Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Almost entirely black. Ann Demeulemeester sticked to her own language, and let only a little bit of red and blue speak for itself – mixed with black that is. It was dark, goth and tough yet beautiful, romantic and fragile/edgy at the same time.

The Belgian designer strated with aggressively tailored looks, some cut from hard leathers, and all laced with loose strips trailing in the back.  But the softer, gentler and more feminine side of the collection showed up with beaded fringed jacket and dresses. Dresses were softly draped. Feathers decorated most of the oufits, which gave it a more warrior-look:  Demeulemeester stuck raven-black feathers into wide cartridge-pleated straps, like bullet belts.

Zac Posen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Oprah Winfrey wore one of his dresses to the Oscars this week, so regardless of any critics that will follow after his show Zac Posen must be in a good mood.

Today he presented his new collection in the basement of Palais de Tokyo. The show area was a simple, bleak room, but the clothes made up for the non-exciting space.

Posen’s models (wearing bright eye shadow) looked slim and lean in their silhouette accentuating, wool dresses. Even Crystal Renn appeared slimmer in her black dress with low V-line and strong shoulders.

The short, straight pants looked good on the girls, yet might not look as flattering on a woman with a more average size and length.

Shades of cobalt blue, teal, rose blush and silver were perfect for winter, but didn’t necessarily belong together in one collection.

A few peplum jackets and fur coats gave the collection some edge and overall it was a great collection for women of many different sizes and ages. Or as Zac called them himself: voracious, sexy, intelligent and chic women

We say: more than enough options for next big event, Oprah!

Balenciaga Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again the Balenciaga-collection was full of modern, surprising fabrics, silhouettes and clothes.

The punk spirit of last season seems gone but is replaced by a softer, more feminine theme. Soft, draped longer length skirts, knitted leather, tunics worn over pants, skinny pants with zippers at the back of the legs, soft oversized coats and comfy sweaters made a gentle look. Of course there we graphic colorblocking elements in the collection, andbesides black, white and gray Ghesquiere used orange, blue, brown and green.

Thierry Mugler Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The show of Thierry Mugler was the talk of the day, yesterday. Not only because it was Nicola Formichetti his first womenswear-collection for the house – but because Lady Gaga would also be part of the show. It’s great when a designer is supported by a star, but it also distracts you from the clothes that are actually shown. And that’s a pity. Formichetti designs for the stage, like Mugler himself used to do. These are extraordinairy clothes for extraordinairy women – popstars, clubgirls and stylists who can use some outrageous clothes.

The collection was mostly in black, white, pale beige and Mugler’s royal blue, and there were some molded plastic show pieces, as well as animal prints. The silhouette was minimal, with close-fitting dresses that sometimes looked like a second skin. I heard Lady Gaga already ordered some pieces. No wonder.

Gareth Pugh Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Gareth Pugh was back this season with a good old fashion-show. And his language didn’t change much really: black is still his friend and gothic is one of his favorite sources. But he also embraced fluidity and color.

Rochas Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Rochas’ fall collection is Marco Zanini’s definition of chic. He reconnected with his Swedish roots with charming results. The outcome became a refresher course on fashion classics. There were the boxy kick-pleat skirts and Shetland wool sweaters, oversized coats in felted wool and swingy jackets, paired with leggings or capri pants. Elements of  tailoring were sprinkled throughout, including some  blazers with hefty shoulder pads. For night, Zanini took a  turn showing black brocade cocktail dresses with exposed zippers.

Dries van Noten Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Dries van Noten presented a beautiful, restraint collection, mainly in black, white and camel with flashes of color and exciting prints. He got inspired by David Bowie and the Ballets Russes and translated that into a romantic collage of print, color and textures. And it was ultrachic. Lond coats over pants, golden skirts with black sweaters and dresses cut with intense yet visually discreet asymmetry.

Josephus Thimister Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Again Dutch designer Jospehus Thimister tried to make a comeback, after the presentation of his haute couture-collection a year ago. Hopefully he will last longer now. Thimister started his show with total black and total white outfits – suits, dresses, jumpsuits – loose, draped, for men and women. The most interesting part though was the second half of the show, where Thimister used his obsession for fabrics to present rough, tough knits and garments made of hairy felt and skin in white and grey tones.

Giorgio Armani Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The name of the Giorgio Armani fall collection was Boudoir. Maybe because of the powdery pink colors? The fluffy furs? The dreamy dresses? Anyway, the master redefined the trousers by cutting them off at the ankle and giving the room to sway. Skirts were long and flowing, dresses skimmed the figure, fluid as water, and the Armani-suit got an update: buttons at the back instead of the front.

Soft pinks were a constant, together with black , gray and brown. Every single fabric was the product of research said the program-notes: satins that seem to meld into the skin, siks, velvets and chiffon that float like a trail of perfume.

DSquared Catwalk Fashion Show Milan FW2011

The fall-collection Dean and Dan Caten sent oput this morning was the same theme their menscollection had: early American settlers mixed with tough biker chic. The basis: ultra tight jeans, leather bikerjackets or jackets with pouf peaked shoulders and nipped in the waist, white shirts, long coats and lace up boots set on iron-blades, ice-skating style.  There were also bustier tops, floor-sweeping leather dusters,  plaid hotpants, fringed blankets worn as capes or wraps and massive fur coats.

It was the styling that brought panache at the show and the collection, leaving that all behind what’s left is a jeans, a jacket and a shirt. Nothing new really.

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