stiff techno fabrics for mini-dresses and cropped pants sometimes reminded of the Sixties space-style, while the long dresses in hallucinating prints reminded of the Seventies.

This was not one of Marni’ best collections, maybe because she suggested too much. But sport is defenitely back in fashion.

Jil Sander Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Wow, that was a real good Jil Sander-show. The way Raf Simons treats colors, the new minimalism but also the need for strong elegance proofs he is a true craftsman and creative, daring designer. Yes, the silhouette was exaggerated, yes the colors sometimes hurt the eyes and yes the skirts were maybe too long – but fashion can take a whole new direction with his ideas.

Simons focused at shape, volume, proportion and new materials and used couture as his vehicle. Skirts were long and sack shaped, trousers ultra-wide and some tops had a contrasting frill. This sounds very old fashioned haute couture – especially because it reminded of the old YSL and Givenchy – but Simons added a modern touch by mixing it with plain white T-shirts or a tank-top. Jackets had contrasting front edges, the long skirts seemed classic but had sensual high splits and the simple dresses with vertical stripes (in white and navy) looked modern and right on.

Besides shape, color was his most important message; so don’t be afraid of neon yellow, day glo orange, shocking pink, purple, green, electric blue or the exaggerated floral prints.

Blumarine Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Emporio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

According to the pressrelease the collection of Emporio Armani was concentrated around ten elements: glamour, geometric deco, lightness, sheath, daywear, sleekness, shades , shape, form and fancy. Well, it briefly told what the collection was about: different layers of different shapes created new (sleek) forms, stretch see through tubes and leggings tamed the short dresses and skirts, minreal shades got company of green, black and watermelon red.

Max Mara Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Somehow the summerseason is never the strongest at Max Mara. Winter means coats and they’re good at that. So the trenchcoats and suits were the best of the spring summer collection plus the long dresses in solid colors like red, purple and yellow.

Color was an important theme of the collection besides minimalism. The team at Max Mara tried to translate the big trend of next summer into a special look, but somehow the short flared pants looked a bit outdated and too tight for now and the use of some hairy fabric did not quite succeed. And even the translation of a minimal style was not totally convincing. Although the striped jackets and dresses and nude-colored shirts and shorts were a good shot.

Bottega Veneta Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

Just like his menswearcollection for ss2010 Tomas Maier tried to mix formal and casual wear into ultra-comfortable womenswear without losing the feminine touch. So flowing dresses got structure thanks to leather inserts, tankstops were attached to wide skirts decorated with studs, dresses were long, wide and fluid and suits looked as if they came straight out of the water.

The silhouette was close to the body but never tight, sometimes (crocodile) leather contrasted with the  silk and jerseys that had a wetlook.  It was the fluidity of the fabrics that gave the collection it’s sensual touch. Colors were rather modest compared to the vivid pinks and yellows we spotted in other collections. Bottlegreen, gray, black, white, babyblue and taupe were the key-colors. The flat sandals and slippers accentuated  the casual theme.

D&G Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2011

The D&G invite appeared to be a big hint on the theme for the actual fashion show. It had a colorful floral print and a little envelope with actual (floral) seeds in it. So when we arrived at D&G the whole show area was filled with the most beautiful flowers. It was as if we had ended up in a fairytale, but in fact it was D&G’s spectacular Garden Party.

Hurts’ Wonderful life came out of the speakers as the models came on to the runway. The fact that they wore floral prints too came as no surprise, in fact the floral prints were the main aspect of the collection.

There were floral prints in every variation you could think of. They came by on tops, floor-sweeping dresses, jumpsuits, overalls and shorts, alternated by red and white picnic cloth checks and some images of Disney’s Snow White.

Several lace outfits popped up too, as well as some patent red leather. Shoes with flowers around the ankles and headscarves, gardening gloves and tools completed the fresh-looking summer collection.

And just when we though it was over Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce sent all their models out on the runway wearing ultra-feminine, long, airy, floral printed, seventies dresses, each with a different print and color. A perfect bohemian-chic ending of a great garden party full of romantic, yet playful designs.

Oscar de la Renta Catwalk Fashion Show New York SS2011

It was a typical Oscar de la Renta-show, full of pretty dresses, dramatic evening-gowns and impeccable make up. But somehow it all looked a bit too retro to me, the hair, the accessories, the setting, the mix, even the music.

I’m sure there are ladies who adore his style, but it has very little to do with fashion and new ideas.  This is Oscar. And Oscar is what you get : a dream of young girls going to their prom.

There were ladylike tweeds, windowpane plaids, and raffia embroidered linen garments.  For cocktail hour, there were a number of modern dresses, like a strapless dress in navy gazar embroidered with black organza or a white swansdown tutu. The evening gowns looked like promdresses, some with just one shoulderstrap, the other with a matching bolero, ruffled or with embroideries all over.

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