Comme des Garcons Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

In a season with an overload of prints and color  Rei Kawakubo decided to go with pure white. “White drama” was her description of her spring collection, which opened with an ivory satin long-sleeved dress, straight at front and a full bouffant skirt in the back. The model, veiled and with a high white headpiece had her hands folded in front and tied together at the wrists with a big bow.

The rest of the show all dresses were white and all models looked like prisoners in skirts like padded cages and capes done in grand couture shapes but no armholes. Some dresses were tight and completely restrictive. This was a true Kawakubo-collection: provocative, beautiful and sometimes shocking.

Junya Watanabe Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Leather bolero’s with ruffled sleeves probably are the most outspoken designs we’ve seen in Paris so far. Watanabe made them his subversive statement pieces in blue, red and black. He showed them with summer dresses and scary hat pieces made out of feathers.

Those traditionally embroidered summer dresses, which had a vintage feeling to them, were the key items of the collection. They came by, combined with a sheer bomber jacket, a black parka, a tulle skirt, half a trench coat and a trench cape. Items which gave the collection Watanabe’s personal touch.

Not a fan of those half trench coats? If you’d skip the bizarre styling, a collection full of pretty, original and wearable dresses would maintain. So whether you’re an edgy kinda girl or you just wanna play it safe, for summer 2012 you can go both ways with Watanabe.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Seeing a nice outfit you’d like to buy? Just write down the number the model was holding. The Jean Paul Gaultier show went on like shows back in the days; narration in French and English and models holding cards with look numbers on it. They even got dressed where everyone could see them; at the backdrop of the show.

The collection was signature JPG; trench coats, stripes and lingerie. This time he made many of his looks oversize with flare maxi-lengths.

The pieces all had a lot going. Never was a pair of pants just a pair of pants. JPG added unexpected (but fun) details to every look, like pockets, slits, cutouts, draping, sheerness and asymmetry. Not to mention the extreme accessories (nose piercings, multiple earrings, necklaces and bracelets with black pearls and crosses and tattoos.

It was the grungiest JPG collection we’ve seen in a long time, but we kinda liked it.

Viktor & Rolf catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The opening of the Viktor & Rolf show, today at the Jardin de Tuileries in Paris. The two French singers The Brigittes performed during the show in a gigantic tulle skirt.

 

Haider Ackermann Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Haider Ackermann proved once again he’s a true master in choosing strong, bold colors, picking luxurious fabrics and mix this  into a graceful, powerful an dazzling collection. His ss2012-collection is about ‘rockabilly barons’ and – so it seemed – his own personal style in an exaggerated way, looking at the and the wide drop-crotch pants that tapered.

The cut was that of traditional menswear, but the fabrics were not. Thick silk and brocades came in beautiful colors, like deep purple, crystal blue and magenta. The lacing in gold and silver gave it an iridescent glow. Sheer silk, used for draped veils and skirts added drama while paisleys and madras added a touch of ethnic.

Lanvin Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

You need a genius designer like Alber Elbaz to transform the cut of a jogging suit into a powerful chic womenswear-collection. And so he did for Lanvin ss2012. On the runway appeared T-shirts, pencil skirts and loose shirtdresses,  stripped-down but powerful chic. Elbaz adopted the idea of comfy separates and sportiness for this collection. And how! Track pants ( with side stripes), were anything but casual with sexy slits. A white T-shirt had special, structured sleeves. And the stretch scuba material typical of athletic wear was transformed into tight skirts.

There was a definite Eighties vibe to this glamorous streetwear, not in the least because of the mega jewels — crystal crosses and gold chokers.  Some suits were done in green and black snake prints, which, in combination with the soft pleated dresses held with safety pins, reminded of  vintage Versace.

Christian Dior Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

The house of Christian Dior is still in transition. And while they are in this vacuum, the only thing the design-team can do is designing commercial stuff. The loyal customer still wants to buy new clothes, no?

Bill Gaytten showed a new, subtle version of the Bar jacket with a wide neckline and more streamlined silhouette. The collection never went to the extremes. The jacket was worn over organza blouses and bubble skirts done in airy fabrics. It looked pretty and feminine in pale colors as well as a few shots of red. The color was a light contrast to the graphic black-and-white check motif and geometric embroideries on shirts and dresses. For evening, it was a steady stream of filmy silks, plied with tulle and lace.

A.F. Vandevorst Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Kenya was the big inspiration for A.F. Vandevorst’s spring collection. The designers felt inspired by special African tribes to design unconventional clothes with even crazier accessories and hat pieces.

Their asymmetric looks were layered, fringed, tassled and embroidered to make sure they kept our attention. Military references were placed chests and shoulders.

A color palette of black, deep blue, red and camel didn’t feel very spring like, but the beautiful earthy toned paisley prints sure made up for that.

Headbands and extravagant Mohawk headpieces gave the collection even more character.

Welcome to Vandevorst’s warrior jungle!

Nina Ricci Catwalk Fashion Show Paris ss2012

Peter Copping presented and very chic and very French collection at Nina Ricci. But is was also charming and flirting with that typical Sixties haute couture vibe. The silhouette was curvy, the clothes bejeweled and the straw cage hats added an elegant touch.  Starting with constructed lingerie, Copping showed suited looks and dresses, both with full skirts and an hourglass silhouette, in laces, cloqués and printed jacquards. He embellished with delicate patchworks and encrustations of high-sparkle embroideries.

The prints were definitely retro, since the came from the archive of Zina de Plagny,  who’d done a lot of work for the house founder.

Ann Demeulemeester Catwalk Fashion Show Paris SS2012

Today Ann Demeulemeester presented us with some witches. All of them were dressed in black, white or a mix of both. Half of them had leather floppy hats on, the other half wore their hair stuck to their heads in a creepy kind of way, like they’d just crawled out of a swamp.

Yet no matter how Gothic and spooky their appearances looked, there was still a beautiful side to the collection. These were good witches in airy, sheer designs with their boobs on display. They showed their love for long silhouettes, tassels floral details, loose knitwear and the ‘color’ black.

Like a true Demeulemeester collection there was not a real color in sight. Yet those cream and white shades and the degrade pieces made sure there was enough variation.

Many fashion fans already claimed this collection as the best of the season and we must agree. Even without the bright shades, the pastels, the floral prints, the bikini’s and the flirty dresses Ann Demeulemeester showed a killer spring collection.

Watch the video of the show below

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