Burberry Prorsum Catwalk Fashion Show SS2012

It has been a while since Burberry Prorsum designer Christopher Bailey presented such a strong collection. Less commercial and predictable, more sensitive and daring regarding the fabrics, ethnic theme, colors and prints. Of course it had this typical British/Bailey  details like the small pant with straight, narrow legs, the fitted jackets, pimped up brogues, the old fashioned cardigans and of course a large variety of coats. Those coats where the main part of the collection, but the accents made the difference: the collars in multi-colored patterns or fluffy fur. Funny and delightful were the (golf)shoes with thick cork-soles and bright colorful details, the knitted sweaters, the shirts and pants in African inspired patterns (the ones Mandela likes) or ikats and the colors which moved between navy-blue to mustard, yellow, burnt orange and beige.

It sure will let the sun come out on a rainy day.

Watch the show here

Ermenegildo Zegna Catwalk Fashion Show Milan SS2012

What better way to start the Milan Fashion Week than with Ermenegildo Zegna. At it’s Milan based headquarters the fresh fashion crowd gathered for the presentation of Zegna’s new spring/summer collection.

The collection had a very airy vibe to it. Pale shades, light fabrics and smooth styling. Many of Zegna’s boys were dressed impeccably from head to toe; tight linen jacket, slightly cropped linen pants, a nice shirt, a small tie, a light colored pair of shoes and an impressive man-bag to top it off.

Some of the more relaxed looks contained shorts (right above the knee), relaxed sweaters, comfy leather flip flops and shiny parka’s all in faded shades of grey, sand, beige, lavender, taupe, bole and green.

The sportive jackets (one with a hood, the other with lots of pockets) and one knitted cardigan gave the collection a nice twist. The subtle two-tones on a suede jacket and a shirt fit the collection just fine. And the backpacks, classic sunnies, and chic scarfs were the perfect accessories.

There were no shocking surprises in the show, but Zegna did what so many men love about the brand; it presented cool, modern, comfortable looks. Clothes in which you can seal a major business deal as well as have some great family lunch.

 

 

Fashionclash, this was saturday

The second day of Fashionclash was reserved for three long shows from all kinds of designers, from expertimental hairpieces to perfect men’s shirts. Highlights of the evening were the collections of Delikatessen, Femke Agema, Angelo van Mol, Diana Tax en Swantje Langeheine.

Christophe Decarnin leaves Balmain

Balmain is parting ways with Christophe Decarnin, the designer who transformed the dusty old fashion house into a red hot label, coveted by jet-set party girls worldwide. The Paris-based house made the announcement Wednesday, but did not give any details about the reasons behind the decision.
Rumors about Decarnin’s health have swirled since the shy designer failed to appear for a bow after his fall-winter 2011-12 ready-to-wear show last month. At the time, a spokesman for the house dismissed rumors that he was in a mental hospital, saying that he was resting on doctor’s orders.

Decarnin, the mastermind behind Balmain’s now-hallmark peaked-shouldered jackets and ultra-minidresses, joined Balmain in 2005. He came out of nowhere to head the house and with every collection he did for Balmain, sales doubled.  So who and what did Decarnin have to thank for all the success?

– The supercool girls. Balmain has become the label of the supercool girls. The girls in London and Paris who work as assistants at fashion magazines, design studios and P.R. firms, or who have some terrific family-tree connections they swing from. They’re 21 or 22 years old.  Julia Restoin Roitfeld wears Balmain. So does Charlotte Casiraghi, a daughter of Princess Caroline.

– French Vogue. French Vogue has had a lot to do with Decarnin’s success. He said himself in an interview with NY Times. Roitfeld and her daughter wore Balmain to the Cannes Film Festival. And Roitfeld and her lieutenants Emmanuelle Alt and Marie-Amélie Sauvé — have taken this relatively isolated man and molded him in the image of French Vogue.

– France. The clothes are unmistakenly French. Or like Cathy Horyn of the NY Times put it: “If I see young Bardots and Birkins bobbing around St.-Tropez half naked, I’ve seen precisely what he wants me to see. In their cut and fit, in their energy and implacably dirty sex appeal, these clothes could not have come from anywhere else but France — and not even France but Paris.”

– The sky-high prices. A pair of jeans or a cotton T-shirt cost about a 1000 euro, while a beaded jacket can cost more than 10.000 euro. It’s almost offensive. Decarnin said the prices reflect the quality of workmanship and fabrics, as well as the company’s limited structure. But those high prices might also be part of the message: my stuff costs a lot.

But why did it took so long to become successful? According to Emanuelle Alt – a long time fan and stylist of his shows – Decarnin has the talent, but is too shy.  “If you always stay in the shadows and don’t have the connections, it’s more difficult. Some people have a lot less talent, but they push themselves and go out and meet people.’’ Decarnin said he never goes to clubs.

Well, fashion in the street owns a lot to his trashy collections. Looking back, you see the streetwise girls took his punky, rock chick-style, with skinny jeans, T-shirts en fringed boots. Also: the revival of the strong shoulder and the fitted jacket. Even the long, bohemian flowerdresses he did in one of his early collections dominate the coming summer-fashion – although we have to thank Dolce & Gabbana for that too.

Watch a video about the last collection of Christophe Decarnin for Balmain:

Miu Miu Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The Miu Miu show was about Modern Glamour according to Miucca Prada. The glamour of  discreet dresses, with wide shoulders, sometimes bulked up with fur and decorated with glittering flora and fauna. The sparkle was matched by glittering shoes.

Louis Vuitton Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

Well, that was quite a show at Louis Vuitton this morning. Marc Jacobs was in the mood for some strong mistresses. The inspiration seem to come from the movie Night Porter. But according to Marc Jacobs explanation the inspiration came form the obsession people have for Loui Vuitton-bags etc. “The definition is an unreasonable obsession with objects or things. Which is sometimes Vuitton bags” he told WWD.

So it was extravagance to the max, with an 18-karat gold handbag cuffed to a girl’s wrist. There was a retro, hotel-inspired elevator bank that rose from the floor below and were the models started out. Almost everyone carried bags, not all in gold, but in python, harlequin-cut shearling, embroidered monogram rubber.
Python came lacquered; fake fur, waxed; guipure lace, made to look like plastic. There was lots of see through, and also  rubberized, plasticized and waxed fabrics with police-hats, silk-stockings, jodhpurs. But also more wearable clothes like  tweed coats and jackets taken from men’s classics which were reshaped into hourglasses and sleek sweaters.

Alexander McQueen Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The Alexander McQueen-collection was an ode to The Ice Queen and her Court. Sarah Burton – who’s talent and character keeps the McQueen-house alive and kicking – gave her heroines a colorless faces and small, metal-covered heads.  She build the collection slowly, using white, black and lilac and a very McQueen silhouette. It was molded, strong, and sometimes fitted like a harness. To avoid a too tough and edgy impression Burton tempered it wit hand-made silk and wool tweeds with litlle pieces of  mink and fox.

Other beautiful fabrics were checked and studded velvets and organza, and really stunning were  two dresses with body’s  made entirely from mosaics of broken bone china plates. The evening gowns were just breathtaking.

Valentino Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The new Valentino is not red anymore, but a variation on nudes and blushes, a fitted dress with flared skirt and long sleeves, sometimes short, sometimes longer.
The fall-collection looked pretty and ladylike, wearable, cleaner and also sportier. There was a Sixties cut in the dresses,  jackets and swingy skirts but more casual. Designers Chiuri and Piccioli introduced also deeper colors, like navy and oxblood on fur coats and leather trench-coats. The sheer silk tops,  pleated skirts and long, slim evening-gowns were done in lighter colors and fabrics.

Chanel Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

The Chanel-show and -collection gave the audience a post-apocalyptic feeling. The smoking lava, the gray and black painting and music by The Cure all added this dark touch to the clothes.

Yves St. Laurent Catwalk Fashion Show Paris FW2011

That was a clear collection Stefano Pilati presented for Yves St. Laurent. He opened with Prince of Wales-checks neatly tailored into coats, capes and suits. Jackets were mixed with pleated miniskirts and drop-waist dresses. One was done in patent leather with a cocoon back and a checked skirt with a blue hem. This collection didn’t refer to Mod or schoolgirls as we’ve seen in other collections. This was for grown up women. Accessories added the right touch: chain chokers and suede laced up boots.

The checks came back in the whole collection, sometimes blown up and even with degradé-effect on fur.  The second part of the show was about texture: dots punched out of patent leather tunics with different densities of tweed mixed in. It all culminated in a run of white silk crepe evening wear: fluid jumpsuits with halter necks and trompe l’oeil bustiers, ruffle collared backless dresses belted in more gold and one huge white marabou jacket to match.

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