Raf Simons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Before the show of Raf Simons even had started, rumors about the designer leaving his commercial partner were already spreading around. And the rumors seemed true, but did not affect the show and the collection at all. Simons sent out a calm, yet inventive collection with a mix futurism (pants in black PVC, mohair aprons) and preppy college style (sweaters, checks, Fair Isle knits). Duffel coats, in camel and brights, were the main statement. One voluminous version came in purple neoprene – worn with a sharp shirt and tie and a scarf – while another cocoon-shaped design in tomato red fastened with a single closure at the neck.
Backstage the designer said he wanted to explore a mix of maturity and youth, and also pay homage to craftsmen.
Hermès Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Double breasted & leather were the most important aspects of the new Hermes menswear collection. Suit jackets and coats in any kind of material were all double breasted. Even the leather ones, which – together with several pairs of leather pants (in black, green and Burgundy) – could be seen throughout the whole collection. There even was a army green leather overall, which looked extremely thick and heavy.
According to Hermes other hot items for next fall are the lammy coat, checked suits, hooded jackets, printed scares and turtle neck sweaters. We saw some models in surprisingly bright versions of the turtle neck (yellow and turquoise) passing by.
One thing we know for sure; the Hermes man won’t be freezing his butt off wearing clothes from this ultimate winter-proof collection.
Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 22, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
It was a romantic and gently deconstructed collection of Ann Demeulemeester with hints of antique uniforms. The designer gave the fronts of topcoats, jackets and waistcoats a used and beaten look, and most of the jackets peeled open in flaps at the waist. She also bleached fabrics to make ghostly patterns, sometimes sprinkled across a suit like a constellation. Pops of blue, red, yellow or orange broke the darkness, Demeulemeester used the colors for tops or they peeped out from under sheer black layers. The high, black ridingboots and leather gloves gave the models the look of a 17th century landlord, elegant, tough and a bit nostalgic
The standing ovation from Patti Smith was well deserved.
Dior Homme Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 22, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Karl Lagerfeld and P. Diddy, attending the Dior Homme fashion show on Saturday, caused quite a stir. Diddy was in Paris to promote his new CD ‘Last train to Paris’ and stopped by at Dior while he was in the neighborhood. Lagerfeld probably was just curious on how good of a job Kris van Assche did.
Van Assche came up with perfectly tailored menswear, yet it was nothing too unexpected. His models wore light grey suits with turtle necks, woolen cardigans, black capes and very minimalistic coats. The pants were loos-fitting and most minimalistic looks were accessorized by large (Western-inspired?) hats.
At the end a little bit of bright red was added to the color palette of grey, black and brown. The clean looks appeared easy and wearable; just what men look for in their clothing.
Kenzo Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Most of the models at Kenzo’s show today worked the perfect university student look. Complete with v-neck sweaters, backpacks, knitted waistcoats, shirts, coats and high waisted pants that showed just a little bit of ankle.
All looks were put together very precisely. And though many of the clothes will look good together (if you’d mix and match them with each other) the outfits presented on the runway were perfection.
Antonio Marras showed a lot of checks (even the Tartan version), classic knitted stripes and some other traditional graphic designs. And he worked some wonderful colors into his winter collection; red, pink, turquoise, yellow, blue. He proved menswear doesn’t have to look dark and boring. Especially not in winter!
John Galliano Catwalk Fashion Show FW2011
With his fallcollection 2011 John Galliano tried to tell the story of balletdancer Rudolph Nurejev: his struggles, triumphs and artistry. Of course he studied the life of the great dancer thoroughly and tried to translate every part of it even his idea of hope, discipline , dreams and the way he fled Russia. The show started with a pack of Russian emigres amidst a flurry of snowflakes dressed in heavy layers of second hand overcoats and with all their belongings packed at their back. Further on the show recounted Nurejev’s jet setting years in the Sixties, the torturing rehearsals in studios and finally beautiful, glamorous stage-costumes with Tatar-elements.
Galliano didn’t forget the fashiontrends though, he did send out beautiful militairy coats, chunky cardigans, cropped blazers and some fur. Colors were dark and rich, fabrics soft, wahed and luxurious.
Givenchy Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
Givenchy’s catwalk show started 90 minutes late, due to a power failure. Yet Riccardo Tisci’s new collection was worth the wait. It, once again, felt very Gothic with lottts of black and a very awkward Rottweiler print that kept on popping up.
He showed many different versions of a wide short, worn with laced boots, which we doubt many men will want to wear. Rottweiler printed sweaters were combined with checked blouses and many of the jackets had black leather part.
Besides all the black Tisci also introduced some beige-colored looks and he ended with several tuxedos. All worn by male models sporting very big geek glasses, hats that looked like kettle turned upside down and tough belts.
We were also delighted to see three girls walking the show in between all the diverse group of men. Especially since two of them, Daphne Groeneveld (who is in the new Givenchy campaign) and Saskia de Brauw, are Dutch. Great job girls!
Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
The men’s suit played a major part in the collection of Comme des Garcons, even cardigans looked like a well made jacket. It was actually a very decadent collection compared to other’s we’ve seen of the Japanese label. Maybe it was because of the flowing, silk fabrics used for skirts and pants mixed with slim tailoring. It was a very modern, layered mix of T-shirts, comfy and soft looking jackets and wide pants. The loose fit is something we have to get used to, after years of slim tailoring.
But is all looked relaxed and rich, thanks to the colors and fabrics.
Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
For next fall Junya Watanabe showed us a different take on the Fair Isle knits, which were a big hit this winter. Instead of showing the print on cardigans and sweaters Watanabe used it on suit jackets and coats in the most colorful examples. They looked comfy and warm and formed a good combination with the ankle hem of the (pretty basic-looking) pants. As they ambled around some park benches, placed in the middle of the stage, Watanabe’s mustached models really worked the new look.
The color palette ranging from bright red and blue to mustard yellow and dark green gave the collection a cheerful twist and showed the versatility of the collection too. ‘Cause whether it’s a 18-year old student or a 45-year old family man, many fellows will be able to work some of the fairy isle items into their wardrobes.
Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011
January 21, 2011 by Jetty
Filed under Fashion, Featured Items, Menswear, Paris
Like other designers Dries Van Noten seemded to have found inspiration in the militairy world, but more free and luxurious using his strengths as a tailor and colorist. His own comment to the collection though was that he wanted something glamorous without being feminine and that’s where David Bowie as the Thin White Duke comes along. Not only in the silhouette, also the grooming of the models and in the soundtrack.
A battalion of navy jackets and overcoats — some oversize and belted, others slim-line — formed the backbone of Van Noten’s collection. He added removable fur collars and lapels or inner nylon shells in contrasting shades. He showed little discipline in the pants department, sending out skinny motorcycle and oversize Bowie-styles in equal measure. He also played with oppositions: a formal navy evening jacket over a casual white tee: a sleek, chic shawl-collared blazer in traditional camel pinning down the silhouette over huge white cargo pants; a cropped cadet jacket laden with bullion embroidery paired with a chunky hand-knit; dark overcoats in the most traditional English materials layered over their exact twins in bright white technical fabrics.
